Am I insane? Carby B3 W/Weber + Rear Turbo

[drumnerd33]

I did a ton of research on boost with a Weber carb... Can't remember all of it now though... LOL. Why do you think the money goes down the drain with nitrous? It's actually not expensive... I added up the cost of turbo vs supercharger vs nitrous. Obviously the install cost on nitrous is wayyyy cheaper, then a bottle last you a long time on a festy because you can't jet the nitrous super high and the refills are only like 40 bucks... It's like filling a regular cars gas tank. If you used your nitrous a lot on the highway and to beat honduhhhs it should easily last a month or even 2 months. If you used it sparingly then you could easily get 3-4 months

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk

[drumnerd33]

Basically if you take the install price of each power adder then take the money saved with nitrous, and divide that into bottle fills... On average you will have 2 or more years of nitrous with the money saved.

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk

[Spike]

So many choices. I have done a fair amount of research on turbos, literally zip on nitrous. I originally planned on boosting the B8 in the '88.. if/when it ever gets finished. I shall look up more on nitrous tomorrow.. but the very, very, very minimum searching I've done so far just makes the setup look expensive for the initial system.

I'd bet doing a homebrew setup would be a lot less than I'm seeing (people did it cheaply on Chevys in the 60s, why not cheaply on Festivas in the 2010s? :p), so I shall be checking into it over the next few days. Turbo-carb is still in my mind, though. Kinda looking over the carbed Miatas some people have, and wanting to carb a B8/BP if it's even possible haha. I dunno if those can even run without ECU like the B3/B6 can.

As you can see, I'm researching a lot of subjects! :p

[drumnerd33]

It's good to do a lot of research, so continue. A basic explanation of nitrous is nitrous is n2o so 2 oxygen molecules to 1 nitrogen molecule. So when you inject nitrous you get double the oxygen... So essentially the same as turbo or supercharger only your adding extra air through a chemical process instead of pushing more in with a compressor. The other thing you get is a cooling effect which is also good. So the 2 different nitrous systems are dry and wet, dry you inject nitrous only and wet you inject nitrous and fuel. Dry system you have to trick the pressure regulator to add more fuel when you inject, with a wet system you are adding the fuel and nitrous together. An average wet system will run you around 600 bucks, but there is a few safety add on's I would suggest. First of all always use a wide open throttle switch instead of a push button so the nitrous only injects when the pedal is on the floor. Second is a window switch, a window switch will only inject at a set rpm and shut off at a high rpm... So you can set it to start @ 3000 rpm and stop @ 5000 rpm this is to keep from damaging your engine. Third is a good idea also, fuel pressure switch, you put this on your fuel line for the nitrous so that if you don't have fuel pressure it won't inject the nitrous, if you inject the nitrous and not fuel you go into an extreme lean condition and damage the motor.

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk

[eurotiva]

Nitrous is performance, with a payment.

I used to run it on my Festiva( &9 other cars before that) before I learned about turbos.

You'd be surprised how fast a bottle gets out of it's "optimal pressures". I know bottle heater etc...

Mine was a "50" shot, and it calculated out to 10~12 minutes of spray. At 15 seconds at a time or so it goes quick.

Another inconvenience is having the bottle filled. It's not a stop and go kinda deal.

I ended up going thru two bottles a week, and figured out that a turbo never runs out.

Most racing establishments besides a drag strip won't let you carry around a 25lb metal bottle that's at 1000 psi.

Cheap initial cost, and quick to install and be running though

[jdm19942]

It's good to do a lot of research, so continue. A basic explanation of nitrous is nitrous is n2o so 2 oxygen molecules to 1 nitrogen molecule. So when you inject nitrous you get double the oxygen... So essentially the same as turbo or supercharger only your adding extra air through a chemical process instead of pushing more in with a compressor. The other thing you get is a cooling effect which is also good. So the 2 different nitrous systems are dry and wet, dry you inject nitrous only and wet you inject nitrous and fuel. Dry system you have to trick the pressure regulator to add more fuel when you inject, with a wet system you are adding the fuel and nitrous together. An average wet system will run you around 600 bucks, but there is a few safety add on's I would suggest. First of all always use a wide open throttle switch instead of a push button so the nitrous only injects when the pedal is on the floor. Second is a window switch, a window switch will only inject at a set rpm and shut off at a high rpm... So you can set it to start @ 3000 rpm and stop @ 5000 rpm this is to keep from damaging your engine. Third is a good idea also, fuel pressure switch, you put this on your fuel line for the nitrous so that if you don't have fuel pressure it won't inject the nitrous, if you inject the nitrous and not fuel you go into an extreme lean condition and damage the motor.

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk

I pretty sure that would mean there is two nitrogen molecules to one oxygen.

[sketchman]

^Yes. N2O is 2 nitrogen to 1 oxygen.

[drumnerd33]

Oops... :-) yes your correct it's 2 nitrogen... LOL but still that is the way it works.

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk

[drumnerd33]

Turbo is the most efficient power adder... But not on a carb, so it all really depends on what the car is used for... If you are going to use it to race all the time then yes a turbo would be better and you wouldn't care about the mpg. If you want it as a daily driver and just want the extra oomph when somebody wants to race or on the weekends... Nitrous isn't a bad deal.

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk

[drumnerd33]

Also what I remember from researching boosting on a Weber, was you want the black float not the brass one (it will collapse), there is a hole you have to plug, and there was something about adding a line so that the boost didn't stop the flow of gas... Can't remember what it was though.

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk

[drumnerd33]

Here is a guy doing it now...

http://www.rx7club.com/old-school-other-rotary-63/boost-prepping-ida-weber-1049699/

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk

[drumnerd33]

You know you got me researching the blow through on a weber again... and now im reconsidering.... would be nice to talk to someone and see what they had to tune the carb to for boost, i know that a carb adds fuel based on air flow so to an extent you get the extra fuel when you add boost... but my original understanding was that you still end up tuning rich, but how rich? Also i would only want around 8psi max with my setup.

[bhazard]

Dickmeyer did it.......

[Rocketman]

From my researching back in the day you can indeed get a blow-through carb tuned optimally for daily street use, but it takes a bit of know-how. I don't posses it personally, I have some experience with carbs but nothing on a boosted application.

The very basics of boosting a carb = you'll have to add a vac/boost line to the float chamber so that it gets pressurized the same as the barrels - this means there's no net boost across the venturis. You won't be pushing or pulling the fuel away.

Draw through carbs from my understanding are easier to tune, but I've heard require special turbo seals? And intercooling is kind of a no-no, if you get a backfire your intake tract is a bomb Fuel puddling in the intake is an issue, too I think.

[1chrisapple]

check this out looks easy enough

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXf_VG2Ch3A