Egr delete

[sketchman]

That's awesome!

[bhearts]

At least you're being scientific about it and measuring your vacuum aka engine load gauge.

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[sketchman]

This should do it. The blue parts are flexible membranes/vacuum diaphragms. The gray parts are steel discs or otherwise obvious stuff like the adjusting screw and jam nut on top of the spring to adjust off vacuum fluid pressure. And the black is the body of the thing and the spring.

You'd set full load (no vacuum) pressure with the screw/bolt on top. Then the upper most nipple would be for vacuum connection. The bottom most nipple is fluid in. The one just above it pointed to the side is fluid out. The ratio of the effect the vacuum has on fluid pressure can be altered by using different sized disc on top of the biggest diaphragm. The break in the black body to the left is a vent to atmosphere.

Remember this is just a diagram to explain how it should work. Modeled after a mixture of a 1:1 FPR and a 12:1 FMU.

[Spike]

^The reason I like this is it works manually. I'm not much a fan of wiring and electric pumps.

[getnpsi]

A functioning egr doesn't hurt performance. None of the oem intake piping is resticted on a 1.3.
Personally I'd want to double the egr flow at light throttle and 5th gear situations via 5th gear switch relayed into the oem system so it only comes on when I don't mind if it is.

[sketchman]

If you could just lean it out and pad the CC with water vapor, though, it'd be a much nicer end result. Cleaner too. EGRs are intake tract nastificators.

[bhearts]

Have you never peeked down one of your intake runners. It's covered in egr gunk, which is textured. A polishing of the intake track has shown improvements in flow, so if we can eliminate the gunk egr and replace it with mist/ steam then we could have gorgeous steam cleaned combustion chambers also. Think about how easy water is to control. Want more o2 displacement? Use more water. Steam also acts like a conductive in the cylinder which helps spark reach the fuel faster,

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[Spike]

New question. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge, and all this is on an '89 with Weber and stock manual pump. I read earlier about setting the water pressure in the 100psi range, or about 1 part water, 4 parts fuel.

Isn't the stock fuel pump like 4 or 8psi or something like that? I would assume 100psi is only the pressure of the water, not the amount entering the engine... I dunno, I've gotten myself all confused.

What I'm trying to do is use sketchman's math skillz. I'ma go all-out on this, so long as I can keep it safe and cheap.

EDIT:

Found where I'm wrong, NOT 100psi.

100cc.

Brainfart.

[sketchman]

How much fluid pressure equals how much flow will be determined by whatever nozzle you use, so there's no way to know till you pick that part.

You need to know how much your nozzle flows at XX pressure then work from there. I'd find the finest misting nozzle you can and then just play with different pressures to see how much it flows. You can do a crude flow test with a graduated container and a timed flow into it at different pressures to figure out what your setup will do. Then adjust your full load pressure and play with different size discs and/or use a bleed valve (manual boost controller) in the vac line to fine tune your flow rate.

I'm getting itchy about doing this too now. But I have so many things on the list as it is. Never enough time/money.

EDITED: After I saw your edit.

[Spike]

Okay okay, I understand now.

Driving about 120 miles total today + already have 40 miles this tank. I'll fill up and see what happens (I've only been getting 30-31 with the Weber this winter, so anything is better than that).

[bhearts]

There's seriously got to be a fmu styled vacuum pressure regulator in the world. It's a brilliant thing to do. Unless it's seriously impossible to make.

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[Spike]

I found something while perusing the interwebz.

What's a "Hobbs Switch"? It's supposed to be used for boost, to turn on a second fuel pump when the switch 'senses a specific psi of pressure/boost'. Couldn't this be used to switch on say.. an aquarium pump instead? Assuming you could figure the exact amount of water needed at say.. 10" down to 0"/WOT, would it be possible to set the switch up in this way?

I'm just throwing this out there. I might not fully understand what a Hobbs Switch does.

[getnpsi]

If a engine pings under slight throttle with too much egr, then you need to retard the timing way back, to be down on power on purpose again. It's going to cost a few hundred bucks for parts and equipment but the education and the threshold that is effective is worth the real world and real-time education.

MSD ignition with timing retard dial...does the festy/b6/b8 ecu work with this? and the carby's?
MPGuino with both injector pulse and VSS data-->real time fuel consumption independant of air flow tricks and false readings.
Monitor how you do with two different gearsets...for example a .7xx overdrive with no mods vs a .8xx overdrive with less timing, more rpm, but a significant addition of egr

Once that hard data is realized, you can add more addons like different cooling methods, fuel blends in tank or added thru plenum etc to get rid of ping and bring timing curves back to oem ranges.

[sketchman]

You could make a vacuum switch easily enough. Sure. But you need adjustable-ness (on the fly) to follow the level of vacuum in the manifold with the right amount of water/meth mix. That would be cool to incorporate into the design though. Instead of the pump running all the time you could have it shut off under full vacuum. Then turn on once vacuum starts to diminish when the flow is needed.

But I don't see how that would give you adjustable flow. You'd still need some kind of adaptive controller to directly change flow rate. Unless you want to do several pumps and several switches all tuned to different vacuum levels. But that sounds overly complicated and still wouldn't give you the precision of something just controlling flow directly, I don't think. A vacuum switch could be made easily from some PVC pipe, some kind of diaphragm (I would probably try making my own from RTV or other silicone and wax paper), and metal contacts to do the switching. Might need a spring too to get the trigger vacuum level right. But still a simple thing to do.

[bhearts]

I have a pulse width modulated controller. It was designed to operate a nitrous solenoid. This device uses a potentiometer to set its duty cycle. I'm going to see about rigging up another "pot" (that's what we call potentiometer in electronics land) to my throttle body. So when the throttle is open more this driver can turn the pump on more. Butttt... I'm not going to be doing this until I get my new intake manifold made. Cause I don't want to do it twice

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