Cruise control

[bravekozak]

I tapped into vacuum for the vacuum ball at the idle up solenoid. I just used the plastic tee provided in the Ford kit. The palnuts for the brake safety valve are something else to try and thread on while holding it in the install poosition. I have decided to try some jam nuts from eBay instead. The Ford thread is imperial. 5/8-18. Let's just say there is barely enough vacuum hose from the actuator to the brake safety valve.

[bravekozak]

I bought two thin walled aluminum jan nuts instead.
Today I tackled wiring up the cruise computer to the combination switch.
First the wiring harness in the Festiva cruise kit is very short. Second it would be a shame to cut the wires off of a brand new orange lettered cruise stalk, just because I could not find the special spring contact terminals that Ford used for their push on cruise computer connectors.
Solution: I chopped the wiring harness off the skinny white lettered Tempo/Topaz cruise stalk that I got on the bay for $12. It is over a foot longer and has one extra wire + the wires are in a different order than the Festiva kit. After popping out three wires and swapping two I installed it into the original 89 harness. The length is just right. The cruise computer is bolted exactly where the ECA used to be.

[bravekozak]

I took the left defrost duct out of the way to measure and make a bracket for the actuator cable. The link clip went on fine. There is no way the bracket pictured in the factory manual will fit between the steering column support bracket and the pancake protrusion. I loosened the bolt on the brake/clutch pedal support bolt. The metal bracket can be slipped under nicely. I depressed the gas pedal all the way to check the orientation as well as how far back the end of the actuator cable has to be. It has to be pointing upwards on an angle, much farther back and lower than the brake/clutch bolt.

[bravekozak]

The proper search was "shorten speedometer cable".
I found Bob's Speedometer.
If Bob can't shorten my speedometer cable by 3" and crimp on a standard 5/8"-18 speedo connector then nobody can.
I will let everyone know if the operation is successful or not.
Besides, the original connector is really grubby.

[bravekozak]

Today I did the old switcheroo. I popped out all of the wires from the 89 upper to main wiring harness. I substituted a 91 EGI connector (thanks to 1990new) which now gives me room for three extra 18 ga. terminals plus three large spade 14 ga. terminals. Why bother? I want the installation to look stock and also be safe. The small wires will be for power antenna (from dash switch down to main harness and out just past the firewall into the fender with a pigtail. Cruise switch (pigtail in between power mirror and light control dimmer switch) down to cruise computer. 14 ga. power from fuse block to power window switch, 14 ga. power from fuse block to three power door lock relays. 14 ga. down to fuel door popper.
The 14 ga. wiring for the rear hatch actuator will go down the right side. I have drilled and pulled wire all the way into the hatch already. The hole saw size for the body hole was 13/16" for a perfect fit of the rubber tube guide (thanks again to 1990 new for getting this for me). There is no room to pull any more wires on the left side hatch.

[Twistiva]

Today I did the old switcheroo. I popped out all of the wires from the 89 upper to main wiring harness. I substituted a 91 EGI connector (thanks to 1990new) which now gives me room for three extra 18 ga. terminals plus three large spade 14 ga. terminals. Why bother? I want the installation to look stock and also be safe. The small wires will be for power antenna (from dash switch down to main harness and out just past the firewall into the fender with a pigtail. Cruise switch (pigtail in between power mirror and light control dimmer switch) down to cruise computer. 14 ga. power from fuse block to power window switch, 14 ga. power from fuse block to three power door lock relays. 14 ga. down to fuel door popper.
The 14 ga. wiring for the rear hatch actuator will go down the right side. I have drilled and pulled wire all the way into the hatch already. The hole saw size for the body hole was 13/16" for a perfect fit of the rubber tube guide (thanks again to 1990 new for getting this for me). There is no room to pull any more wires on the left side hatch.

Holy smokes, Brave!.....you are a Festiva god. I'm a simple man: trees get big, pull back on the stick. Trees need to go by faster, push forward on the throttle. Guys like you amaze me....

Good luck with your cruise control install! :-)

[bravekozak]

F3, After looking at your picture in post #94, I determined that E2FZ-9A820-B was the same part. I was surprised that my $18 offer was automatically accepted ( I thought $15 would be insulting, but I bet that's what it was). What I don't do to complete the kit.

[bravekozak]

I got my speedometer cable returned from Bob's Speedometer.
Here is a pic of the entire cable.
Here is a closeup of the crimped insert.
I decided to have the stock cable cut, rather than screw directly onto the speedometer gear.
The cable spins fine.
I left an extra inch. Now it won't be so dificult to reach the tach.
The tach speedo cable is slightly longer than the non-tach cable.

[1chrisapple]

http://imgur.com/a/KCedB

jut thought this would be more helpful than words.the only exception is that the blue and red wire from the tracer stalk go to the green wire on the rostra unit.

[1chrisapple]

ok so I have another question brave I installed the rostra cruise and am wondering. intstead of getting a cable made.could I use the kia rio abs sensor.as I have rio front swap.

[bravekozak]

The way the magnets work in the speed sensor is identical to the way the magnets work in the natural gas meter of your home. The more little magnets, the greater the precision, or the higher the resolution. There is one stationary magnet that spins inside a field of other magnets arranged in a circle. There is an electrical pulse that relates the interval frequency to a set speed for the computer brain. It would try to maintain that pulse frequency.
I am unsure of how the ABS sensor works. I thought it only looked for decelerations. Good luck.

[Oren09]

If I remember correctly, most ABS sensors aren't magnetic. They are either hall effect sensors using powered transistors and a toothed gear or they can be acoustic/optical and use a slotted ring.

The ABS computer compares sensor inputs for all wheels and looks for one or two wheels moving faster or slower than the others and modulates braking and or engine power (torque vectoring) accordingly.

The simplest way to do cruise speed sensing is probably using the speedometer cable as that will usually turn consistently and not be affected by curves (outside wheel spinning faster than inside).

[getnpsi]

If you are members of ecomodder.com have you seen the guy hook CC up to an independent map sensor so it follows load not a specific speed? Id love to do one up like that...upand down arrows still work to go faster or slower.

[1chrisapple]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-NOS-OEM-Vehicle-Speed-Sensor-Part-D9AZ-9E731-A-/261007652674?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc544b742&vxp=mtr

is this the correct speed sensor for the festiva.will it work with the factory speedo cable

[bravekozak]

The Festiva speedometer gear is non-metric 5/8"-18 thread. I do not recognize that sensor. D9 means it's from 1979. The part number and link for the factory speed sensor is in post #28 of this thread. I believe they are still available. Be sure to hover to find the links. The blue link highlighting was turned off after the site software upgrade.