Power window upgrade

[Bert]

Windows should be circuit breakered in areas where it might freeze. Power antennae, and wipers
would be a good idea to have on circuit breakers as well.

I have to say this is one hugely ambitious project.
What I enjoy about Festys is that I can turn the crank on the passenger side without leaving the driver's seat. Name me another car that you can do that with.
Movin's caution about preparing against low temperatures, freezing rain and or ice is an extremely good one. There were lots of stories up here 20 years ago of failed power windows at -20, out on the highway. And very few of these conversations were about windows that wouldn't open, mostly about windows that wouldn't close and then about ensuing snow storms, overnight cats moving in, duct tape and shredded garbage bags etc etc before the expensive repairs were effected.

[bravekozak]

Just a note to anyone else attempting to install a single 13 terminal connector in place of the two separate connectors.
The oval for pushing the connector through the body is very small. I had to cut the plastic mounting slides on both sides of my connectors in order to force them through the hole. I do not ever want to take them off. Friction fit. Stay with two separate connectors.

[Movin]

Windows should be circuit breakered in areas where it might freeze. Power antennae, and wipers
would be a good idea to have on circuit breakers as well.

[bravekozak]

I am going to fuse the power windows separately. I am also going to have a separate circuit for my power door locks. I want to have the new fuses clearly identified. I got a Kia Pride fuse block from Germany. I will have to add a couple of terminals for the two additional circuits and simply move a few wires around when I plug them from one block to the other (one at a time, so that I don't get mixed up). The top of the Pride fuse block sits a little closer to the fuse access door. The Festiva block has longer mounting arms.

[bravekozak]

I crimped the terminals on.

I pushed the terminals into the connector.

13 wires is the maximum you can push through the door grommet.

Driver's door harness ready. Now for the passenger door.

[bravekozak]

rewire

The Mazda MPV harness had 13 wires. I got 13 wire connectors and pins from Eastern Beaver in Japan. The stock Festiva power mirror door grommets are too small to hold 13 wires. I had to use the European Kia Pride grommets. Also, I couldn't even release one terminal from the stock connector, so I had no choice but to cut it off. I took a picture just prior to wrapping the wire between the door grommets with Polyken. After that I will strip and crimp on the new terminals prior to inserting them into the new connector.
The goal is to have wiring for door speakers, power locks, power mirrors, power windows and door lights. As I stated previously, The dash section of the Mazda MPV harness is too long for the Festiva. I will cut it shorter and move the power lock relay from the right side to the left side Festiva relay tree.

[bravekozak]

Thanks Twistiva. I have the power windows installed. I'm just getting the wiring harness in place. I will test my wiring with the door actuators before installing it in each door. I will prove the Viper remote progressive lock fuctionality prior to installing the dash.

Please check to make sure there are no errors in the Kia Pride power window wiring diagram.

I am going with a single 14 pin connector, because of all the other goodies I'm putting in the door. Stock had a three(power mirror) and six pin connector (power window/door lock).

[Twistiva]

Dan -

Read all your posts on this thread.

You know, you are one persistent amigo! :thumbleft:

Hope it all turns out. With your tenacity I'm sure it will.

P.S. - After our joint fourgreen order you've got me thinking about a power antenna.

[bravekozak]

You have a very good memory.
I crushed the plastic handles off from three Summit Racing kits.
I'm practising for my Pride fuse block..
The spacing is 12mm on center.

[crazyrog17]

You'd mentioned something about pulling terminals out of the fuse block or terminal blocks.

That's my guess!

[bravekozak]

Okay. I have decided not to put the individual switches on both doors. I am only going to have one master switch ( located beside the power mirror switch) to open and close all three locks at the same time. I have also decided to move the power lock relay over to the relay tree on the left side. Even though the Viper has a built in lock relay, it only has a low amp output for the keychain progressive lock control. That means, I will have the Viper send a signal to the power lock relay to open only the drivers door for one push of the button. The Viper will send a signal to all locks to open on two pushes of the button. Also, all locks lock when the lock button is pushed.

I made a hand tool for my Festiva. Can anyone guess what it's for?

[bravekozak]

Here is a pic of my grey dash. It is upside down. I removed all of the ductwork for access to the wiring. The stock dash comes with large harness clips on the left and small ones on the right. I am changing all of the clips to large ones to accomodate the extra wiring for the Viper remote, power windows, power locks, door lights, dash clock, under dash lights, power antenna, door speakers, door tweeters and lighted visors. I have to swap the wiring harness from my brown dash because the blue connector to the main harness was different.

My first task will be to remove all of the black tape from the existing wiring harness, then replace the dash speaker wiring because of the previous owner stripping the wires above the connector.
I will be using split loom as a replacement. I moved two small clips to the wire guides under the top of the dash, to support the dash clock wires.

I have two wiring decisions to make. There are two empty brackets on the relay support tree. I would have to move the power window relay from the right side to the left. The other decision concerns the location of the power door lock switch(es). I am debating whether to have two separate switches on both doors, or one switch on the driver's dash.

[bravekozak]

I won an RX7 security light which I am going to use as a choke light (as you can see, I also get a bonus orange power mirror switch which I don't need). This means I will have to install power door lock switches on the doors in order to free up a factory slot. Protege door lock switches stick out too far. I am leaning towards an unsupported set.

[bravekozak]

I forgot to mention the power mirror connectors were also on both door harnesses.

[bravekozak]

harness

It took me almost two hours, but I managed to pull off the dash and door panels off of a 92 Mazda MPV van and take part of the wiring harness. Everything was extremely tight. There were a lot of screws and a lot of tape.
As you will notice in the photo, the power window relay was on the right side of the dash. The MPV harness includes, power windows, power locks, door speakers and door ajar sensor. The connectors between the dash and the doors have smaller terminals than the stock Kia Pride connector. I will use this one as a guide only. The stock Kia control switches plug right in.