Power window upgrade

[Aaronbrook37]

Here are pics of those...

I should say, it would be easy enough to integrate the switches into the dash, therefore you only need to run two wires to each door. I just find switches in the dash or center console for anything door related stupid.

Lol cool man... no sweat, it's human to disagree with others. Respect appreciated. I'll figure something out!

[crazyrog17]

I should say, it would be easy enough to integrate the switches into the dash, therefore you only need to run two wires to each door. I just find switches in the dash or center console for anything door related stupid.

Example: the door lock switch on the new Mazda 2, right in the middle... The window switches for Saturns, right in the middle...

I look at the door for that kind of stuff, haha.

[crazyrog17]

Excellent... this is what I was waiting for! What's your switch setup? I'd love to have a way to integrate something covert into the stock dash that appeared OEM... curious to what you did. For example, the two switch blanks in the gauge cluster would be perfect for this!

I used the switches that came with the kit. That's the easiest way about it because the kit came with a wiring harness that I had to run 5 wires to the driver's door and 3 wires to the passenger's door. There are three switches that are (kind of) backlit with 2 on the driver's side and one on the passenger's.

Here are pics of those...


The black housings just screw on through the door panel and wire up easily. Power goes to the driver's side, so I just used the 'power windows' terminal in the fuse panel to power them. It turns off with the ignition which is handy to turn off the illumination.

[fastivaca]

The only wire I haven't figured out is the two connector with red and green wires. I think it is for the door speaker.

Could they be from the drivers side switch?

[Aaronbrook37]

I've installed the retrofit power window kit on my girlfriend's 323. Pretty easy and a LOT less ugly than that pictured kit a bit earlier in the thread.

The motor is hidden behind the door panel and you just see a cap over where the window crank was. The switches are screwed onto the door panel. Wire to power and you're in business.

Here's a pic of the kit I've installed...


You only need two of the four parts of that kit.

Ebay seller's name is in the watermark of that picture. Good experiences with him.

Excellent... this is what I was waiting for! What's your switch setup? I'd love to have a way to integrate something covert into the stock dash that appeared OEM... curious to what you did. For example, the two switch blanks in the gauge cluster would be perfect for this!

[crazyrog17]

I've installed the retrofit power window kit on my girlfriend's 323. Pretty easy and a LOT less ugly than that pictured kit a bit earlier in the thread.

The motor is hidden behind the door panel and you just see a cap over where the window crank was. The switches are screwed onto the door panel. Wire to power and you're in business.

Here's a pic of the kit I've installed...


You only need two of the four parts of that kit.

Ebay seller's name is in the watermark of that picture. Good experiences with him.

[bravekozak]

the project continues

I would first like to thank Freshtiva for graciously allowing me to continue the power window project where he left off.
I am starting with the passenger side, because it is intact.
Here is what I did to get my window to go up under battery power:

http://bwbronze.com/festiva/passenger.jpg

Before installing the winder assembly, I scribed two lines using a straight edge to locate the third armrest hole. This is because, the doors on the North American Festivas were of the same type as Australia. They were meant to have regular armrests only and the switches were located in the lower centre console. I am installing Kia Pride armrests, I drilled a hole, and then changed it into a rectangle with a straight carbide cutter on a Dremel. The screw is long enough to reach, even though it is in a depression that is .412" deep. I will weld a small disc just to the left of the new armrest hole for extra support.

I then drilled a one inch hole for the passenger switch connector to pass through.

I removed the manual winder and installed the power winder. Notice that the holes it uses are slightly to the right of the manual winder holes.

I also had to enlarge the bottom slot for the track by about a quarter of an inch, in order to get the small bolt in.

Hooked it to a battery, and watched it go up and down (while smiling).

I have removed the door harness to add the Ford power lock wiring.
The only wire I haven't figured out is the two connector with red and green wires. I think it is for the door speaker. Anyone with a Kia electrical wiring diagram?

[CharlieZ]

There is a Oct 07 2005 posting by *mechanicaldj* that alludes to Kia Sportage window regulators. Search link:

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2116&highlight=kia+sportage+power+windows

[CharlieZ]

After market Pwr Windoze

Just as an FYI, here's some pix the after market PW kit I spoke of in an earlier post. Bought these in the late 80s from J.C. Whitney.

[elcamino1]

Fresh don't give up hope yet,I have a set of those power regulators that I might sell,remember I used protege regulators on my install,which I can still find in junkyards.

[freshtiva]

Maybe ?? The leg work would kill you. I know its possible, the passenger side works great. Im just not ready to trade practical function for novelty esp w/o replacement parts. The power windows on my Ford van havent worked for years and they are common.

[25Horseplay]

I wonder if you could fit the cable off some other Mazda in there??? Maybe??

[freshtiva]

I think my chances are Slim to none and Slim just left town. I knew it was a gamble when I bought them. This time I lose.

[packrat427]

Thats too bad

once those type of cables are kinked they usually don't wind right again .

Maybe you will come across another motor soon that will work .

[freshtiva]

I fear the dream is dead, couldnt ever get the drivers side to work. Motor clicked but would go up or down. Broke the motor down and found cable kinked up around the spool. Not sure it can be fixed as the kinked cable wont wind right and I dont think repair parts are available. Passenger side worked good. Oh well, its only time and money. I guess Ill at least install the factory tinted glass anyway. Moving on to some fog light installations now.