Installing new rear struts

[TominMO]

My bolts all say "10" on them, that's all.

Tip #1: spray some white paint into the end of the axle beam, for better light reflectivity. It probably won't stay there long, but should help a lot compared to the general blackness in there. Might be able to prep it beforehand somewhat, with a wire brush or something.

Tip #2: One good suspect for the corrosion on the captive nut is those two access holes for the bottom two nuts on the brake backing plate. Try to find some rubber covers to pop into those holes, maybe at the hardware store. Ones like the hole covers in the spare tire well.

Tip #3: I used impact sockets, to take the strain off the edges of the bolt head and thusly help prevent rounding. Thanks for the tip John.

[TominMO]

I'll do that if I can gain access through or around the "wall" Tom described that is on Aspire axle beams. I went out and looked and saw what he meant. I'll see if I can drill a one inch hole somwhere to gain access, but I don't know where until I pull out my bare axle beam from under my tarp to see.

Karl

Two possible reasons that wall is there:
1. to strengthen the axle beam; or
2. Koreans are evil.

I wonder if it's possible to get a nut into place somehow through the access holes for the lower backing plate nuts. Bubble gum on some sort of bendable material, like a coat hanger.

Edit: another idea: cut off the plate on the end of the axle beam. It appears to be there for strengthening. You can replace it with a grade 8 bolt, using three nuts to retain the reinforcing properties of the original piece. This will then give you greater access to that inner wall on the Aspire axle beam. You can then use a hole saw on it.

[Safety Guy]

Thanks for the ideas, Tom.

Karl

[TominMO]

Went out today to paint the inside of the passenger-side axle beam. I previously had bought a universal gun cleaning kit from The World of Wally ($8.00). I took one of the wire brushes for cleaning shotgun bores and screwed it onto one of the extension pieces. I then attached that to my portable drill and knocked off the loose stuff inside the axle. Then I squirted some white paint in there. Made a big difference: black reflectivity vs. white reflectivity. On the driver side I needed a flashlight to see what was going on in there. On this side there is absolutely no need for a flashlight.

[Claude]

never had problems with this recently replaced both rear struts too, pb blaster and some tlc took car of it.

[Pu241]

never had problems with this recently replaced both rear struts too, pb blaster and some tlc took car of it.

Be thankful!
That and sending money via paypal to me will continue your good fortune!

[TominMO]

never had problems with this recently replaced both rear struts too, pb blaster and some tlc took car of it.

Do they salt the roads where your car has been driven? You're lucky you had no problems with the captured nuts. My car has a little rust underneath, and both rear lower strut bolts were seized up bad. Still have to address the passenger-side bolt.

[1988redfordfestiva]

never had problems with this recently replaced both rear struts too, pb blaster and some tlc took car of it.

I've done the same thing Pb blaster and liquid wrench and they came off.
I bought my bolts and nuts from home cheapo and got KIA Rio back springs with KYB adjustable struts.

[Safety Guy]

1988redff wrote:

"I bought my bolts and nuts from home cheapo and got KIA Rio back springs with KYB adjustable struts."

Got any pictures? I'd like to see this! I've only matched Rio front struts to my Festivas. The rears looked totally different and unusable to me. What year did you get those rear springs, or shocks/struts from? This could be a big help to people!

Also, the nuts and bolts you got: did you check their strength ratings? I'd guess grades 8.8 and up, probably more like 10.9 or so would be safe. Less than 8.8 and I'd be concerned! Here's a link to a grade ratings chart from John which he posted here earlier:

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Materials-and-Grades/Bolt-Grade-Chart.aspx

Thanks,

Karl

[1988redfordfestiva]

in my last note " I bought the struts off of a 1999 or 2000 not sure its been awhile right now i have my head stuck on the body work of the car. For this weekend under the hood of the car to change the engine to FI. Then a new tank and fuel pump...

[Safety Guy]

Was it a Spectra or Sephia? Rios weren't made until model year 2001.

Karl

[TominMO]

Bolt thead pitch correction

I made a mistake in my first post in this thread. The actual thread pitch for the inner LCA bolts (and the lower rear strut bolts) is actually 10 x 1.25. The upper rear strut nuts (normal and flared) seem to be 10 x 1.5. You can either change the flare nut threads to 1.25 with a tap, or just buy another 1.25 nut (with a washer) at the hardware store or McParts store.

[xaero_81]

Ok, went for this and the head snapped right off the bolt at about...ohh....10 ft-lbs.

What now?

---bhazard

[TominMO]

Ok, went for this and the head snapped right off the bolt at about...ohh....10 ft-lbs.

What now?
---bhazard

I hacksawed my bolt off. Had to do it in three places, which sucked, but you should only have to do it twice; on both sides of the strut lower hole. Then pull the strut out, and maybe you can get the remaining bolt out of the captured nut in the axle.

To use the hacksaw, I had to take the blade off, then reassemble it inside the lower strut mount area. Do the side closest to the axle first; it might be all you need to do, to get the strut out.

[bhazard]

Eh, we just pulled my whole beam out struts and all, and swapped his in with the aspire struts on it. He's gonna be aspire swapping so the broken bolts are no big deal.