Advanced Suspension Mods

[Advancedynamix]

Do you remember the demensions on those spring hats I can make them quick next week but I don't have the springs to know lol

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

these are the rear top hats for this suspension setup. the 7mm one is the one that Charlie did and I drew based off his measurements, and the 25.4mm is the one that I did after talking with him on spring location. I believe he used steel that was hard anodized for the 7mm while the 25.4mm was made from t6 6061 and was not coated. The centering step diameter may need to be modified very slightly depending on spring rate. I believe I turned mine slightly smaller than the print and the model show. I will measure them as soon as I get the rear apart again. Just measure the true I.D. of your spring before you make them or have them made.

Here is the dropbox link to blueprints and solid model of the hats. I saved them as a generic .IGES If you want a more specific file type lmk.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h1g0e6ns29s4mjo/AADlOhzmgN4fDEOtdopU7W3Oa?dl=0

Had to dig back a little bit, but the answer was right here in this thread.
My steel hats were powder coated and the aluminum hats were hard anodized. I don't think steel can be hard anodized. I have made some which were zinc coated though, which is similar to hard anodize.

[Festiver]

Here is one of the rear spring hats that I made. The kit came with some, but I wanted lower profile ones that mated up with the stock shock bushings better. You could use an assortment of thick washers from the hardware store to do the same thing.

Here are the finished shocks
and installed

And notice the clearance! They offer 4 real inches of suspension adjustment without sacrificing tire room!

Do you remember the demensions on those spring hats I can make them quick next week but I don't have the springs to know lol

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

[Advancedynamix]

For extreme low you'll want 120lb front springs and 105lb rear.

[Mike28396]

advanceDynamix your setup is nice and low. i recently purchase a 92 and was wanting to know if i can use this setup to go as just as low in your pic: mk2 Front struts/ 150lbs 12" springs & 93vw cabriolet rear shocks/ 120 lbs 10" springs?

I'm trying to go extreme low with decent drivability. it will not see track until i swap a BP down the road.

[mikemounlio]

Ok I've read through the lot thanks Charlie and everyone for the thread! Will start putting a parts list together for my UK based pride!

Look at my thread I went throught all this and them redid it in a way that was straight to the point. I have the full how to with shopping list and bolt for bolt pictures on what to do. I got all my info from this page all credit goes to this OP. I just took out all the chatter from the page.

Anyway check it out.

[Bdonkin88]

Ok I've read through the lot thanks Charlie and everyone for the thread! Will start putting a parts list together for my UK based pride!

[Advancedynamix]

^ what he said.

I ran the Achilles at 30 hot on the track, but that's a road coarse in 95 degree dry heat. Autocross is a different ball game. You'll probably want 4 psi more in the front than the back. Don't run 15psi on the front, your too front heavy for that. It'll take some practice and testing to nail it down.

[ryanprins13]

Advanced Suspension Mods

What would be a good tire psi to start out on? on the econo tires that is.

Depends what kind of a track your on and how you wanna drive it. Im going to assume paved, so high pressure (max listed on sidewall or higher) reduces your sidewall flex and will make the centre of the tire bulge slightly. Lower pressure means you have more sidewall flex, and sidewalls arent quite the best thing to skid around corners on. but the tires heat themselves up more at lower pressure and may grip a little better. Too low and the tire can cup up a little in the middle though as opposed to bulging at high pressure. Slight though, may not make a difference on the track. Cheap tires tend to tear themselves apart, come off the bead, rip sidewalls easier at low pressure than they will burst or separate tread at high pressure.
Best bet is to try both. Find a spot with some curves or a track, try it at 50 psi, 32psi and 15 psi. See what you like. What the max rating on your tires?
Thats for cheap, high sidewall, stock tires. Low profile tires or slicks are different when it comes to pressure.
I personally keep the tires on all my vehicles at max sidewall pressure. That doesnt reduce traction much from door sticker pressure that i have noticed and gives a much better feel when driving because of the tall sidewalls. It also keeps the tires cooler and they maybe last longer as a result.

[mikemounlio]

What would be a good tire psi to start out on? on the econo tires that is.

[Advancedynamix]

0K30A34390C

[bravekozak]

Which Rio parts do I need?
Number 15, costs $25 each.

[drddan]

Get a camber gauge off ebay. You can also use a digital level if you can find a way to place it flat on the wheel face. The camber gauges are easier to use. It's a tool you'll be happy to have.
The next problem I can forsee with your setup is your car will be very unbalanced when you heat up your front tires. The difference in grip will cause the car to want to oversteer badly when driven even close to the limit. Your going to want to balance out your traction. I'd look for a set of 13x6 wheels and buy some 185/60-13 Yokahama A048r tires for the rear of your car. You don't want anything wider because the rears won't build enough heat (the back of the car is too light to utilize a wide tire). They don't sell the NT01 in a 185/60-13 in this country. The A048r is the closest match, with the Toyo R888 being your second best choice.
Ultimately, you'll really benefit from moving your engine up 2.125 inches and installing a g series transmission. Moving that engine weight forward is like entering a cheat code in a video game. The difference in corner entry speeds, high speed stability and grip are amazing. You can throw all the HP you want at this chassis, but all that HP will be useless if you can't put it to the ground at your apex. The extra pressure on the front wheels is critical.

:thumbleft:

[Advancedynamix]

Makes sense.

[mikemounlio]

I will be using my stock daily tires for now. The 205 nt01 is to much for how low i am. I dont want to have to pull the fenders to rund them. I will be going to the toyyo r888 in their 185 14 size. But that is in some time. Right now i need to get the car going again.

[Advancedynamix]

Get a camber gauge off ebay. You can also use a digital level if you can find a way to place it flat on the wheel face. The camber gauges are easier to use. It's a tool you'll be happy to have.
The next problem I can forsee with your setup is your car will be very unbalanced when you heat up your front tires. The difference in grip will cause the car to want to oversteer badly when driven even close to the limit. Your going to want to balance out your traction. I'd look for a set of 13x6 wheels and buy some 185/60-13 Yokahama A048r tires for the rear of your car. You don't want anything wider because the rears won't build enough heat (the back of the car is too light to utilize a wide tire). They don't sell the NT01 in a 185/60-13 in this country. The A048r is the closest match, with the Toyo R888 being your second best choice.
Ultimately, you'll really benefit from moving your engine up 2.125 inches and installing a g series transmission. Moving that engine weight forward is like entering a cheat code in a video game. The difference in corner entry speeds, high speed stability and grip are amazing. You can throw all the HP you want at this chassis, but all that HP will be useless if you can't put it to the ground at your apex. The extra pressure on the front wheels is critical.