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Nice! Also, JB weld holds washer stacks together really well too. How do you like the ride compared to the cut stock springs?
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Total parts costs for two rear coilovers:
-- From Tire Rack:
(2) VW Mk1 (1993 VW Cabriolet) KYB shocks, ~$95 w/shipping
-- From SW Speed:
(2) 105#, 10" long, 1 7/8" ID coilover springs, $80
(2) 36mm threaded sleeves, $26
(2) 36mm adjusting nuts, $20
shipping, $13
-- From hardware store:
Various washers, $9; set screws and drill bit/tap kit, $7.
TOTAL COST: $250
And all parts are re-usable when you need to buy new struts, so it's a one-time expense for most of it.Last edited by TominMO; 10-27-2015, 06:17 PM.
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With the three big washers. They are ~5/16" thick total. I also used some electrical tape to snug the fit between the small and large washers.
Next I wrapped the lower washers in electrical tape, and used part of one of my rubber spring isolators, from the top of the rear spring, to cover the new spring. The important part is on the inside, where they contact the washers. Snug fit. I secured the spring isolator with electrical tape, then wrapped it in some more.
Here's the final result, except I removed the lower rubber donut after trying out various arrangements. This pic only shows the parts that fit under the upper hole in the body. I still have to add the upper donut, washer and nut after compressing the strut on the car.
Last edited by TominMO; 10-27-2015, 05:54 PM.
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I re-did my tophat arrangement on the Aspire coilovers with the 1 7/8" springs. I decided to ditch the bumper tophat and go with metal, for safety/durability. Went to the big box hardware store and spent $8.55 in materials. Everything else I had on hand.
I found some 2 1/2" wide washers, but they had a huge center hole. I wanted three per coilover, but couldn't figure out how to fill that hole. Then I realized that a smaller washer might do it. I found some 7/16"-hole washers that were perfect. I needed 14, 7 per side, for the three big washers per side.
I also got six fender washers, 1.5" wide, with a 3/8" hole. These were for the bottom smaller section of the tophat, where the spring would fit. I had to open them up a little with a round file for a perfect fit, no big deal. I used some other smaller 7/16" washers between them to make them taller. Also, here's the stack of 7/16" washers that fits inside the big washers. I used a little bit of electrical tape to make a snugger fit, since the shaft is between 3/8" and 7/16".
Last edited by TominMO; 10-27-2015, 05:47 PM.
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Originally posted by Movin View PostFront and rear were in the conversation, I was thinking of the front as that is where the challenge would be. One of mine is that way in the rear. I have small inflatable tires for up and down and a guide bushing in the spring seat for the shock rod to hold things centered. I had forgot I did that for at least a year...it is driving fine but I should check it.
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Front and rear were in the conversation, I was thinking of the front as that is where the challenge would be. One of mine is that way in the rear. I have small inflatable tires for up and down and a guide bushing in the spring seat for the shock rod to hold things centered. I had forgot I did that for at least a year...it is driving fine but I should check it.
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Originally posted by TominMO View PostThat could very well be workable, esp. if I go for the 14" springs. It's possible that with springs that long I could even get by without a top hat at all; just have a rubber cover, like we do for the stock springs. But I'd prefer an actual top hat solution.
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Originally posted by Advancedynamix View PostIf the poly top hat is supported by a piece of steel behind it, then you should be fine. You can't expect the plastic to hold the weight of the car. I wouldn't use these on the front, but in the back they should be fine with a piece of 3/16 steel on top of them, or better yet, if they seat in the cup that is up in the body of the car.
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If the poly top hat is supported by a piece of steel behind it, then you should be fine. You can't expect the plastic to hold the weight of the car. I wouldn't use these on the front, but in the back they should be fine with a piece of 3/16 steel on top of them, or better yet, if they seat in the cup that is up in the body of the car.
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I don't recommend the plastic ones. I busted one on my bp car when I shifted into second gear under power.
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Originally posted by Advancedynamix View PostThese ones aren't shaped like those ones you used as top hats. What car did those come from?
I'm not sure if that foam will hold up for long supporting the spring, but I hope it does because that's a nice solution.
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These ones aren't shaped like those ones you used as top hats. What car did those come from?
I'm not sure if that foam will hold up for long supporting the spring, but I hope it does because that's a nice solution.Last edited by Advancedynamix; 10-26-2015, 02:17 PM.
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Originally posted by Advancedynamix View PostTom,
The part number for the long white bump stops is 1J0 512 131B
You have to cut the widest bulb off or sand it to fit the 1 7/8 springs. You can stack and cut bump stops to suit your application.
Edit: on the other hand, it would probably be better to have the bump stop riding free on the bottom, to keep more gunk off the shaft.
The bump stopLast edited by TominMO; 10-26-2015, 01:22 PM.
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