That part is fine. It's more the conversion from decimal back to 1/64ths. I'm pretty sure you need a Sumerian abacus to do that.
Nope, that's easy too. Multiply mm by 2.527 to get 64ths of an inch (or just 2.53 for a close estimation).
Here's why:
1 inch = 64/64ths inch = 25.4mm*, all interchangeable for math purposes
So, to convert 38mm to 64ths of an inch:
38mm / 25.4mm = 1.496 inches (call it 1.5)
64 x 1.5 = 96.0
So 38mm = 96 64ths of an inch, because 1.5" = 96/64
So, using the shortcut:
38mm x 2.53 = 96.14, or 96.1 (remember this is .03 high)
So 38mm = 96.1/64ths; or 96/64ths, i.e. 1.5 inches
What I would do if I wanted to get it exact and had to multiply it in my head is this:
Multiply mm by 2.5 to get close, (38 x 2.5 = 38 + 38 + 19 = 95)
then multiply the mm by 1%, (38 x .01 = .38 )
triple that, (.38 x 3 = 1.14)
then add it to the result of the first answer. (95 + 1.14 = 96.14)
Thats from centre of lower mount, to end of shaft. So take off 30mm, and that should be about where top nuts retain upper washer.
I'm not much good at converting mm back to inches, I should get one of those tape measures that has both!
I'm not much good at converting mm back to inches, I should get one of those tape measures that has both!
I cant think in mm, always need to convert it to inches. Just like i cant think in celcius above 40c but farenhight means nothing to me below 105.
I have started using a unit converter app on my phone a lot since joining this site. Im starting to get a rough idea of how fast mph is now after a year and a half...
The coolest tape measures are the ones that are already in fractions for the inch side.
Thats from centre of lower mount, to end of shaft. So take off 30mm, and that should be about where top nuts retain upper washer. I'm not much good at converting mm back to inches, I should get one of those tape measures that has both!
Not super-difficult, divide by 25.4, or just 25 for ballpark numbers.
Thats from centre of lower mount, to end of shaft. So take off 30mm, and that should be about where top nuts retain upper washer.
I'm not much good at converting mm back to inches, I should get one of those tape measures that has both!
"Top of the thread" is a little ambiguous, but if you mean where the last two nuts retain the upper washer;
16 inches compressed / 24-3/16 inches extended, approximately, used a tape measure.
Last edited by Dragonhealer; 01-17-2017, 08:10 AM.
Had to dig back a little bit, but the answer was right here in this thread.
My steel hats were powder coated and the aluminum hats were hard anodized. I don't think steel can be hard anodized. I have made some which were zinc coated though, which is similar to hard anodize.
I have a guy that was gunna make me some like I got off ebay but there much thicker.
Is there an advantage to them being thin other than the car sitting a half inch lower?
Here's what the one I bought looks like.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
The thin ones were my early design for the Festiva/Aspire KYB shocks with shortened shafts. The thick ones work better on the MK1 VW KYB shocks. That's the latest design.
I have a guy that was gunna make me some like I got off ebay but there much thicker.
Is there an advantage to them being thin other than the car sitting a half inch lower?
Here's what the one I bought looks like.
Leave a comment: