Advanced Suspension Mods

[Movin]

Front and rear were in the conversation, I was thinking of the front as that is where the challenge would be. One of mine is that way in the rear. I have small inflatable tires for up and down and a guide bushing in the spring seat for the shock rod to hold things centered. I had forgot I did that for at least a year...it is driving fine but I should check it.

[Advancedynamix]

Front and rear were in the conversation, I was thinking of the front as that is where the challenge would be. One of mine is that way in the rear. I have small inflatable tires for up and down and a guide bushing in the spring seat for the shock rod to hold things centered. I had forgot I did that for at least a year...it is driving fine but I should check it.

You are using small inflatable tires for air bags to lift and lower the car with the upper spring hat? Any pictures of this? Where did you get the little tires?

[TominMO]

I re-did my tophat arrangement on the Aspire coilovers with the 1 7/8" springs. I decided to ditch the bumper tophat and go with metal, for safety/durability. Went to the big box hardware store and spent $8.55 in materials. Everything else I had on hand.

I found some 2 1/2" wide washers, but they had a huge center hole. I wanted three per coilover, but couldn't figure out how to fill that hole. Then I realized that a smaller washer might do it. I found some 7/16"-hole washers that were perfect. I needed 14, 7 per side, for the three big washers per side.


I also got six fender washers, 1.5" wide, with a 3/8" hole. These were for the bottom smaller section of the tophat, where the spring would fit. I had to open them up a little with a round file for a perfect fit, no big deal. I used some other smaller 7/16" washers between them to make them taller. Also, here's the stack of 7/16" washers that fits inside the big washers. I used a little bit of electrical tape to make a snugger fit, since the shaft is between 3/8" and 7/16".

[TominMO]

With the three big washers. They are ~5/16" thick total. I also used some electrical tape to snug the fit between the small and large washers.


Next I wrapped the lower washers in electrical tape, and used part of one of my rubber spring isolators, from the top of the rear spring, to cover the new spring. The important part is on the inside, where they contact the washers. Snug fit. I secured the spring isolator with electrical tape, then wrapped it in some more.


Here's the final result, except I removed the lower rubber donut after trying out various arrangements. This pic only shows the parts that fit under the upper hole in the body. I still have to add the upper donut, washer and nut after compressing the strut on the car.

[TominMO]

Total parts costs for two rear coilovers:
-- From Tire Rack:
(2) VW Mk1 (1993 VW Cabriolet) KYB shocks, ~$95 w/shipping
-- From SW Speed:
(2) 105#, 10" long, 1 7/8" ID coilover springs, $80
(2) 36mm threaded sleeves, $26
(2) 36mm adjusting nuts, $20
shipping, $13
-- From hardware store:
Various washers, $9; set screws and drill bit/tap kit, $7.
TOTAL COST: $250

And all parts are re-usable when you need to buy new struts, so it's a one-time expense for most of it.

[Advancedynamix]

Nice! Also, JB weld holds washer stacks together really well too. How do you like the ride compared to the cut stock springs?

[Advancedynamix]

I also just noticed that there is a picture of the car that inspired all this craziness on your wall. Lol

[TominMO]

Nice! Also, JB weld holds washer stacks together really well too. How do you like the ride compared to the cut stock springs?

I thought about JBing it, but decided not to bother. Haven't driven it yet; it rained all day today, so I spent it working on the car, etc. Tmw it's dry, so I'll check it out then.

[Movin]

You are using small inflatable tires for air bags to lift and lower the car with the upper spring hat? Any pictures of this? Where did you get the little tires?

That was about 5 years ago. It seems like they were 4 inch for a hand truck or something, I got them from a hardware store. The inner tube did not work, the pocket in the car is not shaped right to keep things in place with air. The remaining rubber has worked great for all this time. The idea was to offset the 75lb spring rate while towing a trailer. Towing has been awesome without the little one inch or so bump up. I have metal backed plastic for the spring, that has worked great too. The one thing I would do different is use some nice colored hydraulic hose wrap to keep my 14" springs from rattling on the shock body during articulation. The springs are adjustable but the threads get jammed with red cinders and the little tool doesn't work anymore.

[TominMO]

Nice! Also, JB weld holds washer stacks together really well too. How do you like the ride compared to the cut stock springs?

Just took it for a short ride around the neighborhood. The rear seemed more planted on the bumpy parts with the 105# springs. Now the front feels undersprung and underdamped too (Festy KYBs and stock Aspire front springs). I'm planning on Rio fronts for the Aspire, like on the Festy. All this might wait until spring tho. I'd like to get to the Festy rears before it gets cold, but we'll see. Other than actually mounting and unmounting, all the work can be done in my basement.

[Advancedynamix]

You need some VW shocks up front now. Mk2 or 3 fit with some modifications to the mounting holes.

[TominMO]

You need some VW shocks up front now. Mk2 or 3 fit with some modifications to the mounting holes.

On the Aspire, I'd go along with that. The Kias are almost new on the Festy, and have good damping; so I'm gonna try to make them work in the spring.

[cliferton]

these are the rear top hats for this suspension setup. the 7mm one is the one that Charlie did and I drew based off his measurements, and the 25.4mm is the one that I did after talking with him on spring location. I believe he used steel that was hard anodized for the 7mm while the 25.4mm was made from t6 6061 and was not coated. The centering step diameter may need to be modified very slightly depending on spring rate. I believe I turned mine slightly smaller than the print and the model show. I will measure them as soon as I get the rear apart again. Just measure the true I.D. of your spring before you make them or have them made.

Here is the dropbox link to blueprints and solid model of the hats. I saved them as a generic .IGES If you want a more specific file type lmk.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/h1g0e6ns29s4mjo/AADlOhzmgN4fDEOtdopU7W3Oa?dl=0

[shorestiva]

Awesome! How necessary are these though? I'm just letting mine sit against the strut tower at the moment. It you use the stock festiva strut bushings it fits almost perfectly in the center of the spring and keeps the top of the spring centered. I want to eventually get some top hats made but don't know how high it should be on my to do list. (tires that don't f@#$ing vibrate over 60mph are first on the list)

[Advancedynamix]

I thought they were necessary, but people have been proving that wrong. I haven't had problems with the thin style, but suggested that Clif make the thicker style, which he's been running on his championship winning autocross festiva. This is all just suggestion, but there are always different ways to build good results.