STR 513 15x8

[Advancedynamix]

By the way my front fenders are stretched out over an inch. The Festiva fenders are like putty, they stretch very easybut your limited in the back by a body seam that is half way between the arch and the body line I can tuck 15x7's with no rub at all and my body lines appear stock. Just be patient and work it slowly.

[bondo]

Yeahhh right on you think I could tuck um even if there 0 offset? and I want the 15's but do they rub when you turn?

[deathrace2000]

I think an 8J could fit with a pull too, but not at +0. Even with a stretched 165/45 and a few degrees of negative camber it seems like it would still protrude past the fender line. 8J +25 or something may fit, though. I'm interested to see how this turns out.

[bondo]

Yeahh it would be nice if they could let you pick your own offset haha. But yeahh a 25mm offset would be good but I just cant find rims that are 15x8 with 25mm off set that I like.

[bondo]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Enkei-J-SPEED-15-x-8-Black-Rims-4-x-100-25-mm-Offset-Wheels-/121065384885?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c300f2bb5&vxp=mtr

I found these and there 15x8 4x100 with a 25mm offset

[Advancedynamix]

Yeah, 20-25mm offset for sure. And they offer most of those rims in that spec. You need too look harder. We have a dealer here in Phoenix that sells 15x8's in many styles for around 350 a set. Same stuff as thuse str wheels.

[Advancedynamix]

Also, take note. In order to properly fit 15x8" et25 wheels onto a Festiva, you will need some access to fabrication and machining equipment you'll need to run lots of negative camber and that's not possible with stock components. The negative camber will not only allow the wheels to fit into the wheel wells, it will also compensate for the lower wheel offset and your car will handle well without wandering and feeling "grabby"

[bondo]

Also, take note. In order to properly fit 15x8" et25 wheels onto a Festiva, you will need some access to fabrication and machining equipment you'll need to run lots of negative camber and that's not possible with stock components. The negative camber will not only allow the wheels to fit into the wheel wells, it will also compensate for the lower wheel offset and your car will handle well without wandering and feeling "grabby"

By stock components are you talking bout the suspension? I have civic coilover sleeves with kybgr2 struts right now but plan on getting full raceland coilovers so the perch doesnt get in the way. I also have the aspire rear beam and front knuckles. And I weld and do a decent amount of fabrication to. I could slot the strut to make the camber adjustments right? thanks

[Advancedynamix]

With the raceland (or any MK2/MK3 VW front strut) you can elongate the top knuckle mounting hole .250" and get over 3 degrees of negative camber in the front. You'll want short and soft front springs to give you the drop your looking for with clearance for an 8" wheel. Probably 160lb 8" front springs. In the back you'll want to do something similar to what I did in my "Advanced Suspension Modifications" thread ( stickied in this forum). You will need to make camber spacer shims for your rear stub axles and you'll also want to space the rear shocksinward more by modifying the lower mounting points on the beam ( only feasible with 1 7/8 or smaller springs. You'll also want very soft springs in the rear, like 120lb or so and you'll have to run your adjusters half way up the sleeves and run about 3 degrees of negative camber. Don't run any toe at all with this much negative camber, or else you'll have tire wear issues. I ran -2.8 degrees from coast to coast and back (6000 miles) with zero abnormal tire wear and my car rides better than stock. You can have a low stance, great performance and a quality ride if your chassis is tuned properly.
Last, but not least, DON'T CUT YOUR REAR FENDERS OUT FOR FLARES unless you plan on reinforcing the rear of the car. The structure relies on the pinch weld in the lip of the rear wheel arches. You can stretch it all you want, but cutting this seam is not advisable.

[Advancedynamix]

Oh, forgot to mention, stock replacement struts don't offer much room for slotting to adjust camber. Your knuckle will bottom against the strut and your lucky to get -2 out of them you'll need much more than -2 to make 8" wide wheels look right on a Festiva. You may want to look into widening some 14" wheels. 14's will have more proportionate to the Festiva body for a modern stance appearance. 14x8 would be a better choice than 15x8. 13x8 will hit your steering knuckle in the front ( yes, I have 13x8 BBS RS that I've tried to squeeze under there lol).

[bondo]

Your Awesome man! thanks for the info. Well theres not much choice for 14x8 but I did find these and I think they look sick. 14x8 4x100 with 25mm offset and there 10lbs haha. Also I would I be able to go more stiff than that because I dont want the car to be sitting when I pound it or sway when I take turns, is 120lbs still stiff?

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/volk-racing-te37v-wheel-14x80-4x100-46mm-rim-p-156734.html

[Die-Laughing]

Lol, those volks are $500 a piece!

[bondo]

Your Awesome man! thanks for the info. Well theres not much choice for 14x8 but I did find these and I think they look sick. 14x8 4x100 with 25mm offset and there 10lbs haha. Also I would I be able to go more stiff than that because I dont want the car to be sitting when I pound it or sway when I take turns, is 120lbs still stiff?
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/v...-p-156734.html

Nevermind haha there 500 a piece, crazy haha

[bondo]

hahaha I just realized that

[bondo]

So I found these, its really hard to find 14x8 4x100 with close to a 25mm offset that isnt to pricey. They are two 15x8s, I dont know which one to choose.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111019518532?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

http://www.ebay.com/itm/350624916667?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

There both nice and the gunmetal on has a 30mm offset which should be better with the tucking, lmk what you guys think?