Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Ultimate Street suspension guide

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • No clue! Its all the same info that Advancedynamix has already given in his thread. I just cleaned it up and listed it all at once to make it super easy for others to follow.
    1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
    1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
    1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
    19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
    1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

    Comment


    • I plan on combining all of these threads and making it an article. Development is still progressing on this chassis though and new things are always coming up. Luckily, there are a group of us here that have utilized this setup to answer any questions. Together, we can all make this setup even better and easier to build or buy.
      Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
        That depends on your ride height and your requirements. If you prefer less body roll and want a firm ride or are planning on carrying a heavy load then longer is better. If you want a little more roll or a softer ride and don't plan on carrying heavy loads then shorter stops may be better. I run mine shortened, because I like a little body roll and I prefer a soft ride.
        Ok, great! Thanks for the info.
        1990 L Plus Stock B3 automatic -scrapped- My First Festiva - RIP
        1991 GL - B6d, g-series trans, aspire brakes, Advanced Suspension coilovers, Miata 7 spoke rims, '98 Prelude seats, more to come!
        2005 Focus ZX4 SES - purchased from original owner, my grandmother. Currently my wife's daily. 210k

        You can follow me on instagram @twfodor

        Comment


        • I did this upgrade on my car and I've got to say it is the difference between night and day! Makes it a blast to drive. Holds the road way better and feels much more planted on the pavement. I'm no race driver so I'm a little scared to push it too hard, but I can take most freeway ramps at 55 to 60 mph with no troubles at all! The Rio strut mounts are the icing on the cake since they make it much easier to steer. I want to thank Advncedynamics and Mikemounlio for all of their effort. Would never have found out how well these cars can handle without your guidance. I ended up with about 2.9* of negative camber. (pretty good for winging it with a round file) My toe was way out after I first did it but I used the string method to get it to 0. The Caddy Hottunig coilovers work perfectly. Once again, thanks. Especially to Charlie for inventing all this and to mikemounlio for putting it in an easy to follow thread. It has been a long evolution!
          Last edited by zoe60; 10-07-2016, 02:01 PM.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by zoe60 View Post
            I did this upgrade on my car and I've got to say it is the difference between night and day! Makes it a blast to drive. Holds the road way better and feels much more planted on the pavement. I'm no race driver so I'm a little scared to push it too hard, but I can take most freeway ramps at 55 to 60 mph with no troubles at all! The Rio strut mounts are the icing on the cake since they make it much easier to steer. I want to thank Advncedynamics and Mikemounlio for all of their effort. Would never have found out how well these cars can handle without your guidance. I ended up with about 2.9* of negative camber. (pretty good for winging it with a round file) My toe was way out after I first did it but I used the string method to get it to 0. The Caddy Hottunig coilovers work perfectly. Once again, thanks. Especially to Charlie for inventing all this and to mikemounlio for putting it in an easy to follow thread. It has been a long evolution!
            No problem man! I did this write up just for this reason! Im glad you were able to get the job done with my help. Good luck and thanks for the feedback.
            1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
            1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
            1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
            19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
            1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

            Comment


            • Hahaha. I read through 20+ pages of Charlie's build yesterday. I could have saved myself some time coming here but I feel like I did some learning so I'm cool with that. I still don't full understand these camber shims yet or how they get installed. Is there a thread for that? Great info guys, I can't wait to try it for myself.

              Comment


              • Originally posted by zoe60 View Post
                I did this upgrade on my car and I've got to say it is the difference between night and day! Makes it a blast to drive. Holds the road way better and feels much more planted on the pavement. I'm no race driver so I'm a little scared to push it too hard, but I can take most freeway ramps at 55 to 60 mph with no troubles at all! The Rio strut mounts are the icing on the cake since they make it much easier to steer. I want to thank Advncedynamics and Mikemounlio for all of their effort. Would never have found out how well these cars can handle without your guidance. I ended up with about 2.9* of negative camber. (pretty good for winging it with a round file) My toe was way out after I first did it but I used the string method to get it to 0. The Caddy Hottunig coilovers work perfectly. Once again, thanks. Especially to Charlie for inventing all this and to mikemounlio for putting it in an easy to follow thread. It has been a long evolution!
                Very happy to help. I'm also glad that Mike documents his work so well. The more of these cars that are out there being enjoyed, the more we will all learn about what they are capable of.
                Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

                Comment


                • I've seen talk of make-shift rear camber by using washers between the spindle and beam; does anyone know what the outcome of 1/8in washers would be? Or what thickness is needed for -2 degrees camber?
                  1990 L Plus Stock B3 automatic -scrapped- My First Festiva - RIP
                  1991 GL - B6d, g-series trans, aspire brakes, Advanced Suspension coilovers, Miata 7 spoke rims, '98 Prelude seats, more to come!
                  2005 Focus ZX4 SES - purchased from original owner, my grandmother. Currently my wife's daily. 210k

                  You can follow me on instagram @twfodor

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by TWFodor View Post
                    I've seen talk of make-shift rear camber by using washers between the spindle and beam; does anyone know what the outcome of 1/8in washers would be? Or what thickness is needed for -2 degrees camber?
                    I was gonna do this! Until i took the rear apart. The rear spindle is held in place by 4 studs. The issue is that the studs are not in line vertically or horizontally. TYou would have to have 4 different thickness washers to make the camber and toe come out right.

                    I have bought some shims that are a disk. They are a hard plastic material. You line the shim up to the angle you want and cut holes in it. You take the spindle off and put the big round shim under it. i have shims that are 1.5. I bought 2 for each side to give me -3. I will try my best to get the fat part of the shim on the bottom. My goal is to get -3 camber and keep my 0 toe. I have heard that the shims are a pain in the butt to get right tho. Ill look for a part number.
                    1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                    1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                    1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                    19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                    1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by TWFodor View Post
                      I've seen talk of make-shift rear camber by using washers between the spindle and beam; does anyone know what the outcome of 1/8in washers would be? Or what thickness is needed for -2 degrees camber?
                      If your shooting for 2 degrees swap in an aspire rear beam.
                      You can remove the Swaybar and make it flex like a festiva beam the aspire axle gives you around 2 degrees negative camber. I had mine on the alinement rack and the rear was 2.2 negative. I think I'm going to remove the sway bar from the rear on mine because when really pushing it the front will under steer but I'm not sure if that's the cause or not

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by william View Post
                        If your shooting for 2 degrees swap in an aspire rear beam.
                        You can remove the Swaybar and make it flex like a festiva beam the aspire axle gives you around 2 degrees negative camber. I had mine on the alinement rack and the rear was 2.2 negative. I think I'm going to remove the sway bar from the rear on mine because when really pushing it the front will under steer but I'm not sure if that's the cause or not
                        Well that's good to know! I have the aspire beam already. I have heard of people removing the bar from the beam though. I may do this at some point as well.
                        1990 L Plus Stock B3 automatic -scrapped- My First Festiva - RIP
                        1991 GL - B6d, g-series trans, aspire brakes, Advanced Suspension coilovers, Miata 7 spoke rims, '98 Prelude seats, more to come!
                        2005 Focus ZX4 SES - purchased from original owner, my grandmother. Currently my wife's daily. 210k

                        You can follow me on instagram @twfodor

                        Comment


                        • I have a aspire beam in mine I only had -1 with the advanced suspension. I spent all yesterday shimming it with washers it's a royal pain in the a** to do. You'll probably end up having to grind down washers to get it close.
                          Better Than Nothing Racing

                          Way too many cars

                          Comment


                          • I'm running my car with advanced suspension as well but it's setting as high as possible in the rear . I think you lose cambe and gain toe as it squats right? What I use for an alinement is really a frame rack so it may not be a that accrete .

                            Comment


                            • On the front on mine if you adjust the camber, it has a big effect on toe and you will have to adjust it as well. Something to be aware of. Does this sound right?

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by william View Post
                                If your shooting for 2 degrees swap in an aspire rear beam.
                                You can remove the Swaybar and make it flex like a festiva beam the aspire axle gives you around 2 degrees negative camber. I had mine on the alinement rack and the rear was 2.2 negative. I think I'm going to remove the sway bar from the rear on mine because when really pushing it the front will under steer but I'm not sure if that's the cause or not
                                Having the rear bar would cause more oversteer, not understeer. A stiffer front will cause more understeer. That's why we don't run the aspire front bar.
                                91GL BP/F3A with boost
                                13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X