It's amazing how stock wheels from another car can make our cars look stock but somehow much higher performance than other cars of that year. Gotta love it. Rotors are awesome. Kudos on the cross pattern following the design of the car.
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Big_ty2003's 1993 L Festy Build Thread
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In love with a MadScientist!:thumbright:
There's a fine line between breathtaking ingenuity and "That's the stupidest thing I've ever seen!"
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Originally posted by big_ty2003 View PostFound them at Advance Auto, btw.
I got the aspire rear beam bolted on took a drum apart to discover the wheel cylinder is bad...
Is it worth it to get the drums turned our should I just use them the way they are?It's a good thing you don't read the stickies, you might of learned something.Poverty produces creativity
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Originally posted by bhazard View PostMan you rich.
I would just visit as many junkyards as you could to find parts that are usable.
Get the rotors and drums turned and just buy new pads and shoes.Last edited by big_ty2003; 06-01-2010, 06:32 AM.
1993 Festiva L, aspire swapped, selling parts for a BP+T build.
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Finally got the correct caliper from O'reilly's today... third times the charm I guess!
Ended up buying some new Monroe sensatrack shocks, I figure they will hold me over until I can get the money together for the "performance" suspension. It was looking pretty impossible to remove the old bolts from the shocks.
1993 Festiva L, aspire swapped, selling parts for a BP+T build.
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Originally posted by big_ty2003 View PostNot exactly...
I would just visit as many junkyards as you could to find parts that are usable.
Get the rotors and drums turned and just buy new pads and shoes.91GL BP/F3A with boost
13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's
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Absolutely possible. I think you've finished the Aspire swap... I don't recall exactly. Bolt on the EGT calipers. Buy yourself a set of Porterfield R4S pads, they're the best on the market. I've included the part number at the bottom. You can bolt on the EGT rotors by redrilling them to the Aspire's 4x100 spec. You can also fit the 266mm Mitsubishi Galant rotors to the EGT by doing the same redrill - much wider and superior (read as necessary) if you do any sort of racing. Anybody with a drill press and some experience can crank out a set in no time.
For haters/doubters, this is what a redrilled set of rotors looks like. Note this is a different application and for a different car, just as an example. Oddly enough, these are the 276mm Galant VR-4 rotors... but for a Mirage swap instead of a Festiva swap. Totally safe and effective if done right.
If you look at the rotors from between 12 and 1, you'll see 4x114. If you look at them from between 1 and 2, you'll see 4x100. There are two extra holes that came with the rotors from factory.
Please note that the 266mm Galant swap is LABELED as "Galant VR-4 Swap" but some of the Galant VR-4's (91-92) actually came with 276mm rotors (the same as Eclipse/Talon/Lasers from 92-99, Lancer Evolutions 1-3, and 3000GT SL's), which would be too large for both 14" wheels and Escort GT calipers. You are looking ONLY for "
1988.1 to 1989.10 Mitsubishi Galant w/ Rear Disk", which is KVR Part Number #MI332. However, if you can come up with a 10mm caliper spacer, I don't see why the 276mm ones wouldn't work unless they are too thick for the calipers, in which case you could come up with a Rotary-calipered solution.
The cheap way to do this swap: Junkyard Calipers (see stamp info below) and Ebay Rotors/Pads.
The pricey/awesome way to do this swap:
Brake Pad Part Numbers: Hawk Brake # HB246.567 / Porterfield # AP-473
Caliper Stamp Numbers: Look for 22V / 14 stamped on Caliper Body
Rotor Part Number: KVR #MI332
You'd be hard-pressed to find some drilled/slotted rotors for this application, as the late-80's Galant's were not all that numerous/popular in the Mitsubishi tuner culture excluding rallying. However, such a modification would be fairly useless. The Escort GT weighed in at a whopping 2500 pounds, and the GVR-4's were even heavier due to the AWD and fancy drivetrain components. With a say... 1900 pound Festiva, upgraded with brakes that come factory for cars weighing almost 700 pounds more (without drivers), you won't have to worry about heat dissipation or pad cooling. It'd be almost difficult to get them up to operating temperature without some sort of racing/aggression. They're SUPER thick, but well worth it from what I've read/researched here.
You CAN keep the stock Festiva booster and Master Cylinder, but that doesn't necessarily mean that you should. It seems to work okay with just the Aspire swap - at least for me. However, with such a big set of brakes up front, I'd probably want something a little more serious just in case. Optional though... recommended for aggressive/race/autocross use. You can also look into adjustable proportioning valves so that your monstrosities of front brakes are working harmoniously with your rear Aspire drums.
Corksport does offer stainless lines for the Escort GT caliper, but I'm not sure as to their compatibility within the Festiva/Aspire community. Grab yourself a good brake fluid (search on Google) and you're set!Last edited by Aaronbrook37; 06-03-2010, 01:18 PM.1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc
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I made a mistake on the rotors here... they don't bolt up to the calipers with the Aspire spindles without a spacer or use of 323GTX/XR2 spindles instead. I can't seem to edit my post any longer. If mods want to weed out/partition any information I gave on rotors, feel free.Last edited by Aaronbrook37; 06-03-2010, 11:48 PM.1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc
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