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^get new shocks?
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Mike, AKA the sasquatch
1990 LX, bp+T/g25mr, 9psi dynoed at 194HP, turbonetics t3/to4e 57trim, haltech E6X standalone, 550cc injectors, turbosmart wastegate, synapse BOV, walbro 255 fuel pump, aeromotive FPR, AEM wideband, 3 inch exhaust, huge FMIC, 9LB flywheel, 6 puck clutch and way more parts that im forgetting i installed lol... -
Got $500 USD I can have for shocks & springs? I'm all tapped out :tongue3:
1993 Festiva L, aspire swapped, selling parts for a BP+T build.Comment
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You could use a grinder to knock off the weld and if the head is buggered up try a pipe wrench to remove the bolt. Then get replacement bolts.Originally posted by big_ty2003 View Post
Hopefully the weld didn't get to the sleeve inside the rubber.
If it did, then the only option I can think of is to sawzall the bolt/sleeve as close as you can to the shock base towards the backing plate and as close to the outer mount as possible. That way you'll at least have something to grab with vise grips to remove the remainder of the bolt.
If it comes to that more than likely washers could be used temporarily to take up the space until you can either get new rubbers or shocks.
Hope this helps.Comment
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^ Thanks!
1993 Festiva L, aspire swapped, selling parts for a BP+T build.Comment
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Dude you're gonna have this done by tomorrow night, right?91GL BP/F3A with boost
13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12'sComment
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I sure hope so!
1993 Festiva L, aspire swapped, selling parts for a BP+T build.Comment
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Need a hand?91GL BP/F3A with boost
13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12'sComment
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Problem solved... Sort of.
The bolt is still stuck in the shock. It wasn't actually screwed into anything so its broke off in side. One the other shock the bolt is horribly bent because this one wasn't screwed into anything either.
Can anyone tell me what size bolts to buy at the parts store to screw the shocks into the aspire trailing arm?
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As always thanks for the help guys!
1993 Festiva L, aspire swapped, selling parts for a BP+T build.Comment
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10-1.25 thread 70mm length from shoulder to end.
I just checked the pitch by running a 10-1.25 die over the one bolt that came out whole.
The stock bolt only had a "10" as a marking on the head.Last edited by lessersivad; 05-29-2010, 05:34 PM.Comment
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Well I finally got the rear beam off the festy. Luckily I am a very patient person because this car is fighting me every step of the way. Got kind of buzzed up on the fumes of burning liquid wrench and rubber. :lol:
I'll post up some pics for you guys in a bit...
1993 Festiva L, aspire swapped, selling parts for a BP+T build.Comment
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Originally posted by lessersivad View Post
Found them at Advance Auto, btw.
I got the aspire rear beam bolted on took a drum apart to discover the wheel cylinder is bad...
Is it worth it to get the drums turned our should I just use them the way they are?
1993 Festiva L, aspire swapped, selling parts for a BP+T build.Comment
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Look at those sexy rotors! $25 a piece at tirerack.comLast edited by big_ty2003; 05-30-2010, 07:28 PM.
1993 Festiva L, aspire swapped, selling parts for a BP+T build.Comment
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Glad you found the bolts.
Did you unbolt the brackets and all or just the 2 pivot bolts for the beam?
I'd check to see what it would cost for turning vs. new if they are real bad.
Nice rotors and wheels.Comment
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Unbolted the whole brackets, It was pretty hard though. It took a lot of liquid wrench and torching them to get them off.
1993 Festiva L, aspire swapped, selling parts for a BP+T build.Comment
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Well at least the major part is done and you didn't catch yourself or the car on fire. Good job.Comment
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