Well i got my bracket made up today and here's how it looks, as far as i can tell it should work pretty good but i won't know for sure until i get a clutch installed with everything in the engine bay
And on another note i think i know what rad i will be using, a 97' Jeep cherokee rad it 12" x 36" and i think it'll fit quite nicely
two arms coming off that shaft with some type of carrier may work. You can calculate leverage ratios. Hydraulic pressure is pretty strong tho.
That is something i am considering when i finish making this, but i think the extra hydraulic pressure is what makes the pedal softer in a factory hydraulic clutch car but wouldn't be any extra strain on the cable set-up but i'll be sure to make sure there's plenty of leverage :lol:
what about fasioning a rope pully on a bracket (allows more virtical room for the starter) and also have it swivlle to follow the cable through it's travel.
Hmm I wonder if that bracket you are making is going to fit on the protege G tranny since the starter is in a different spot. Now that I see the part in place I understand what your doing. I would be interested in buying one depending on how well it works for you.
So i pulled the tranny back out (yet again) and i also pulled the clutch cable out so i can take them to work to finish making my bracket and i love the interchangability of mazda parts, the probe tranny doesn't use a cable but it still has the mounting holes for the cable to bolt onto lol
And this is roughly where my bracket will get mounted, but i need to know where the starter will be in that area since i don't want my bracket to interefere with it so i beleive there's a starter at my work but if anyone has a pic to post please do
glad to see its moving along. The guys on the ford honda and chevy forums dont understand what a real swap is. They buy already made up mounts and harness for 99 percent of the swaps out there. most dont have the nerve to jump into something like this. Its nice to see our small group try some realy wild stuff. Most of them is basesd on hard work, VERY creative attitudes and restricted budgets. this is what hot rodding is realy about.
I break this kind of swap into two parts, the heavy part, getting everything into place. The next is the detailed part, hooking up all crap to make it run. For me thats the hardest part. when you get there dont get too frustrated hooking up two harness to make one negine run, I had lots of help with wiring issues with mine. It was the first time I swapped in a injected engine into a carbed body, I had to step away several times to count to 10 so I wouldnt drag it to the scrap yard.
I guess what im trying to say is VERY GOOD WORK !! dont get frustrated and dont be affraid to ask for help.
You are so very right Nova!! And ya I am on a limited budget as well :lol:
As far as the "heavy" part of it, it's almost complete, it's the detail part that'll be time consumming, like me converting my tranny to cable clutch, the only thing i can see myself having trouble with is the wiring, i already have experice splicing 2 harnesses together with my B6T swap so it's not new to me, but wiring has never been my strong suit, so when the time come i won't be affraid to ask, i already do have wiring diagrams for the engine which is something i didn't have with my B6T swap so i'm already a step ahead
glad to see its moving along. The guys on the ford honda and chevy forums dont understand what a real swap is. They buy already made up mounts and harness for 99 percent of the swaps out there. most dont have the nerve to jump into something like this. Its nice to see our small group try some realy wild stuff. Most of them is basesd on hard work, VERY creative attitudes and restricted budgets. this is what hot rodding is realy about.
I break this kind of swap into two parts, the heavy part, getting everything into place. The next is the detailed part, hooking up all crap to make it run. For me thats the hardest part. when you get there dont get too frustrated hooking up two harness to make one negine run, I had lots of help with wiring issues with mine. It was the first time I swapped in a injected engine into a carbed body, I had to step away several times to count to 10 so I wouldnt drag it to the scrap yard.
I guess what im trying to say is VERY GOOD WORK !! dont get frustrated and dont be affraid to ask for help.
It took me a matter of 10 mins to make that :lol: If there's interest i can make more of them easily enough, but i'll test it out first to see how well it'll work
This is the starting piece i'll use to convert the tranny to use the cable clutch
The centre section spins freely on the outer sections, the outer sections were machined down to fit inside the center piece so this shaft is not hollow at all, the piece welded on the side is to hold the outer pieces together so it doesn't fall apart, i also drilled a hole through the top outer section (as you can see in the pic) that i'll later attach a grease fitting to so i don't ever have to worry about it rusting on the inside so it should never cause me troubles later on
So i plan on welded brackets to the centre section 90 degrees from each other, one for the cable to pull on to rotate the centre piece as the other bracket will have a rod attached to it that'll go to the clutch lever to pull on the clutch lever as the cable rotated the centre piece on the shaft
It should be fairly easy to complete this modification, at least a hell of a lot easier then converting my festiva to hydraulic clutch
Unfortunatly my buddy at work wasn't able to help me bring the KL-ZE home today so i won't be able to do much work to the project this weekend, but i'll do what i can
Logan, i should be working on building the bracket early next week, i started the initial piece today but i need to pull the tranny back out and bring it to work to fully build the bracket
that VRIS on the back of the intake...if its bolted on would you be able to unbolt it, make a bracket that goes higher up? You could clear that lip on the firewall, push the motor back and possibly gain and inch and a half in the front or would the manifold then be right against the steering rack? Sweet build btw that is insane. Tires are gonna smoke with all that torque lol. Keep up the good work
I've actually been more concerned with clearance at the front of the engine, the front valve cover/timing belt cover interferes with the area that the headlight bolts to so if anything i want the engine further back but the tranny is already as close to the steering rack as it can go
So for placement of the engine i'm actually very happy with it and your idea on making a bracket for the VRIS to clear that lip, i like the idea and if the time comes i will use that idea so thank you for that
drool bro that is dusgustinly sweet awsome sauce. your crazy and a genious at the same time and thats a dangerous but fun mix, man i wish i knew half the stuff you have even forgotten in your life i couldnt even fab a tri-cycle and your completely re-engeineering a car. jelous is not a extreem enough word for the way i feel drool
Thanks, that has got to be the most enthusiastic response i have have gotten ever :lol:
drool bro that is dusgustinly sweet awsome sauce. your crazy and a genious at the same time and thats a dangerous but fun mix, man i wish i knew half the stuff you have even forgotten in your life i couldnt even fab a tri-cycle and your completely re-engeineering a car. jelous is not a extreem enough word for the way i feel drool
that VRIS on the back of the intake...if its bolted on would you be able to unbolt it, make a bracket that goes higher up? You could clear that lip on the firewall, push the motor back and possibly gain and inch and a half in the front or would the manifold then be right against the steering rack? Sweet build btw that is insane. Tires are gonna smoke with all that torque lol. Keep up the good work
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