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My KLZE Festiva Build Thread

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  • sasquatch
    replied
    just gear down...

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  • Damkid
    replied
    Nah, i like power brakes

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  • Christ
    replied
    Booster delete. MUCH less work.

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  • Damkid
    replied
    Ok so i've decided to drill new mounting holes for the brake booster, i'm going to move it 1-2" towards the engine, i will also modify the brake pedal so the push rod stays paralell to the master to not cause any problems

    So tonight i took my booster off but didn't have time to start drilling new holes



    There's not a lot of room to move it over, but it's something




    I'm debating on removing the bracket on the inside as well to modify it so i can move the mounting holes further over, but it's going to be a pain in the butt to do

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  • sasquatch
    replied
    to pay for them, you bend over....

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  • fastivaB6TG25MR
    replied
    they make oval bends

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  • PhoenixSHO
    replied
    The oval stuff seems like a nice idea but , when you will arrive at the bends - that must be a PITA.

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  • Damkid
    replied
    That thought has crossed my mind as well but I've actually come up with a different idea hence why I said.........

    Originally posted by Damkid View Post
    that's the start of my idea but I'm sure I'll change the idea a bit before I'm done lol
    :lol: my second idea I think will be a trouble free issue, Im just going to double check a few things before I give details

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  • philip1
    replied
    Could I suggest trying a 90* mount for the master. An adapter bracket could be made easily with a pivot like you used for your clutch.

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  • Damkid
    replied
    Originally posted by Damkid View Post
    I honestly don't wanna redo all the piping again
    I'm sure there's room for some give, I know how M/C's work, I'm not talking about turning it on a 45 degree angle or anything like that, and id angle the master and booster as one part together and of course I will double check my work to make sure my brakes are reliable and won't give me troubles
    Last edited by Damkid; 07-05-2011, 03:15 AM.

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  • FestYboy
    replied
    don't even think about doing that, you'll torque the booster rod and you'll be putting accute stresses on the master piston assembly. taking the master off center of the booster is a BIG no no.

    instead, take the filter off, pull the turbo forward and remote mount the filter via PVC or something cheap. that then allows more room for better shielding of the MC.
    Last edited by FestYboy; 07-04-2011, 09:26 PM.

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  • Damkid
    replied
    Never thought of oval pipe to be honest, but I honestly don't wanna redo all the piping again lol

    I'm thinking to unbolt the brake booster and ad, say washers to the one side to angle the M/C away from the turbo, this will ad clearance for a multi-layered heat shield, that's the start of my idea but I'm sure I'll change the idea a bit before I'm done lol

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  • fastivaB6TG25MR
    replied
    what about using a 4" oval pipe for low clearance?

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  • Damkid
    replied
    That was my original idea for the piping, but as you could see from the pics I posted earlier, the max I can fit in front of the motor is a 2" pipe, running it the way I did let's the engine breathe better by not putting all 6 cyl worth of exhaust into a 2" pipe, once the exhaust leaves the turbo it's 2-1/2" from there to the muffler

    I've already been brainstorming ideas to insulate the M/C and I think I can make it work

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  • fastivaB6TG25MR
    replied
    you could always try to put the throttle body by the m/c and rework your exhaust to fit the turbo closer to the motor.

    i was looking at your exhaust routing and was wondering why you didnt just keep it configured closer to the way it was?

    leaving the rear exhaust to go under the motor towards the front and "Y" into the front exhaust so you only have one pipe coming in from the front and one pipe leaving towards the rear.

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