Eurotiva BP/RT build

[kumalaba]

11.90s here we come:wav:

[Zanzer]

Are you running slicks Greg?


Can't wait to see the new times! :thumbup:

[eurotiva]

That's the plan. I trapped 110.7 before, with na intake. It was out of power at 6k. Now it's pulling all the way up to 7k. I turned it to to 20 lbs, and it's unbelievable the difference. It's spinning third bad now.

[Damkid]

Good luck buddy, hope you hit 11's lol

[eurotiva]

We'll it's time....I'm planning on getting ready for some track time, so I figured id update. I'll be making some adjustments, and trying some new things.

I've turned the boost up, and those who have riden in it (Mike,Danny,Kevin,Charlie,Rhodeski,sorry if I forgot anyone) know it's going to do faster than before

Installed a boost gauge....for her pleasure...

[eurotiva]

I found a few parts for the bp I sold you Mike the spray rail and the RX7 airflow meter.
let me know if you want them cause I'm moving to Squamish at the end of the month!

?

[timbits]

I found a few parts for the bp I sold you Mike the spray rail and the RX7 airflow meter.
let me know if you want them cause I'm moving to Squamish at the end of the month!

[Advancedynamix]

Is Charlie running the Festy drum but drilling it to match the 4x100 front rotor?

Have been for a while. On mine I also cut the ridge off the outside of the drum to help dust evacuation and to lighten the drum. It works great. I have about 8k miles on this setup ( including 1200 track miles) and there is no dust in the drums at all.

[eurotiva]

Yup, and I'll be doing the same thing. And mine already has replacement drums, so i'm good to go.

RJ, I posted a pic of them on mikes car in my garage thread

Here............

[nitrofarm]

Greg, Aspire brakes are a little better, just in the fact that the calipers are less prone to sticking, and there are better pad choices for aspires (but aspire pads do fit capri calipers, so I guess that's irrelevant). You also will gain almost an inch of suspension travel back, but you may need Festiva control arms if you have aspire ones on the car now (I did, but my tranny is too far to the passenger side and that's part of the issue).
When you drill the rear drums you may want to buy aftermarket drums. The factory ones have a cross pattern cast into them on the inside designed specifically for the 4x114.3. I wasn't comfortable drilling the new stud holes in the thinner, unsupported metal. Pretty straight forward other than that. I'd use press in studs since it's less work and the finished product is stronger. I can't remember where I posted those pictures, so here they are.



Probably not real helpful, but that's all I took. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

Is Charlie running the Festy drum but drilling it to match the 4x100 front rotor?

[Flyin4stroke]

^^ I'll take 4 please...

[Advancedynamix]

Greg, Aspire brakes are a little better, just in the fact that the calipers are less prone to sticking, and there are better pad choices for aspires (but aspire pads do fit capri calipers, so I guess that's irrelevant). You also will gain almost an inch of suspension travel back, but you may need Festiva control arms if you have aspire ones on the car now (I did, but my tranny is too far to the passenger side and that's part of the issue).
When you drill the rear drums you may want to buy aftermarket drums. The factory ones have a cross pattern cast into them on the inside designed specifically for the 4x114.3. I wasn't comfortable drilling the new stud holes in the thinner, unsupported metal. Pretty straight forward other than that. I'd use press in studs since it's less work and the finished product is stronger. I can't remember where I posted those pictures, so here they are.



Probably not real helpful, but that's all I took. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

[skimsucka]

Got some new shoes for "euro"

Now I just need 4x100 brakes....

no pics boooooo!

[Aaronbrook37]

I was planning on drilling the drum in the back, but the front is a different story

Looking at Charlies thread.....

Oh damn you're right. Captive fronts, right? Hmm... maybe just do front Aspire swap? Should be pretty cheap if you're just grabbing the front stuff I suppose. Plus you get Porterfield pad access too!

[eurotiva]

I believe so, if you have or can get studs easily. Looks pretty handy too... saw it first on Charlie's build thread I think. Very convenient way to do it assuredly!

I was planning on drilling the drum in the back, but the front is a different story

Looking at Charlies thread.....