Dr Dan's B6 build

[zoe60]

Hey Doc. Where do you run your vacuum advance from? I used to have mine hooked up like original, but my idle was erratic. Best results I've had are coming out of the port on the carb under the choke. I teed the line and fed it to both ports on the distributor. Idle is much more consistent, and mileage went up slightly. Some people think that one port on thr disty retards timing and the other advances it. I've applied vacuum to each port and found that to be false. They add up and give you advance. You may already know all that but it took me some experimenting to figure it out. Hope it helps.

[zoe60]

Why, Thank you ....Thank you very much! (in an Elvis tone) :p

I'm just hoping it runs! All this work, and if it's a dud, i'm screwed

I know what you mean. All that work on a junkyard engine. Made me nervous too! I've been real happy with mine though. Good luck!

[drddan]

Alright!

Painted the darn thing :p


By drddan at 2012-06-06


By drddan at 2012-06-06

[BigElCat]

Zoe...by T-ing the vacuum line, you applied the exact same vacuum to both sides of the diaphragm. You have eliminated all vacuum advance, same as if the lines weren't even connected.

If this works for you, that's cool. You have a mechanical advance only.

The second pot on the dizzy doesn't retard the timing, it merely limits the amount of vacuum advance under certain conditions. I can see the potential to give an erratic idle. My stock carb has this problem.

[BigElCat]

I-manifold looks good Dr D!

[drddan]

Hey Doc. Where do you run your vacuum advance from? I used to have mine hooked up like original, but my idle was erratic. Best results I've had are coming out of the port on the carb under the choke. I teed the line and fed it to both ports on the distributor. Idle is much more consistent, and mileage went up slightly. Some people think that one port on thr disty retards timing and the other advances it. I've applied vacuum to each port and found that to be false. They add up and give you advance. You may already know all that but it took me some experimenting to figure it out. Hope it helps.

I was using the orig location on the B3. That will prolly change with this setup.
Also Bravekozak suggested using a single port vac advance. I think that is what he uses.
There is a link in my Weber swap thread I think.

[zoe60]

You may want to try the vacuum to both ports method for the fun of it. It will nearly double the advance, and you won't have to modify your distributor. The ported vacuum on the carb is definitely the best place to hook it to though. I think Bravekozak was who I learned that from.

[Christ]

What happens under heavy load? Many of us drive on hills, tow things, load up the back, etc... heavier load and high advance, especially at low engine speeds, can cause a pretty serious detonation issue.

[drddan]

Dont advance it so far, that it detonates!
You want that point in the timing, right before detonation. Advance til it detonates, then back off a degree or two. You can also use higher octane gas to increase the detonation point.

[zoe60]

What happens under heavy load? Many of us drive on hills, tow things, load up the back, etc... heavier load and high advance, especially at low engine speeds, can cause a pretty serious detonation issue.

I've never heard it knock since I hooked it up that way. I hope it is OK. I have an aftermarket ignition system so grounding the little plug when checking timing doesn't make any difference on my car. I run my base timing at about 12 degrees advanced. I am happier with the way it runs now than I ever have been. Still cold natured first thing in the morning. not satisfied with the Weber fast idle. Choke works fine, but fast idle drops off right away. I have a switch hooked up to my air conditioner fast idle solenoid that helps a lot in the morning. I've got those two idle up solenoids completely figured out now. Can tell you anything about them.

[Christ]

I get alot of chinky noises under load right now, I've got to check/adjust my timing again since I changed the coil. (oops, lazy me). It's not terrible, just noise.

I also have a ticking that sounds a lot like light rod knock (ugh), but it could just be a faulty exhaust gasket as well. It seems to get louder under load than idling, indicating a bad gasket seal allowing exhaust pressure to blow out.

Doesn't make a difference, really, this chassis is probably going to become the diesel swap candidate anyway. (Man, I gotta get back on that.)

[drddan]

I had a bit of a set back. The exhaust manifold is hitting the bolt that holds the coolant tube that runs under the manifold.


By drddan at 2012-06-09

The flange is way bigger than the festy one, I will need to get out the hacksaw, and saw off that unneeded flange, ruining my paint job on the manifold, I will now have to touch it up and re-bake it the oven to cure it.


I went out and got all these the other day.


By drddan at 2012-06-09

[zoom zoom]

aaw, all the wrong bolts man.. those are for asian vehicles, these are japanese, I've been informed there IS in fact a difference.

[eurotiva]

They are metric

[freshtiva]

Cant you just use a bolt instead of a the nut on a stud to avoid hitting your flange ?