rmoltis build thread 96 aspire

[rmoltis]

I didn't want to install my struts or remove my brake lines.

So I used a jack beneath each drum location
Then the jack right in center of the beam on that tab sticking out.


I loosened the bolts and used the jack to maneuver up and down.

I slid everything back to pull the assembly off the hinges.

Then I proceeded to use a 2 jaw puller to press it out from the inside.
I know, using a puller to press lol.
I made sure to silicone lubricant spray then up underneath the edges to help the removal process.
It worked great. No problems at all.


Then once done with removal.
I took the new bushings and sprayed them with the silicone lubricant as well as the bushing hole.
Then I used the 2 jaw puller to press them back inside.


Once done I slid the beam assembly back into place and bolted it up.
Making sure to reuse the white nylon washers on the side of each bushing.

Now I'm just waiting on nuts and bolts to get everything buttoned up.

Here are the old bushings.
I am suprised how good of shape they are in.
I would rate them at 7-8/10.

I didn't plan on saving them.
So the puller pressed a couple lines into the bushing shafts the first 1/16" maybe.
They are still useable if anyone wants them.
Figured out after I was done how good of shape they were in.





If anyone wants the used rear beam bushings $10+ shipping so approx $15 and I'll throw in those used front sway bar to frame bushings too.
I'd rate them at 5-6/10 simply because the cracks on the outside edges extending inward maybe 1/2"

[rmoltis]

While I am at it. I have new front and rear transmission mounts.

How difficult would this task be to undertake?
I would have to support the engine and trans somehow first.
Then drop the support.
Then remove mounts and replace.
Sand and paint the support beam.
Then put all back together.

It always sounds simple.
But what would it really take and how long?

In reality I will probably save this for a later date.
I need to get this thing back on the road.

[william]

Depends on how rusty the bolts are. :-)

[Advancedynamix]

Great tip on those bushings!

[rmoltis]

Depends on how rusty the bolts are. :-)

I would say most of my bolts are still in good enough shape to remove one time and replace with new.
With a select few looking reusable even.

I have only had 2-3 nuts give me trouble so far this project
And they came out fine with a bolt extractor.

I just want to stay ahead of any rust formations or weakening fasteners if I can.

Great tip on those bushings!

And thx advance.

The whole process maybe took 1 hr.
I was suprised how smooth it went.

[rmoltis]

Got my rear suspension buttoned up today.
Fastenal got my new lower rear strut bolts.
I put the new flange nuts I got from four green on the twist beam bushing bolts.


Got my new rear struts, king springs, rear upper and lower strut mounts and washers, strut bellow and bump stops, and coil spring isolators installed.



Here is a closeup of the custom coil spring isolator fitting flawlessy.


Here is a shot of the new lower rear strut bolts.


The rear suspension has been installed and all torqued down.
The only things left are in the front.

Fastenal ordered me a few nuts of the wrong size (too small)
So I couldn't bolt down the sway bar to frame brackets
or the lower knuckle hub assembly where it connects to the control arm 2 new nuts are needed for the pinch bolt.

Other than that everything is ready to go. Except for those eccentric lower strut mount bolts.
Which I may buy after the alignment or before. I am not sure yet.

[rmoltis]

I just visited fastenal to correct their mistaken order.

Turns out they didn't have any serrated flange lock nuts for me to use for the sway bar to frame bushing brackets
as well as the control arm to knuckle pinch bolt.

So they gave me some zinc coated steel bolts with zinc steel locknuts.
I know nuts are rated different than bolts but it is matched to a grade 10.9 bolt.

Would you guys worry about replacing a certain style fastener with another?
I.e. the flanged serrated locknuts replaced by a bolt with a locknuts washer.

It is my only option currently.
And unless someone else can guide me towards the flanged serrated lock nuts in high grade oem style.
I will just have to accept the change.

[Advancedynamix]

PM Dragonhealer. He is the Mazda fastener guru. He stocks a lot of OE Mazda fasteners. He only uses the proper fasteners on the race cars he builds, and they are immaculate machines.

[rmoltis]

I will p.m. him.

But in the meantime.
Since my vehicle is a weekend away from being finished (physical installation proccess's)

I might end up using these fasteners so I can get my car on the road and to get aligned.

My plan is to get the vehicle aligned close to factory spec. Then from there with the alignment printout.
I will use that as a baseline for what points I need to change within the alignment to get to desired results via advance.
I will get a conversation going with you after the initial alignment.
And determine what shims, camber bolts etc in the front and rear would be needed for the desired adjustment changes.

Then spend a weekend installing said shims, camber bolts, etc whatever is necessary.
Then bring it back in with my personal desired alignment settings.

That way they don't hassle me on buying parts and paying labor for something I can do at home.

[rmoltis]

I went ahead and installed and torqued down the sway bar to frame bushing brackets.
Made sure they were greased on the inside of the bracket as well as inside the bushing center.
Tq ratings were 40-50 ft lbs so I went 45 ft lbs.



I have a couple more bolts at home for the knuckle pinch bolts and new brake caliper bolts.
I forgot to bring them with me on the way to the garage.
I will swing by and pick them up. Then come back and finish up.

[rmoltis]

Anyone notice the 5 gallon bucket of soy sauce in the background?
I was just scrolling down and saw it.
Who needs 5 gallons of soy sauce?

[gergorian]

Apparently you do.

[rmoltis]

Apparently you do.

My aspire Is being stored at my friends garage.
Which %50 of said garage is shared with his upstairs neighbor.
It was on his neighbors side.

[rmoltis]

Am working on my car today on this beautiful sunny day.

I started with the rear suspension.

I noticed on the driver side I had installed the strut with the low side of the perch facing outwards.
The passenger side was correct having the high side pointing outwards.

So I made sure to disconnect the strut bottom and rotated it onto it's proper side.

Why you may ask did I do this?
Well side by side with the factory strut the perch is the exact same height.
Everyone was telling me otherwise until I measured them both via side by side comparison.

But on another note. I installed the high side of the perch facing outwards
to give myself maximum clearance available. Even if it is .5-.75"

I'm not sure if this idea has been circulated or not yet.
But I am running 15x7" rims with 185/55/r15s.
And they have about an inch clearance from the strut perch.
Kyb excel-g's 340009.

But I digress.
I got the rear end buttoned up and wheels installed.

The front end suspension has all been torqued down and inspected.
Except for the axle hub retainer stake nut.
I'm saving that for last. I need a friend to help me hold the brakes steady while I attempt to torque it down.

Front new brake system was installed and torqued into place also.
I am using ebc redstuff ceramic pads and brembo blank rotors.
Via science I have come to my own personal conclusion that flat rotors should outperform slotted or drilled.
The more surface area available on the rotor surface touching the brake pad.
The higher the thermal conductivity over time.
As well as specific heat capacity of the total brake rotor mass is higher than that of slotted or drilled rotors.

Brake rotors are specifically for wicking heat away from the brake pads.
(Theoretically their main function is turning energy into heat via friction)
But that heat has to go somewhere and not stay stored in the pads for their temp to skyrocket and have their wear rates increase.
While as a secondary function storing thermal energy to keep the brake pads operating at the correct temperatures during cold ambient conditions helping keep braking performance high in the cold and in slow or stop and go traffic/street driving.

In comparison the slotted and drilled rotors have a smaller contact area with the brake pad leading to reduced thermal conductivity as well as decreased specific heat capacity for the given mass in comparison to the blank rotor.

As well as they will heat up quickly and possibly overheat during use but once not in use lose their stored thermal energy faster than blank rotors which leads to reduced braking performance in cold ambient conditions, street driving, or just low speed driving. Or in a situation where you Need to slam on them for a short distance stop.
The first few seconds of the slam they will be cold while warming up so you will slowly feel the grip increase the longer you hold them.

While blank rotors would have enough heat stored for them to be ready for that emergency stop while being in the right temp zone.



I have had both drilled and slotted rotors as well as combo. And I personally believe that blank perform better from low speed to high. As long as you have the correct high performance pad coupled to it. You shouldn't have any adverse out gassing type situations.


I have a new set of slotted rotors sitting in my house.
But during the time waiting to install them.
I came to the conclusion through science that blank just perform better overall in theory.

Plus look at the f1 teams. No slotted rotors there. Just blank
But they use ceramic on the pad and rotor.

That's my rant.

On a side note I picked some royal purple atf for my trans refill.
As well as new oil and filter while I'm at it. I am due.
Then once done I will stake the wheel nut put the wheels on and I will be done!

alignment and tire rotation come next before any test driving is performed.
I will limp it over to Firestone cautiously to help reduce possible tire wear.

Then from there I will see what direction I need to go with things.

I am still waiting on my dimple magnet in the mail.

[rmoltis]

Just got my transmission drain plug in the mail today.


I will be going to install it today and refill my trans with royal purple atf.
I have enjoyed my oil pan dimple drain plug magnets so much I wanted more.
They are top notch drain plug magnets guys.
And made in the usa.