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Pedro the Festiva's build thread.
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yeah, I should be able to access it by just pulling the inlet air tube off. The Capri has it's ECM in the center on the tunnel behind the heater box and all the wires run basically the same way I'm running these. I have been able to shorten most of the wires going to the sensors, so (in theory) this system should work more efficiently than it did in the capri. It also allows me to remove the parts of the harness that have been eposed to years of heat and engine gunk, leaving a fresh harness. I am trying not to alter any sensitive signal wires more than 10% though, because resistance is typically calculated into the sensor calibration from the factory. There is usually a 10% window that the program compensates for though. We'll see. I'll be running my wide band o2 meter in the car while it's being tuned, and the car will be dyno tested.
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That is very interesting, putting the ECM on the pass. side. Way more accessible plus lets you customize wire routing.
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I also made a bracket to hold the ECU up behind the heater inlet tube. I'm routing most of the fuel injection wires through the passenger side fender hole. I'm using the capri rubber harness bushing to do this, it's just like the festy one, but a mirror image. I'm routing the VAF wires and the PCV/VAC solenoid wires through the drivers side for a cleaner look in the engine bay. The car won't be a totally shaved bay, just cleaned up with a nice OEM look. For now it's a disaster of wires going everywhere. lolLast edited by Advancedynamix; 03-01-2015, 02:26 AM.
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I have been wondering this for a while now, since Nate brought it up on our facebook page. This is a must-do mod for the festiva!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! now to find an aspire with power steering...
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Question (possibly a dumb one)
Does the hydraulic fluid in the rack also serve as lube for the gearing?
Or is that greased separately?
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That's a good idea. You could also glue little pieces of foam filter in them to keep the funk out.
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Correct
Direct fit
Only thing I did was fit festiva tie rods (aspire ones are longer) and I used tube benders to bend the hydraulic lines so they point down to prevent stuff from getting in the rack mechanism
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From what I've gathered, this is correct. Dragonhealer has a brand new power aspire rack that he is installing in the road racing Festiva that he is building. The race car will have functional power steering though, not de powered.
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So if I understand this correctly I can take the powered rack from an Aspire, simply drain and leave the hose connections open and install it in the Festiva. I assume I would have to retain the Festiva inner tie rods.
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Originally posted by moz View PostI've got a depowered aspire rack on mine.
When talking full turns on the steering wheel, the aspire is .75 of a turn faster than the Festiva and it has an inch more travel lock to lock.
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I've got a depowered aspire rack on mine.
When talking full turns on the steering wheel, the aspire is .75 of a turn faster than the Festiva and it has an inch more travel lock to lock.
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Originally posted by Gomez View PostCan you run the power steering rack without the pump?
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