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Pedro the Festiva's build thread.
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Just ask the Oriole's reliever, Brian Matusz what sticky substance he uses.Last edited by bravekozak; 05-24-2015, 01:51 PM.
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Originally posted by TominMO View PostQuick! Find the car that'll stomp the others on a road race course.....
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Quick! Find the car that'll stomp the others on a road race course.....
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I'm torn between swapping to a 5 speed e series and using a spec clutch or biting the bullet and installing a g15mr. I put some pretty hard track miles on the car and realised exactly how much of a difference is made by moving the engine forward. I will have to move my radiator forward to mount the G box, which means making a new lower radiator support. I already have a g15 and axles/I.M. shaft, and I don't have a 5 speed e box. With the expense of a worthy (only a clean, low mileage trans will do) donor tranny and the Spec clutch being 400 or more dollars, it makes sense to just upgrade to the G series and not worry about tranny strength or clutch slippage until I have over twice the power I have now, and have better handling and improved ride quality.
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I replaced the stock Festiva catalytic converter and remaining mild steel exhaust tubing with 2 resonators and stainless tubing. Pedro now sounds nice. The car was buzzy under hard acceleration before, and sounded very hondaesque. Now it sounds like a well tuned Miata, as it should.
Seat of the panties HP gain from this is hard to judge because the power delivery is so damn smooth. I know it's making more TQ now at about 4500rpm because it now slips the clutch in 3rd and 4th gear under hard acceleration at about 4500. I was hoping to be able to get away with this stock replacement clutch, but I guess It's time for plan B.Last edited by Advancedynamix; 05-22-2015, 09:34 AM.
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Originally posted by sketchman View PostGet rocketman to cast them.Originally posted by bhazard View Post+111111 though I'm sure they'd need finish machined
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I'll post up more detailed descriptions of all of this in the Advanced Suspension mods thread. So we don't clutter this thread too much, and so the info is easier for people to find.
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Originally posted by sketchman View PostDraw a triangle on a piece of paper with a 90 on the bottom and a 3 degree on top. Make the vertical leg the length of the distance between the top and bottom of the bolt circle for the axle stub mounting holes.
Then measure the bottom leg.
That will get you in the ballpark.
EDIT: You'd need to account for the width of the washers you'll be using too when you draw your legs, not just the bolt circle.
The plates I've made allow for a wider range of ride height choices because they can be rotated. Brad, you're a machinist, why are you using washers? LolLast edited by Advancedynamix; 05-18-2015, 02:48 PM.
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Draw a triangle on a piece of paper with a 90 on the bottom and a 3 degree on top. Make the vertical leg the length of the distance between the top and bottom of the bolt circle for the axle stub mounting holes.
Then measure the bottom leg.
That will get you in the ballpark.
EDIT: You'd need to account for the width of the washers you'll be using too when you draw your legs, not just the bolt circle.Last edited by sketchman; 05-18-2015, 11:52 AM.
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Any idea how much thickness equals how many degrees roughly? Or is it more trial and error?
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Originally posted by eurotiva View PostWashers
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