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  • shorestiva
    replied
    That's what I mean lol. Haven't decided if I want to keep the arm rest or just put some straps in for door pulls.



    I've got the rear panels roughed in but I'm probably going to swap to manual belts before I finish them.

    Started swapping the rear beam.









    The way I had my bump stop stack installed was holding water in the coilover sleeve. I was just going to clean it up and move the bump stops around, but the shaft on the one shock is pitted pretty bad so I'm just going to replace them.

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  • ricko1966
    replied
    Originally posted by shorestiva View Post
    eplastics.com You may be able to source it locally from a sign company.



    Finished passenger side for now. Still debating what to do about the arm rest.
    If you don't actually need arm rests door pulls could be fabbed easy from 10 inch long strips from a leather belt

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  • shorestiva
    replied
    eplastics.com You may be able to source it locally from a sign company.



    Finished passenger side for now. Still debating what to do about the arm rest.

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  • ricko1966
    replied
    Those look awesome! where did you order your abs sheets from? Thanks
    Originally posted by shorestiva View Post
    1/8in abs plastic sheet. You could probably go thinner I just guessed when I ordered.
    Last edited by ricko1966; 08-25-2017, 09:32 PM.

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  • shorestiva
    replied
    1/8in abs plastic sheet. You could probably go thinner I just guessed when I ordered.

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  • chrisofna
    replied
    What board is that for the door? I got some messed up speaker holes from the previous owner that I need to fix.

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  • shorestiva
    replied


    Test fit

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  • shorestiva
    replied
    Started on redoing the interior





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  • shorestiva
    replied
    Yeah. Machine shop screwed up first time so had to drill them a second time. That's why there's 3 sets of holes now.

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  • hofficergrover
    replied
    You get the festiva drum drilled for the aspire pattern?

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  • ricko1966
    replied
    Another way would be too thin of shim and a ring of solder tighten tell a ll end play is gone meaure your solder and shim

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  • ricko1966
    replied
    Originally posted by FestYboy View Post
    ^ oops!

    Just out of curiosity, can you get an accurate measurement of the gap between the outer races and see how that correlates with the "correct" shim? I'm working on a theory.
    If I wanted to check that measurement I would start with a shim I knew the measurement of and was to thick check my end play and buy a shim say your check shim was 13 your end play was 1mm you would need to subtract 1mm and bearing preload to know the thickness of your required shim.

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  • shorestiva
    replied
    Finally got my festiva drums turned down so now I can swap back to the festiva beam.

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  • ryanprins13
    replied
    Yea, they arent really that expensive from rockauto. I always got cheap ones locally or on ebay because i didnt know about rockauto until a year and a half ago or so. The tie rod ends and ball joints never lasted long.
    Another tip- make sure the washers on the sway bar are smooth and not pitted or rough before i stalling the new bushings. If they are rough they tear up the bushings pretty quick.

    Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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  • shorestiva
    replied
    Originally posted by ryanprins13 View Post
    This was just discussed a bit in this thread. https://fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60894
    Short answer is moog or acdelco if you want it to last. I think ill be buying the moog ones this fall to replace the cheap amazon ones i bought not very long ago which wore out right away...

    Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
    Sweet thanks. That's what I thought but wanted to hear it from someone else before I ordered some.

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