something something.... DANGER ZONE!

[shorestiva]

It felt good for a few days now it starts acting up every once and a while. Probably going to throw a new cap and rotor at it. Really need to finish welding up a header for it and get the wideband/datalogger on it. Had some douches in a beat dodge shadow revving up at me sitting at a stoplight yesterday. Probably could've taken it but I'm not that confident yet. Need a few more hp and to loose a few lbs. :sad11:

[festyfreak39]

looks good buddy!!!!!!

I'm doing something similar, the fast car is tucked away because i have no inspiration as of late. My car is getting suspension, a b6 swap and some seats and that is it! going to just enjoy driving a festiva instead of having one sit in the back corner of my garage.

[shorestiva]

Lowered cars really suck sometimes. Ran over a deer carcass on the way to work fri. Jacked it up and power washed the underside as soon as I got to work but it still smells pretty bad. It has a small exhaust leak somewhere and a good size dent in the bottom of the gas tank now.

[shorestiva]

Yesterday I started on the nb booster/master swap.

NB booster has a fitting like this on it.


You will need to remove the bolt and fitting and plug the hole. I just used a m10x1.0 bolt cut down to the correct thread length with a sealing washer.



Other than that all the ports are in the same spot as the stock master. The brake fluid level sensor is the same as the stock festy one but has a different connector on it so you fill need to swap the sensor from your festiva master. Also had to find a longer hose to reach the booster vacuum port.



If you just try to bolt it all in without extending the brake pedal. You will end up with your brake pedal looking like this. (I had to text charlie to figure out wtf I did wrong) Luckily I had enough pedal travel I was able to drive home to where my welder is. Brake lights were stuck on the whole way but managed to make it without any problems. Was prety pissed at it by this point so I said f'it and hopped on the bike for the rest of the day.


This morning I welded on a tab to extend the pedal. Ended up being a little long and kinda low but it worked.


All drilled, trimmed, painted and ready to go back in. Getting the pedal return spring back in was a pita.


Brakes feel a lot better and my pedal engagement point doesn't float around anymore. (had a bad master) Still have a little bit of a pull to the right under hard braking but I'm pretty sure one of my calipers is sticking.

[shorestiva]

A few weeks ago I was out in Phoenix on vacation. I met up with charlie for a bit and he showed me this.....



WHAAAAAAAT? A B6D with a vics intake manifold? Did not know they made such a thing. So after thinking about it for a week or two I said screw it and bought it. I've been planning on swapping another 6d into a festy ever since I drove pedro last year. Had been planning on just rebuilding one of the ones that I have laying around but this seems like a better idea. Its already all together plus I've never seen another one lol.

After some searching it looks like it came in familia gt in japan (323). Seems like they're kinda rare from what my limited google abilities are finding.




It was delivered this week.


Only real differences I can find from a "normal usdm" capri engine is the intake manifold.

A cast 4-2-1 exhaust manifold


And slight difference in coolant port placement on the intake manifold.


Really excited about this. Would have tried to swap it this weekend but I need to make the lower section (2-1) of the exhaust manifold since it didn't come with it. Plan right now is to drop in with megasquirt since the b3 ecu doesn't have vics control.

[shorestiva]

Its begun........

[shorestiva]

old clutch


new exedy


Scuffed up the flywheel a little


ready to go in



its in just need to make a passenger mount


tight fit with this intake manifold



passenger mount done

[Advancedynamix]

Looking good! I'm a little jealous that you have that engine. It's going to be a nice upgrade.

Also, I never noticed how you addressed the booster problem. I always just weld a spacer onto the clevis that screws onto the booster shaft. Welding brake pedals freaks me out because it could weaken the pedal. I'd like to compare the 2 different methods to see if the feel is any different.

[shorestiva]

Shouldn't have shown me it lol. Post 34 in this thread I just welded a extension onto the pedal. The pedals on these are pretty thick and my extension is kinda long with about the same thickness. I wouldn't think it'd have a noticeable effect on feel but you know more about how heat affects it.

[jason_]

Welding weakens? Ubless the material is odd, I can't imagine..

Unless in a situation of poor bond, the welding bead itself is stronger then the material it's welded to.

Proper preheat and proper cool down to avoid shock, really shouldn't be an issue unless 2 incompatible materials are attempted to be glued together.



Sent from my One using Tapatalk

[Advancedynamix]

Shouldn't have shown me it lol. Post 34 in this thread I just welded a extension onto the pedal. The pedals on these are pretty thick and my extension is kinda long with about the same thickness. I wouldn't think it'd have a noticeable effect on feel but you know more about how heat affects it.

I'm more concerned with the difference in geometry. You've altered the relation between the fulcrum and the pivot. Also, this changes the way that stress is applied to the pivot. The pressure that the booster rod sees is substantial under heavy braking. The part that is welded on may try to twist the pedal more than the original mounting location.

Welding weakens? Ubless the material is odd, I can't imagine..

Unless in a situation of poor bond, the welding bead itself is stronger then the material it's welded to.

Proper preheat and proper cool down to avoid shock, really shouldn't be an issue unless 2 incompatible materials are attempted to be glued together.



Sent from my One using Tapatalk

There is a LOT more to engineering a part than just "adding metal makes it stronger".

1. Any time metal is welded, the part is now under internal stress that stays in the part unless it's heat treated to remove that stress or it breaks. This is not good in a critical part that is cycled often (i.e. brake pedal).
2. Welding creates a Heat Affected Zone around the weld. This HAZ area is weaker than the original metal was before welding. Certain metals become brittle in this area and others become soft. Also, any welding flaws could lead to cracking of the part.
3. Making a part more rigid, doesn't necessarily make it stronger. Parts have been designed to flex a certain way and distribute load a certain way. When a part has been modified by adding material, it can cause the load to be unevenly distributed, or cause the load to be distributed to the incorrect area of the part. This often causes premature failure of modified parts.
4. Altering the geometry of a critical part is not a task to be taken lightly. Components like brake parts are designed by the best engineers that the company has on staff. These guys get paid well, and the parts undergo millions of dollars worth of tests before they are put on a consumer vehicle. This must be taken into consideration before altering any safety related part on a car. I consult with half a dozen automotive engineers when I alter brake parts or suspension parts. This way I know that what I'm doing will not jeopardize my life or the lives of those around me any more than I already do (We all know I don't need help being dangerous).

[shorestiva]

I'm more concerned with the difference in geometry. You've altered the relation between the fulcrum and the pivot. Also, this changes the way that stress is applied to the pivot. The pressure that the booster rod sees is substantial under heavy braking. The part that is welded on may try to twist the pedal more than the original mounting location.

Would using a coupling nut and some threaded rod to extend the rod coming out of the booster work? Only slight geometry change and no added heat in components.

I had to get creative to hook up all the coolant lines. Its not pretty but should hopefully work without rubbing holes in everything. I deleted the lines running to the throttle body so that made it slightly easier. Still need to come up with a upper rad hose. The stock b3 one is 2 inches short of reaching the radiator.





Slowly getting there.


Mounted another purge solenoid to control the vics.



Still waiting on exhaust and intake parts to show up but it looks like I might have it done in time. As a little extra motivation to get it done I signed up for a scca track night at njmp on 8/10 so I need to have to running by then.

[Advancedynamix]

Would using a coupling nut and some threaded rod to extend the rod coming out of the booster work? Only slight geometry change and no added heat in components.
.

I prefer to weld a 3/4" long spacer between the nut and the bent steel part of the clevis itself. This weld is loaded in compression when it's being worked and the factory welds the part there. The geometry remains unchanged.

I may have a picture somewhere. Others have documented the same mod on the forum but I'm not good with the search.

[shorestiva]

Ah I get it. Oh well I'll worry about that on the next one.


Opened up the harness and shortened the wiring for the vaf.


Extended the wires for the disty and coolant temp sensor.


Started on the exhaust



Just barely clears the cv boot.


As far as I got. Its been to freaking hot to do anything after work this week.

[Advancedynamix]

That downpipe is coming out nicely. This thing is going to rip.