Rob's Mazda 121

[moz]

Not sure about radius rods

I'm hoping someone else can chime in here and clear up what happens if you use the wb/aspire lca's.

I'm pretty sure it's got something to do with the cv joints popping out. But I can't remember exactly. I know it wasn't so much the camber that was the problem

[robotrob]

just looking on http://www.repcotrade.com.au/files/d...tcatalogue.pdf and WA and WB driveshaft assemblies are the same part number NSA537 and NSA538, pretty sure theres about 3-4cm play at the inner joints and i only need an extra 1cm per side, using WB LCAs on my 121 shouldnt be mechanically any different than a WB itself

also i have cut 1.5 coils off the WB springs to get standard height but i plan to cut at least another coil off, maybe once you lower a WA the change of roll angle + 10mm difference puts the difference out of spec, ill have to look into it but i think it might just be superstition

[moz]

Yeah I'm inclined to agree.

There was something about those lca's but I can't remember exactly.

I'm hoping that somebody chimes in and confirms or debunks it.

[robotrob]

also now that im looking into it, the NSA126 and NSA125 auto driveshafts in my donor are same as capri non turbo auto and manual, KA to KE laser auto and manual, and up to BF/W 323. might have to pull those out and keep them.

what series gearbox would that make them fit do you know?

it also lists the outer cvs as different between turbo and non turbo capris, but doesnt list the inners. so i know non turbo capri axles fit my hubs and are the right length for something

[moz]

Turbo Capri/tx3 has a solid half shaft from box to drivers side (pass side in America). These had a g series 5 speed box.

All other kc-ke laser, non turbo 323 and Capri had the f series.

I don't know much about auto boxes though.

Main differences in cv's are length, and number of splines on either end. There's an entire thread dedicated to just that if you use the search function

[robotrob]

just caught my eye that WB 1.5 auto and manual use the same driveshafts and WB 1.3 manual uses same as WA 1.3 manual... so WAs and WB 1.3 must use an E-series and WB 1.5 uses a cable F-series?

i guess ill just go quietly cross reference mackay rubber's gearbox mount catalogue to see if my crossmember needs work to fit an f series

[robotrob]

http://www.mackayrubber.com.au/pdf/enginemount_web.pdf the guy that wanted the 4 speed auto might find this info handy,

theres a fair few different combinations of mounts listed but it says 98 auto and manual uses same mounts
the rear mount for the 4 speed auto is the same as the front mount for 1.3 5 speeds, but theres still 3 different ones depending on 48mm studs, 48mm bolts or 60mm studs
i dont think alot of effort was put into the festiva section and im having problems interpreting the info but it also seems the drivers/passengers mount is unique between a) WB 1.5 auto or manual b) WB 1.3 auto or manual and WA auto and C) WA manual. and it doesnt list a front mount for 1.5 auto but 1.3 auto front mounts are the same parts as listed for 1.5 auto rear mounts.. lol, someone that wants a 4 speed auto more than i do might want to look further into it.

ive determined that automatic WA drivers side and front mounts are interchangeable with WB auto and manual but only the rear is only listed as manual for WA and it doesnt match anything available for WB but thats probably because its for an E series box

so when i get up in the morning i need to pull the LCAs and driveshafts, mounts and crossmember off the auto box before i can let it go to scrap.. and the exhaust

i probably could search but do F and G series boxes use the same axles?

[moz]

F & G use different axles as far as I'm aware.
I've never worked on an f box.

If you want to switch to manual it'll be easier if you go to the wreckers and pick up a manual cross member. There's a few different cross members for the festiva.

As far as the boxes go. I don't know about the USA, but I did notice that at some point they did away with the e series box and the 3 speed auto which the Wb festiva shared with the wa.
That's probably why the part numbers are all over the place.

And yes, now I'm starting to remember the story with the lca's. If you use the wb axles then you should use the wb lca's. Or something like that

[robotrob]

my mazda 121 is already manual so all good there just want to upgrade from E-series to F-series.. thanks for the heads up on the crossmembers

[robotrob]

Just finished doing the fronts

1.5 coils chopped off the aspire springs seems to be just taller than standard, how many coils do people normally chop from aspire springs to fit festivas?

Also using the WB aspire struts hubs and tie rod ends on WA LCAs and I seem to have slight positive camber:


I guess I need the longer ones?

[robotrob]

also does anybody know why you need the wb/aspire tie rod ends, because comparing them to the WA/festiva ones they arent any longer just the WA ones are a straight 90 degree and the WB are more of a hook turn for clearance im guessing?.. my mazda didnt have a washer under the nut for the tie rod so when i put the new one on i didnt use one either and the nut bottomed out on the thread before the rod end seated.. pain in the arse to undo it again and then hunt around for 2 washers lol

counted the old tie rods off 19 turns and put the new ones on 19 turns and i cant fault the wheel alignment.. ill still take it in for one just for piece of mind and it would be nice to have a full printout

[moz]

They look identical but the angle on the cone is slightly different.

Use aspire ones or you will learn why you should have when your steering wheel starts to shake violently

[robotrob]

ahh nice, yea i thought they gave me the wrong ones when i did the nut all the way up and they still werent seated lol, took it for a spin around the block and i was wondering what the knocking noise was when i remembered i hadnt tightened up any of the top hats on the struts lol.. apart from that it is an insane improvement, less body roll, way better steering.. feels firmer and more planted

investment into the project so far:

Mazda 121 $350
Festiva $230
Tie rods $54
brake fluid $9
under seat -$6
WB LCAs $40
total: $677

ive put the brand new WB radiator on gumtree for $100
havent had much luck finding someone to pick up the shell for $50, maybe i need to put the front hubs and wheels back on so i stop asking people if the have a hiab lol
if i can get that $150 back ill be $527 in and if i can pick up a capri turbo donor for $5-600 i should have a fast little mazda for under $1200

[moz]

Rob
Just to confirm. You've fitted the aspire hubs right?

If so- yes- use aspire tie rod ends.

[robotrob]

TE968 FORD FESTIVA WB OUTER, i went out and bought two brand new ones from veale auto parts for $27 each i just thought i read someone say you need to use the wb/aspire ones to have enough thread for correct toe adjustment and wanted to clarify any misinformation.. i was comparing the tapers and couldnt spot a difference by eye, just the WB one has a hook turn style clearance to clear the steering arm on the hub

ill get a pic of WA and WB ones side by side so anyone thats interested can see what i mean