Just another build thread

[dliverance]

I was able to get a little bit of work done this weekend. I'm not going to stress too much about the motor being tight. I'm hoping it't because of the hone but I'm going to run it before I just tear it down. If it runs, I'm only going to run it for a year or so until I finish building my high compression bottom end.

Between yesterday I was able to go back and loc tite all of the oil pan bolts, install the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, new bearings and bolt the trans to the motor. The only thing I have left before I can install the motor is cleaning the subframe, moving over some brackets and mounts and removing the old exhaust. Hopefully I can knock this stuff out during the week so I can drop the motor in on saturday.

Check out my sweet flywheel locking tool. It was made for my FD but it works great on these motors too.

[dliverance]

First, The Force runs deep with you, wish I had your body and paint skills, amazing work!
On the engine, I'm assuming you know B series builds and have checked everything thouroly before assembly. The few times i've had one that tight, it proved to be a tight oil ring package (I mean all four). They all ran, but created more friction than I wanted and lead to early heating on the track.
you might want to fit a bell housing and starter and fill er with oil, crank for 30 seconds, wait 2 minutes and repeat and see if she smoothes out and sounds right. I do this with the plugs out.

I'm hoping to have the motor in the bay next weekend. I'll give this a shot. Also, thank you.

Are you using stock valve springs or double springs and would that make a difference? Have you tried turning it over with the distributor pulled out to see if that might be binding it up? Idk...just throwing things out there.

I'm using all stock springs. I'm going to dig deeper this afternoon when I wake up.

[wwwdotgov]

Are you using stock valve springs or double springs and would that make a difference? Have you tried turning it over with the distributor pulled out to see if that might be binding it up? Idk...just throwing things out there.

[Dragonhealer]

First, The Force runs deep with you, wish I had your body and paint skills, amazing work!
On the engine, I'm assuming you know B series builds and have checked everything thouroly before assembly. The few times i've had one that tight, it proved to be a tight oil ring package (I mean all four). They all ran, but created more friction than I wanted and lead to early heating on the track.
you might want to fit a bell housing and starter and fill er with oil, crank for 30 seconds, wait 2 minutes and repeat and see if she smoothes out and sounds right. I do this with the plugs out.

[dliverance]

Scary. I winder if the fresh hone and packed bearings is making that much of a difference.

[Advancedynamix]

Less than 10 ft.lbs to spin it with plugs out. This engine had been run though.

[dliverance]

I've got a b6t on an engine stand in my shop. I'll check to see what it spins at tonight.

I would really appreciate that.

[Advancedynamix]

I've got a b6t on an engine stand in my shop. I'll check to see what it spins at tonight.

[FestYboy]

Those numbers don't sound out of hand for a fresh build, buy I agree that a comparison is in order.

[dliverance]

I couldn't bring myself to part it out. Right now the plan is to swap my good cam into it and sell it for what I paid for it. I will be swapping hatches though since mone has a dent that I dont want to repair. The previous owner said the timing if off and I found the cam gear retainer pin stripped. Should be an easy fix.

When I got home a few minutes ago I decided to use my torque wrench and see at what point the motor would turn. Its turning between 25 and 28 ft lbs in the difficult spots and at about 15 on the easy spots. I used red line assembly lube on the cams, bearings and oil pump. I put a light layer of oil on the cylinder walls as well. Maybe I'm just over thinking it though. I'll have to see what a miata engine breaks free at without spark plugs.

[FestYboy]

My son's been in town so I haven't had much time to work on the car but I did secure a second festiva today. It's an 88 4 speed and its white. Yay. I'm not sure if I want to put my swap into it, swap its parts over to mine, shelf all of the parts and scrap the shell or what. I'm leaning pretty close to swapping parts and selling it to a friend of mone though.

Here it is.



It's pretty clean in person. I really want the doors, fenders, hood and hatch. I'd also be swapping the quarter windows for the tint. The ignition and locks might be a good bonus as well.

Don't scrap it if the shell is clean, we need as many on the road as possible! Spread the love.

As for the turning effort, is there any lube on the bearings and bores? Nothing should be dry inside the engine even if you haven't added oil.

[dliverance]

I was hoping to bolt the tranny to the engine this weekend and get them installed so I can finalize the swap but I ran into something that concerns me. With the head on, the timing belt on and the spark plugs out, the motor is kind of tough to crank manually. It feels tighter than I personally think it should. I'm pretty sure I got the timing belt on properly and this wasn't my first timing belt rodeo but I doubt the valve springs would make it this hard to turn. I'm really hoping I don't have to tear everything apart and start all over.

[dliverance]

My son's been in town so I haven't had much time to work on the car but I did secure a second festiva today. It's an 88 4 speed and its white. Yay. I'm not sure if I want to put my swap into it, swap its parts over to mine, shelf all of the parts and scrap the shell or what. I'm leaning pretty close to swapping parts and selling it to a friend of mone though.

Here it is.



It's pretty clean in person. I really want the doors, fenders, hood and hatch. I'd also be swapping the quarter windows for the tint. The ignition and locks might be a good bonus as well.

[dliverance]

After about 6 hours of headache I finally figured out how to run the distributor vacuum lines with a dcoe setup. For anyone that plans to run dcoe's with the b3 distributor, here's what you need to know. The dcoe has a "ported" vacuum port right next to the progression holes cover and the idle mix screw. This vacuum port is M5 thread. The fitting you need is M5 x the diameter of barb on distributor in mm (will update when i get home and can check with micrometer). The large can on the distributor goes to the fitting I just mentioned and the small can goes to manifold vacuum (anywhere after the throttle plate).

[dliverance]

I just ordered my aspire thermostat housing. Trying to make sure I have the misc bits covered. I absolutely love waiting a week for gaskets and fittings :/