OverKILL!

[Advancedynamix]

My best guess is that your chassis will be quite twisted after this. Harbor Freight sells their version of a port a power now. I haven't tried it, but this would be where I'd go get one.
Welding sheet metal seriously distorts and shrinks it. The more you weld, the more it'll distort and shrink. That's why car bodies are spot welded and glued together rather than CJP.

[mikemounlio]

My best guess is that your chassis will be quite twisted after this. Harbor Freight sells their version of a port a power now. I haven't tried it, but this would be where I'd go get one.
Welding sheet metal seriously distorts and shrinks it. The more you weld, the more it'll distort and shrink. That's why car bodies are spot welded and glued together rather than CJP.

I will take my time! Spot wled very inch or so skip around clean each spot. Ill do my best to keep only enough heat as needed into it to do the job. My front core support, and bumper will help hold it all in place. Im not worried about it. Im not working on a show car here. I just need it to hold together!

[Advancedynamix]

Those frame rails are what locate the front end, so your front end support will not restrain the welded area from warping. You'll need to keep an eye on the relationship between your suspension mounting locations. 1/8" of difference is pretty easy to feel in a car with over 150ft.lbs of TQ. You could possibly make a fixture to restrain the chassis from the sway bar mounts to control arm mounts. This distance is very critical to a well behaved car. The relation from your control arm mount to strut top is also very important.
It doesn't take much to throw these distances off 1/4" or more. This has nothing to do with looking pretty. A twisted chassis will be unpredictable under acceleration and braking force. These cars are more susceptible to problems related to being out of square than most. This is because of the lack of sub structures that locate important dimensions. The lack of sub structures is also the reason these cars are so light and work so well. The sword is double edged.
I'm not just saying this stuff, I've welded on them and I've driven them after welding and I've driven Festivas that have been hacked up and I've driven them with swaps that were done as though the factory did it. I wouldn't put that much power into a twisted chassis. Once it's welded, it's really hard to make right. You may want to take time to make sure it comes out straighter than it was when you started.

[ryanprins13]

http://3mcollision.com/3m-panel-bonding-adhesive-08115.html

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[mikemounlio]

Ill do the best i can. If it does not work out i have 2 other rust free car to give a try to. Im not worried. Ill take my time and she will be just fine.

[Advancedynamix]

Use a tape measure to measure the front sway bar mount bolt to the control arm bolt. Measure straight back and cross over to the other side. Do what you need to do to keep these measurements the same on both sides. I'm trying to give you hints and tips so that you don't have to do all this all over again. Taking your time and being careful not to get things hot only does so much, and if the chassis is already bent, then things will not get better if you don't do this correctly.

[mikemounlio]

I think i will add in some 2x4 across the frame and tie them all together. If i can find a way to ratchet strap the frame to the 2x4 frame that might help. I plan to weld very slowly. Im hoping it works out.

Only got out to the garage Friday night. Saturday and Sunday the wife and i hung out and had a great time. Its back to the car tonight tho. Gonna finish up the top mount and start on the lower rear if i get time.

[mikemounlio]

got a bit more done on the mounts today! Top and front mounts are done now! Tomorrow i finally start the lower rear mount.

[mikemounlio]

I screwed up! I made my mount on the top and then set up the motor and made the front lower. When i made the front lower the weight of the motor was not on the cross member but on jack stands. When i got to around to the lower rear mount i was all kinds of screwed. I had to take the front off and let the weight of the motor rest on the cross member but blocked up to how i want it to sit in its natural position. Tonight i hope to have the front lower fixed and on. I have looked over the rear and i think i will be able to make the rear with not much issue.

I will have the motor fully mounted and in place this week. Then i mark the areas on the frame to restore! I hope to have it all complete this weekend and ready for tuning.

[mikemounlio]

Front lower mount is redone yet again. This time the motors weight is on the cross member and in the right location. Tonight i will start on the rear mount. So ready to get this car going again.

[mikemounlio]

All mounts are now complete. Time to work on the frame.

[mikemounlio]

Im excited to work on the next step in this process knowing that the motor is all squared away. Tonight i pull the motor out for i hope the last time in a while! I need to fix the frame, install the rio rack, and put her all back together. That will take me several days tho.

[mikemounlio]

I have been very busy on the car lately! Even had the wife in the garage plastidipping her car as i work on mine. Frame repair is in full swing. Day one i boxed in the rear portion of the cutout i made. Day 2 i boxed in the front half of the frame and tied it to the rear frame box. I used one long plate that was bent to the exact shape and cut to fit to tie it all together. Tonight i will add plate to the inside wall of the frame. I will add the plate in 2 parts. @ parts so that i can make the angle easier to hold and to have a corner for support. The plates will be held in by a strong type of glue as well as welded. I will drill a couple holes in the plates to allow for a small plug weld to help grab the frame better. The plates will then be welded to the section that i already have in place. Once the plates are in place i will add a cover plate to tie tit all together and finish the stock looking frame.






I spot welded it all! I went slow trying to keep it nice and cool. I didnt want to build up lots of heat. I hope it holds. If it doesnt i will swap to another rust free shell and just bash the frame rail with a BFH. Overkill has some front end damage anyway so its not like im messing up a perfect car. I bet once all done it will be just fine. I hope i can adjust the alignment to fix any issues with the frame. This is in front of most of the critical stuff anyway. Wish me luck. I cant get better if i dont try! I cant learn if i dont try. We all know i like to learn the hard way to...

[Advancedynamix]

The most critical stuff is the sway bar mount to control arm mount relationship. This is right in the middle of all the critical (and not easily adjustable) stuff.

[mikemounlio]

The most critical stuff is the sway bar mount to control arm mount relationship. This is right in the middle of all the critical (and not easily adjustable) stuff.

Well it is what it is. Im am going slow and easy! Sway bar is already mounted to both the think 1/4" angle and the rest of the frame and to the control arm. All i can do now is cross my fingers. Besides i have never raced before. I have no race feel. This car will already be a handfull to handle even at low boost. I dont think i will be able to nitice if its bad or not. You might be able to feel it right off the line but i dont think i will be able to tell.