.... I have a good bit of vibration/wobble but I think that is from the Hub Bore not matching. Would the best way to fix be to just upgrade to Lug Studs?
I would recommend that you get a set of hubcentric rings to keep things in alignment. The studs will help but not as much as going with the properly sized rings. Another thing to look at is the nut/bolt seat. On some wheels it's a ball or round (some VWs for example), on others its tapered. Stock Festiva is tapered. If your wheels have ball seats and you're using tapered lug bolts that could also contribute to the wobbling issue.
Firebush, the back looks great. Real good man. I have wanted to strip the interior to replace the big interior plastics but Ive not done it in the extent of unknown there. Do you possibly or could you have any other pics of the job/end results. OR where on ff would I find similar pics where ppl have stripped interior as I haven't found them yet. Great job again
Finally got the new tires for the wheels I bought a while back. I ended up with the 165/55/14 like charlie had recommended. I only got to ride down to the store and back but I can tell there is a big difference in the handling. I have a good bit of vibration/wobble but I think that is from the Hub Bore not matching. Would the best way to fix be to just upgrade to Lug Studs?
While replacing the PCV valve on the B6T I removed the hose to the IAC valve to make things easier to get to. Discovered that the outlet had a plug in it and I have no idea how it got there😮! Thankful it didn't get sucked through the throttle body...
Took out the AC Evaporator last night and then ran the nitrous line through the firewall. Decided that I will have to make a bracket to mount the Solenoids to the Firewall but I did get to install the purge lines though.
I found a Bonus behind the dash... A full unopened pack of Doral Full Flavors, if it is as old as the registration renewal paperwork next to it then they may be around 17 years old lol.
Oh okay, I use the same thing for now but my speaker is mostly round so I just let it sit in the glove box with a charger attached. That will all change soon though, I ordered a new Pioneer MVH-X560BT Head Unit. It isn't a CD Player but a Digital Media Receiver so it is a little shorter but has 6 Outputs on the back for easy subwoofer installation.
Also after struggling to find tires in the size that I wanted, I finally found some at Simpletires.com that should be in today. Ended up going with what Charlie recommended, 165/55/14s. Hope to get them mounted this weekend.
Rear Breaks and wheel bearings.
When checked breaks, the wheel bearing seals on both sides leaked. Backing plate had lots of WB grease splattered everywhere. Removed backing plates to clean everything, fresh coat of black heat/exhaust manifold paint for backing plates.
General clean off dust and mud residue under real wheel arches, remove plastic mud flaps etc, blow out dust.
Started looking at where to run Nitrous lines, the kit I have is a used Wet setup so the lines from the solenoids to the nozzle aren't the longest. I'm pretty sure that I will run the line up the right hand side of the car and mount the Solenoids somewhere at the bottom near the bumper bar and then run the nozzle through the bottom of the stock intake tube near the filter box. Now for the question of the easiest way to tap into the fuel line and where to put the purge solenoid.
Changed the oil and advanced the timing on my B6T car. The timing change produced some very big grins!!!! Turns out i had it too close to TDC and I think there's still some room for adjustment 😊
Yes but I do not have pics, I have a 95 Dodge Cummins pick up with a full sized box, I built stands to put at the front of the box for the front wheels to sit on and the rear wheels were 50/50 on the edge of the tail gate. Good luck if you do this and yes it can be done.
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