I somehow fixed my Aspire's rear hatch lock cylinder, which inexplicably wouldn't take the key at Starbucks. I didn't get anywhere trying to get a small screwdriver or paperclip in- although the clip at least went in. No I had to take the damn inside trim off and unclip the whole unit- by then I was expecting I'd have to try to order a replacement
Yet BEHOLD! Once I fiddled a little with it in my hands, some small tiny bit fell out of the only place on the edge it could have possibly gotten there somehow and with that the cylinder turns normally again-
I'm glad I still have my micro car, but old cars can sure be a pain.
Below- NOT Aspire part
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I kicked my backside out into the driveway and got through the old steering rack removal, which I hoped I could do without disturbing either of the old tie rod ends because I had to measure exactly how far apart the ball joint bolts were (until I run it to an alignment place I know).
I'm also going to pull the shift linkage - right away I saw where a whole trailer load of play was getting into the movement. It looked like the owner before me (OBM?) used some undersized brass tubing in the joint tubes that never did fit well. I wonder if there's a hard plastic tube resistent to heat that would fit it? Rubber tubing might work, but for how long? I've seen ides about it on here, I wonder what the best trick is, that tightens it up to a track spec???
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Since I had to drop my gas tank because my fuel pickup sock disintegrated, I decided to swap out the old rusty bolts with some stainless wide flange M8 ones that I bought on the bay.
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Here is the old cast iron Escort master cylinder bolted to the Festiiva vacuum chamber,
I thought you would like to see how much clearance there is between the battery,
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Originally posted by bravekozak View PostI had the tip of my Festiva pushrod precision welded to retain the Escort rubber that centers the pushrod in the bore
The mcro welding was done by Advanced Laser and Microwelding in Mississauga.
Nice.
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I had the tip of my Festiva pushrod precision welded to retain the Escort rubber that centers the pushrod in the bore
The mcro welding was done by Advanced Laser and Microwelding in Mississauga.
Nice.
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Finally got around to installing my air/oil separator...
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Hose on the left comes from the valve cover, hose on the right comes from the factory block vent, center hose vents to the intake between the VAF and the turbo. There's a hose coming off the bottom that drains to the factory inlet on the oil pan.
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KeyCylWare.jpg
My solution to swapping out key cylinders is to use an upgraded bolt that is easy for ME to remove
But I doubt any car thief has the sockets for
I now have keys for both my mad rides, and will soon have another cylinder with a new key set
My youngest was a locksmith for a while, and his advice was that if you can bring a thing like the above to a locksmith shop you can get a key done for around $50
If you had to have a key made on site while you showed your ID and registration to the man...
It would be over $150
Member STUDEBAKER let me rob the above out of one of his donor cars
In exchange, I helped him drag it to his back lot...
(THANK YOU!)
* It is explained elsewhere here at the forums how to remove the "PERMANENT" bolts that hold this part to the column
The logic behind my selection of bolts is simple:
It is easy to order a socket bit set that fits those fastener heads, but a car thief will not have them
That metal (stainless) is extremely resistent to chisel points and blades
The shape of the head is rounded and low profile
The sockets for it fit much nicer than a wrench or socket in a tight place
That's what makes it a diamond choice
Anything that slows a chop shop down gives a LO-JACK more time to work
***sssnnniikkkerrrezzz***
You can order those and the bits that fit them all over the place
Here is the AMAZON link:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The bits you can find easilyLast edited by Greywolf; 07-07-2019, 09:37 PM.
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It's on the street!
I DID IT!!!
` and it rips like a deranged chain saw on wheels...
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The Blue Choo Choo is about on the street
91 with a B6T that needs a ton of smoothing out, but I decided sometimes it's quicker and better to upgrade what is right under my hip pockets than to have a garage queen
I'll give it one more tweak, and hang the tag on the back, I think it needs some battery cable TLC
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Rear drums, bearings, shoes. It's great last year I repacked the bearings and turned out I didn't torque the nut to spec so the passenger bearing started eating itself.
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Installed a new Tie Rod End and Rebooted an OEM CV Axle. Also found out that my #3 Spark Plug went bad and that is why my B3 was spitting and sputtering so badly.
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Well a yesterday i did this!
Did some more on the semi-custom sideskirts to suit my 98' Spire.
Then got to work on a semi-custom wing off a Daihatsu Terios.
and another.
And this rude but symmetrical hole. Btw this wing
has a light built in. SCORE!
Yep. Check out my build threads over at Fordaspire.com!
Links are all in my sig!Last edited by Glow_Mouse; 12-18-2018, 09:29 PM.
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those springs are header collector springs for a vw header. They are using tension springs attached to tabs. I used two today to fix my leaky head pipe. Used a radiator hose clamp to attach them at the head pipe pulled them tight and hooked them to the convertor flange.If I hadn't had them laying around I think I could have used brake return springs. I like this set up and think I am going to try using it all slip joint connections instead of clamps which crush the pipe making it impossible to remove in the future.
Replaced my 3rd festy rack last week,I think I've learned some shortcuts but want to make sure. As you all know I suck at using the search engine . Ryann please point me at the rack installs so I can read them before a post a redundant install post. Thanks. Also figured out how to relocate the spring perches but that a story for another day.Last edited by ricko1966; 11-14-2018, 04:58 PM.
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