Decisions decisions decisions...

[scitzz]

Verified. 94 Mazda 323 with 52K. Comes with exhaust and intake, but they came off an AT. $300. Already pulled, sitting on a shelf, 90 day warranty, 2 1/2 hour drive. Can you say road trip Monday?

B6 plans on!

ccasion9::wav:ccasion9:

[scitzz]

The ME opens up a couple doors, same price range, 3-400 bucks basically. For about 100K. Which means I definitely replace all the seals, and such.

Waiting ruins my time plans, I wanted to be painting parts right about...NOW!

I think I am going to go with a black and chrome look under the hood, color of wiring TBD.

1.8 down the road would be at LKQ for 200, mileage and actual availability unknown.

Oh yeah! Can you fit the Festiva VC on the B6?

Decisions decisions decisions.

[htchbck]

Here is the thread from when I built Danny's car using a B6 out of a '90 323.

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40679

And a B8 SOHC shouldn't require much more time/money than a 90+ 323 swap. They are pretty much the same engine other than the B8 being a little longer. Drilling a new hole for the passenger side motor mount bolt to go through takes care of that though.

[Safety Guy]

I suppose you could widen your search to include a B6ME. Mine looks like it will go in just like a B6.

Karl

[scitzz]

"This guy in Randleman, has 3 different engines listed on carpart dot com, all for $250. Call to get the one with 49K and he tells me he doesn't have a one of them left!
GACK!"

Well, that sucks, don't it?

Keep looking. Something should turn up.

Karl

Yeah, only the $250 was right in my wheel house to get the job done by Monday night! I have just enough cash to cover it on hand ATM!

I am seeing a LOT of Proteges in the LKQ here in NC, but don't have the time or money for a B8 or BP swap right now, but if I did! AS it is, injectors will be cheap, I just really wanted that 49K engine!

[Safety Guy]

"This guy in Randleman, has 3 different engines listed on carpart dot com, all for $250. Call to get the one with 49K and he tells me he doesn't have a one of them left!
GACK!"

Well, that sucks, don't it?

Keep looking. Something should turn up.

My "oil pickup story" is in my build thread. I'm very lucky that didn't happen down in Georgia!

Karl

[scitzz]

LOL! Yeah, I have all those tools on hand, and then some!

I don;t plan to remove the oil pickup, but will do all new seals, oil pan as well, and new WP timing belt, spark plugs, etc, as I bought all that already for the B3, prices should be close.

Checking your parts is always a good idea!

Why extra torque? ;P

Oh man, the story I will tell you at madness about a dodge daytona, a timing belt, and a mud daubers nest for my at the time boss!

I plan on upgrading to AC while the engine is out!

[Safety Guy]

Scitzz, add this to your list:

-Large or small nose crank? Yours is probably small nose. Make sure you get the proper year crank seal because I think there is a difference.

-Also, if you want a lightweight plain old crank pulley with no heavy 323 A/C piece, you'll need one from an older Festiva. Anything up to '91 should do, unless I'm mistaken. Late '92s and '93s had large nose crank pulleys.

-Do all your fresh seals and gaskets before you install engine.

-Crank bolt is either 20 or 21mm. Have it on hand. I remember going out to buy one during my swap.

-Check over a new WP carefully for cracks or other problems. The first WP I bought for my first swap had a hairline crack in the body. Took it back before install. Whew--that was close!

-If you have your oil pan off, don't leave anything in it before you reinstall it.

-If you take off your oil pickup tube, install it with some blue thread sealer and torque it just a little past spec. Ask me why...

-Look for animal intrusions into engine parts with holes. He he he...

Take your time estimate and add 50 to 100 percent extra. Just 'cause I said to, and you'll be a lot happier that way.

Karl

[scitzz]

WHY!!!!????????????????????????????

This guy in Randleman, has 3 different engines listed on carpart dot com, all for $250. Call to get the one with 49K and he tells me he doesn't have a one of them left!
GACK!

[scitzz]

Thanks guys! I think I am beginning to get this lined up in my mind, and I am prepping a list as I type!

htchbck, you don't have a thread of your build, do you? I just did a quick search of your profile...

[Safety Guy]

Here's a link to the connecting parts online place:

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/

IIRC I got this from reading one of Damkid's posts. I haven't bought from them myself, but their prices are lower than Jeg's and they seem to have more stuff.

And here's the link to my build thread, directly to the updates for Scitzz:

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31934&page=18

I think I'm done now.

Karl

[Safety Guy]

Protege DX with SOHC 1.8 TB affirmative! It'll be 5mm larger than your 323 so you'll want to hog out your 323 intake plenum bore where the TB mounts up. That's what I did on my ATX swap.

1990 injectors should be same on both MTX and ATX cars, unless there is something weird I don't know about. Both my swaps were 1994 B6 engines. You should be able to use your Festiva injector harness for this year engine. Just substitute it for the 323 FI harness.

IAC valve plug will need spliced. You should be able to source those off most later B series engine cars, methinks. I got an extra plug from a Protege B8 car because my 323 one wasn't that secure feeling. Just an idea if you have the time and inclination: make a disconnector with an electrical parts kit at the IAC plug and put connectors on both types of IAC plugs in case you ever want to swap a B3 back in. Just a thought. I'm gonna do this on all my swaps...someday.

My intake is made of odd stuff:

-180 degree plumbing pipe bend from a hardware store (plastic)
-K&N CAI tube I found at checkout shelves at PnP for ten bucks (cut to fit)
-Rocket's VAF adapter
-expensive silicone connectors from Jeg's ($25 for the reducer at the TB; almost $50 total just for connectors! Ouch!)

After this post I'll go to my build thread and add some intake pics, along with a link to some connecting parts if I can find it.

Brake booster is lengthened with a piece of larger brake line. I think it's 5/16". Just take your brake boost hose to a store and size it there to make sure.

I use a proper 323 VAF, but I don't know if the Festiva one will work okay or not. I do know the Festiva ECU will run a B6, because I was lazy both times and didn't swap to a 323 ECU until a month or two after each swap.

Throttle cable will just flop on your valve cover if you do it like I did. I used the 323 intake throttle bracket and did some adjusting on the throttle cable where it can be adjusted. I also elongated one or two of the bracket holes for better adjustment, IIRC. Maybe you'll see that in the new pics.

My exhaust is:

-Bosal 323 downpipe with flex section from McParts (check prices at Rockauto though--I think there are cheaper and more choices!)
-Magnaflow low restriction cat, 2" in and out
-all 2" piping
-Thrush glasspack for a midpipe resonator, installed same place as stock Festiva one (really seems to cut down on the NVH, so highly recommended!)
-Magnaflow muffler (Mutt has a cheaper turbo muffler, but essentially the same thing)

After each swap, I drove noisily to a local muffler shop to have them install my exhaust parts with their pipe.

Happy Fabbing!

Karl

[htchbck]

1. For the brake booster just buy a couple feet of vacuum hose that is the right diameter. Then take the old short molded hose and split it lengthwise at the bulge. Inside the bulge you will find the check valve. Make sure you orient it the same way that it was before, and push it into the booster end of the new piece of hose. It will stretch the hose out (helps if you get the hose warm first by sitting it in the sun or with a heat gun) and you will push it inside the hose until its completely in and a couple of inches up inside. You want it far enough in that it will not interfere when you push the hose onto the connector on the booster.

2. You can use the throttle body from either a SOHC or DOHC manual (B8 or BP).

3. The last one I did I just cut the B6 downpipe and the old B3 downpipe and splice the two together using a flex pipe. Wasn't the prettiest, but it worked well and didn't leak.

4. You can use the stock VAF

5. You use your throttle cable, but you will need to either make a new bracket or heavily modify the B6 one for it to work. The cable fits it fine, but lengths of cable are different so with the B6 the throttle will never close even halfway.

6. Yes, splice in the IAC, you will have one heavier wire and one smaller wire on each plug, the colors don't match but just match the gauges it will be obvious.

[scitzz]

More...

I need to extend the brake booster hose.

Stock Festy Exhaust?

Do I need the Mazda VAF, or can I use my stocker?

Oh, and I see how you fabbed yours, more on that later, I need to purchase engine and parts today, fab work is on Sunday!

Can I use my throttle cable, and swap it onto the TB of manual donor?

[scitzz]

Throttle body from a 90-04 protege, SOHC Manual? Not the DOHC manual right? Found one for $35 nearby.

Then I can use the injectors from the 90 intake on the engine I get, even though it came from an auto, and I won't have to splice the injector wires?

Finally, I would just have to splice the IAC, and fab an intake. EZPZ?

Karl, what did you fab yours out of? I missed that, I think, or I haven't got there yet...