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  • Safety Guy
    replied
    Yup. Easier than unwinding that harness all the way to the left side bay.

    Karl

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  • freshtiva
    replied
    Karl I kind of like that set up below. I assume you just pulled the VAF wires out of the front loom to get it to reach back to the firewall ??

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  • scitzz
    replied
    There is one out of a 90 323 Auto within 50 miles of me with 49K on it for $250. I need to source a manual intake then, or at least the TPS, and then I also need the connector for it, to splice in?

    Reading the Muttstiva build, and I am about at that point in it, but have to go to work!

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  • Safety Guy
    replied
    On my first swap the B6 I bought came from an auto, so I had to find another TB with the 3 wire TPS. I got one from a '91 Protege at the 'yard. Those are 5mm larger bored than the stock 323 TB. The BP TBs are supposed to be another 5mm larger bored yet.

    I'd go with the Protege B8 TB if you can't find a 5 speed 323 TB.

    Karl

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  • htchbck
    replied
    What year 323 are you getting your motor from scitzz? If its the later (90+ with the TB pointing to the drive side like in Karl's picture) then you can also use the whole throttle body from a manual 90-94 protege or 91-95 EGT to meet your 3 wire TPS needs. Supposed to be an upgrade as well, larger throat diameter I think, but either way it opens greater availability since there seem to be more proteges and EGTs in the yards than 323s.

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  • scitzz
    replied
    Originally posted by Safety Guy View Post
    Okay, remind me to remind you later about splicing the IAC valve plug and the importance of making sure your brake booster has a check valve pointed in the right direction.

    That last one would've messed me up if Mattswabb hadn't told me about it during my first swap.
    NOTED! No kidding, keep em coming! I have the AT one picked out with 49K and I will have to find a TPS to work with my 5spd!

    Pretty bogged down after last nights perusal of the boards, but Weds night shall be list night!

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  • Safety Guy
    replied
    Okay, remind me to remind you later about splicing the IAC valve plug and the importance of making sure your brake booster has a check valve pointed in the right direction.

    That last one would've messed me up if Mattswabb hadn't told me about it during my first swap.

    One more picture to whet your appetite:



    Oh, how my junkyard pulled B6 was so cute when it was CLEAN!

    Don't ask how dirty it is now...do as I say, not as I do...he he he.

    Karl
    Last edited by Safety Guy; 07-17-2012, 09:05 AM.

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  • scitzz
    replied
    Originally posted by Safety Guy View Post
    Scitzz:

    JUST DO IT!!


    Karl
    I will! LOL! I got this, but you have brought up a few things already, like the TPS, that I would have missed! Thanks!

    Back after I sleep a few hours....

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  • Safety Guy
    replied
    Scitzz:

    JUST DO IT!!

    I've done two 1994 B6 swaps. One ATX; one MTX.

    Just in case someone missed these:

    Get a two plug ECU. It should look like the one on the left in this picture:



    It should say "B61K" on it and have two plug holes as shown. NOT THE THREE PLUGGER on the right! That's for an automatic. 1990 and later ATX 323s had some electronic transaxle controls in the ECU. ATX Festivas never did, so whether you are doing a manual or auto swap, you will use the MTX ECU for whatever engine you are putting in.

    Also make sure you get a 3 wire TPS on your TB. Again, this is from a manual 323, not an auto (which has four wires in the TPS).

    Feel free to PM me on anything, and here is my build thread which may have some helpful pics:



    Karl
    Last edited by Safety Guy; 07-17-2012, 08:44 AM.

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  • htchbck
    replied
    Biggest difference between the early (pre '89) and late ('90+) B6s is that the intake throttle body on the later ones points toward the driver side, much like a BP, rather than over the valve cover like the early ones and the stock festiva intake This means you will probably be fabbing an intake and moving the battery.

    If you are using the festiva trans (which I definitely would for a B6) then you keep the festiva starter/flywheel/clutch. For both early and late ('90+) B6 SOHC you will retain all the festiva trans and engine mounts. Just bolt the festiva mount to the B6 block and good to go!

    The ECU will need to be from a '90-'94 323, the earlier ones have a 3 plug setup like the '89 festiva automatics. If you find a '90-'94 323 in a yard to pull the ECU then it might be worth it to grab the injectors from it too. They will work on the earlier motor and do not require any splicing since they share the same plug as the stock festiva injectors.
    You will need to use the festiva distributor as the early B6s had a vacuum advance style that will not plug into the festiva harness. I recommend using the B3 water inlet and t-stat housing as well, just to make things simpler because you can then use stock radiator hoses.

    B3 to early B6 swap isn't too bad as long as you own or have access to a good set of tools and a crane and know your way around under the hood a bit.

    Leave a comment:


  • fastivaca
    replied
    Originally posted by scitzz View Post
    also, then you use the festy flywheel, clutch etc?
    They will work. When I did my swap I installed a lightened flywheel from FMS and a new clutch set.

    Sent from my SGH-I727R using Tapatalk 2

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  • scitzz
    replied
    ANOTHER question! Motor mounts on the B6, are they all plug and play, or do I need to fab one for a 2nd Gen?

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  • scitzz
    replied
    Originally posted by Bert View Post
    Certainly there is an element of fear involved first time around, especially if spark plug changes, oil and belts are considered momentous events. It's really handy to be overseen or advised by an experienced gearhead and someone with a 'blue wrench' for tangling with ornery nuts and bolts and exhaust parts.
    Other than that the satisfaction of getting another 20 horsepower on tap does have it's incentives.
    Those don't bother me, I am a part time parts changer for a living. I would imagine once I have everything lined up, I should be able to do this in three days or less, and that is taking my sweet time, and budgeting a day for finding something I missed, because I miss things....Engine swaps, trans swaps, etc are something I do as a matter of course. I have swapped Festy engines with a 2X4 and a couple of coat hangers even

    As far as experienced gearhead, I do believe that is where you, and my other friends on this forum come in

    Leave a comment:


  • Bert
    replied
    Certainly there is an element of fear involved first time around, especially if spark plug changes, oil and belts are considered momentous events. It's really handy to be overseen or advised by an experienced gearhead and someone with a 'blue wrench' for tangling with ornery nuts and bolts and exhaust parts.
    Other than that the satisfaction of getting another 20 horsepower on tap does have it's incentives.

    Leave a comment:


  • scitzz
    replied
    Originally posted by fastivaca View Post
    Just use the bracket off the donor engine. Try and pick up the ECU from the 323 as well, making sure it has the correct number of plugs (can't remember if the Festiva is two or three).

    I'm running with the stock Festiva transmission.

    Sent from my SGH-I727R using Tapatalk 2
    >slaps head< duh, that makes sense! Thanks!

    That was the other I forgot, ECU!

    also, then you use the festy flywheel, clutch etc?

    Leave a comment:

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