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  • scitzz
    replied
    Originally posted by htchbck View Post
    #3 exhaust valve is toast... #4 is getting there too. I had very similar dry/wet numbers on Babystiva and here's what I did:

    1. Pulled the head (with both manifolds still attached)

    2. Cleaned up head and top of block

    3. Replaced the two bad valves with good ones out another spare head and lapped all eight valves

    4. Reinstalled head using new head gasket ($19.99 from RockAuto)

    5. Retested: 175/180/175/175 dry, 180/180/180/180 wet Runing like a champ at around 180k!

    (I would have done timing belt and water pump at this time too, but they had been changed less than 5k ago along with the front crank and cam seals)

    Bottom line is, I don't think its the bottom end thats giving you trouble, I think its burnt valves. I've had trouble with #3 in a couple of my cars lately, both EFI and carb. Don't know why, but that one seems to be the first to go, followed by #4.
    I agree, the bottom end seems to be worn, but serviceable. I could also do a similar repair, but I did that once before on very old rings, and just blew the snot out of them with the nice, tight head :cry_smile:

    Did your B3 have 400K on the rings, and still getting those numbers? We have the same job, curious...

    Besides, I have the wife talked into the swap already :twisted:

    Leave a comment:


  • htchbck
    replied
    #3 exhaust valve is toast... #4 is getting there too. I had very similar dry/wet numbers on Babystiva and here's what I did:

    1. Pulled the head (with both manifolds still attached)

    2. Cleaned up head and top of block

    3. Replaced the two bad valves with good ones out another spare head and lapped all eight valves

    4. Reinstalled head using new head gasket ($19.99 from RockAuto)

    5. Retested: 175/180/175/175 dry, 180/180/180/180 wet Runing like a champ at around 180k!

    (I would have done timing belt and water pump at this time too, but they had been changed less than 5k ago along with the front crank and cam seals)

    Bottom line is, I don't think its the bottom end thats giving you trouble, I think its burnt valves. I've had trouble with #3 in a couple of my cars lately, both EFI and carb. Don't know why, but that one seems to be the first to go, followed by #4.
    Last edited by htchbck; 07-16-2012, 07:00 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bert
    replied
    Likely you have burnt a valve. Wet and dry compression tests being the same strongly suggests that. And those plug gaps look like crap.
    I have a valve that sticks every once in awhile and the car smokes like crazy when that happens. A splash of seafoam and up the road she goes at 5000 rpm in first until the 'mosquito fogger' stops.

    However nothing perks up your spirits more than plotting to rejuvenate a car that has by and large been faithful. And from what I understand a B6 swap is child's play compared to twin cams or B8s.

    Leave a comment:


  • scitzz
    started a topic Decisions decisions decisions...

    Decisions decisions decisions...

    So, the B3 that has been in Baby Car for the last 4 years or so was bought for $200 with 190K on it. Roughly, it now has something like 400+K on it.

    It has been running rough for quite a while now, and I haven't exactly done much to even figure out why.

    Now, I have had this bad oil leak lately, both the cam and crankshaft seals under the timing cover. So, I broke down, and got the seals, as well as new timing belt, alt belt, and W/P. Gonna have to take them all out, right? Also grabbed new plugs, wires, rotor and cap.

    I also figured I would do a compression test, get an idea of what was wrong inside. First thing to do, warm it up, then pull the plugs.

    Sigh.


















    Then, there is the fact that number 2 hasn't been firing, unless the revs go over 1500, even before the spark plug somehow got closed.

    Then the compression test

    Round one

    1st Took its sweet time jumping in a jerky fashion to 180 PSI
    2nd creeped up to 150
    3rd managed to ring up a whopping 30 PSI
    4th slowly climbed to 115.

    Squirt some oil in the cylinders, and then a second go around

    1st rang right up to 170
    2nd whomped up to 150, then crept to 165
    3rd one shot right up to its previous heights of 30PSI
    4th ran right up to 120

    These are not good signs.

    Some ring wear, oil, perhaps burnt or bent valves, or seats. Bare minimum, I have to remove the head, and I will spend at least $200, or $250, and then set that head on top of rings that show signs of wear, with 400K on them.


    So, it is with a heavy heart that I feel I will just HAVE to install a B-6 in baby car.

    My heart breaks

    The good news is, for as bad as she runs, she is still running, and pulling, albeit not very well. This gives me a little time to make some moves.

    I have found on carpart dot com, a B6 in a 1989 Mazda 323 with 123K on it, 20 miles from me, for $350, pulled. non-turbo.

    Also, Silver is sitting over there, with a 5speed in it, engine out, since I gave it to WulfgartheGreat to get him running. Should be good, we found a burned up clutch when we pulled the engine. I SUPPOSE I could pop that in to replace the 4 speed I have been running on for the last couple years.

    Then, I GUESS I could go ahead and clean the heck out of the engine bay.
    What the hay.

    The true bad spot is, I was GOING to go and pick up an aspire swap with sam.1956 this week, and it looks like this will kill that plan :cry_smile:

    So, I used the search function, but my skillz there are terrible. Can anyone point me to a good thread or fifty on the swap, or care to share any pointers or tips?

    Or did I post in the wrong topic...
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