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  • #16
    Driving fast on a public street where you're sharing the road with others isn't a very good idea any time. Depending on the fools sharing the road to act, or react, in a sane and logical manner is a recipe for disaster. People are allowed to drive because they were able to answer (or correctly guess) 7 of 10 multiple choice questions and fog a mirror. If you want to drive fast, get on the track where at least everyone is somewhat aware of their situation/surroundings and are usually going in the same direction. On a motorcycle, 10x. That's my rant!
    "Blue92"- 92L 5 spd, original owner- 185K, B8,DD..
    "Pedro"-88L 5-spd, B6D (built by Advancedynamix)
    "Blanca"-92 GL auto, 125K(FM8 Lowest Miles)- B6 daughter's DD
    "Tractor Blue"- 89 L auto, 110K
    "Chester"-88 LX, runs but not street legal
    "Wenona"-89L parts car
    "Flame"- 89 LX 5 spd ,parts car

    Comment


    • #17
      Posts #7, #13, and #16 should be enshrined as the most accurate, cogent and important statements on this Forum.
      No car too fast !

      Comment


      • #18
        I've been in a couple low speed collisions in my Festiva.

        One year I was a little too confident in the snow, and slid into a gaurdrail at about 20mph, did nothing but rub off the paint off in a few spots on the passenger side.

        Then another time a couple years ago where a multi-car fender bender happened in front of me, and I ended up being a part of it, that was doing about 25mph as my brakes locked up, while I slid into the back end of a Hyundai. Broke the clips on the grille, and bent the central brace for the hood latch.

        I do dredd any kinda side impact from another moving object in these, as the doors are paper thin.
        1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
        2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
        1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
          Running into a solid object at speed in any car is a bad idea, a Festiva or a Volvo. These cars are much lighter and actually MORE rigid than most consumer cars. They have a pretty effective crumple structure, but they weren't designed to protect the driver from ultra high speed collisions. However, your typical minivan is more dangerous than a Festiva at high speeds. The more a vehicle weighs, the more that weight is multiplied by inertia in a collision. A heavy vehicle will put more force into crushing itself in a crash. Furthermore, heavy vehicles keep bouncing and spinning longer than lightweight vehicles.
          If heavy gauge steel was the answer to safety, then there would be a much much higher causulty rate in Formula 1 racing. The truth is that engineering is more effective than heavy materials. The Festiva chassis is a well engineered box for it's size. All in all though, avoiding collisions should be more of a concern than trying to survive them.
          I'm not so much worried about being a dumby and doing Mach 2 into a wall or tree I'm thinking more like someone running a red light and t boning you or being rear ended by a speeding distracted driver or worse to worse sliding on ice these are strong concerns of mine in the future I mean the lightweightness will help the festiva bounce to safety but is a festiva perfectly safe cars stock? Like Ryan said there's a lack of confidence in the safety department that keeps many festiva drivers from carving roads at unnecessary speeds is my lack of confidence valid? I've never experienced a terrible accident in a festiva so I wouldn't know the true safety of the chassis I'll have to do more researching

          Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
          Festiver
          93 L find/5 speed
          BP/g15mr swapped
          Aspire brake swapped
          Enough little mods I can spend a week trying to remember and still not get them all
          stripped and sold due to rust

          89 festie
          rustful
          maybe v8 maybe field buggy wont know till the time comes

          93 festie
          advanced suspension
          kai/skeeter camber
          b3t/g15mr

          I will own a bpt cd-5 gtx clone one day

          Comment


          • #20
            I ride a motorcycle! i fully understand the dangers of the road. I was wanting a cage a for the fun of having a cage and b thinking it would help save me. If the cage doesnt actually help me then i wont bother with it. I fully understand how to drive and ride to avoid others. However crap still happens.
            1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
            1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
            1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
            19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
            1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
              Running into a solid object at speed in any car is a bad idea, a Festiva or a Volvo. These cars are much lighter and actually MORE rigid than most consumer cars. They have a pretty effective crumple structure, but they weren't designed to protect the driver from ultra high speed collisions. However, your typical minivan is more dangerous than a Festiva at high speeds. The more a vehicle weighs, the more that weight is multiplied by inertia in a collision. A heavy vehicle will put more force into crushing itself in a crash. Furthermore, heavy vehicles keep bouncing and spinning longer than lightweight vehicles.
              If heavy gauge steel was the answer to safety, then there would be a much much higher causulty rate in Formula 1 racing. The truth is that engineering is more effective than heavy materials. The Festiva chassis is a well engineered box for it's size. All in all though, avoiding collisions should be more of a concern than trying to survive them.
              I realized this 5 or 6 years ago when I started taking courses in frame pulling and started my obsession with watching car crashes on youtube. You are the first other person I have met that has said these things. Everyone i've tried to explain it to thinks I'm nuts. Cool

              Originally posted by Dragonhealer View Post
              Posts #7, #13, and #16 should be enshrined as the most accurate, cogent and important statements on this Forum.
              +1
              Originally posted by Festiver View Post
              Haven't these cars been known to squish too much and involve passengers into the squish? Ive heard a bunch of stories with how festivas crumble with any force (reason A of why festivas are so light) I would like to daily festivas in the future as many people do but once I have kids if I don't trust my festivas structure in a crash to Volvo I go

              Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

              Originally posted by Festiver View Post
              I'm not so much worried about being a dumby and doing Mach 2 into a wall or tree I'm thinking more like someone running a red light and t boning you or being rear ended by a speeding distracted driver or worse to worse sliding on ice these are strong concerns of mine in the future I mean the lightweightness will help the festiva bounce to safety but is a festiva perfectly safe cars stock? Like Ryan said there's a lack of confidence in the safety department that keeps many festiva drivers from carving roads at unnecessary speeds is my lack of confidence valid? I've never experienced a terrible accident in a festiva so I wouldn't know the true safety of the chassis I'll have to do more researching

              Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
              I have been collecting photos and looking carefully at everything people post about festivas crashing. I haven't been doing it that long though. What I see Is that festivas hold up well in frontal collisions, and similar to other hatchbacks when rear-ended. Hatches are always worse when rear ended because the rear passengers are closer to the back end than a sedan. Festivas suffer less damage than newer cars in low speed collisions say under 30km/hr (most times the speed differential isnt too high because you manage to slow down before hitting or getting hit.) Where they seem to suffer at higher speeds is that the roof sometimes buckles downward instead of up, possibly hitting an occupant on the head. I haven't seen any festiva that was t-boned. Newer (say 2010 and up) vehicles use higher strength metals on the sides of the car. That way in a perfect senario the vehicle skids sideways without denting in too far. The new dodge dart was said to dent in 4 inches maximum if t-boned by a train, because it would skid sideways after 4 inches. However that is in theory in computer models. When they first started doing that (in cars other than the dart) there was none to little high strength metal connecting the 2 sides so that if you got t-boned and your opposite wheels hit a curb or another car or something the center would crush. An ideal vehicle for being t-boned in is light with a very strong cage. The festiva is light. You got one out of 2. The heavier the vehicle is the stronger the cage needs to be. I would rather be t-boned in a festiva than in a lincoln continental of the same era.

              To be accident free 99% gaurenteed you need:
              1 to pay full attention
              2 be a half decent driver (some people cant drive even while paying attention)
              3 know what your car can do
              4 drive within what your car can do

              driving a festiva and realizing if you hit something you may die gives you #1, its the most important. By that I mean I watch my rearview mirror when slowing down, look both ways before going when the light turns green or a 4 way stop, when going straight through a green look to see if anyone's gonna run their light, paying attention to the people driving not only in front of you but also beside and behind. Pay attention to your exits while driving, always be thinking about if you have to avoid something which ditch is better to take, how wide is the shoulder, anyone around me i would hit if i swerved, is there a semi behind me that would hit me if i stomped on the brakes and so on. Driving takes a lot of concentration. When paying attention like that most collisions that would not have been your fault can also be avoided. I was hit once though. In a 2005 civic. I was stopped on a highway waiting for oncoming traffic to go by so I could turn left and someone didnt see me and rear ended me still doing 65mph. I saw it coming but the best choice was to stay put and hope she saw me. She swerved a little but didnt even brake. If i had had passengers in the back best choice would have been foot off the brake to avoid crumpling, but I didnt so best choice was foot hard on the brake to reduce whiplash. Both cars were destroyed and we were sore for a while.
              Anyhow, people around me are always buying trucks because 'their so safe!' what that does first is cause them to pay less attention because they have a false sense of security. I generally show this video to show its false. This is perfectly controlled at only 60km/hr
              2001 Ford F-150 40 mph moderate overlap IIHS crash testOverall evaluation: PoorFull rating at https://www.iihs.org/ratings/vehicle/ford/f-150-extended-cab-pi...

              This is a video of crashing a smart car and a geo metro ish thing into a concrete barrier at 70mph. not too much metal intruded into the passenger area, geo metro thingy faired better than the smart car. I can gaurentee the driver would have been crushed in a pickup or with a semi with a taller wall. internal injuries from stopping that fast would kill the car guys though.
              Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

              volvo getting t-boned. Its not bad, but dont kid yourself, its not good. This is an ideal collision, no speeding by pickup and volvo not moving or being hit again. There are usually secondary collisions, like hitting another car, lightpost, curb, building. A bigger car is no substitute for paying good attention. pause the video at about 24 seconds and have a good look.
              Go to MYRIDE.COM for more car videos.Insurance Institute for Highway Safety Crash Test: 2005 Volvo S60 Subtle restyling produces a cleaner appearance front a...
              Last edited by ryanprins13; 11-01-2016, 12:08 AM.

              Comment


              • #22
                Roll cage pictures needed

                Originally posted by mikemounlio View Post
                I ride a motorcycle! i fully understand the dangers of the road. I was wanting a cage a for the fun of having a cage and b thinking it would help save me. If the cage doesnt actually help me then i wont bother with it. I fully understand how to drive and ride to avoid others. However crap still happens.
                It took me a while to write my last thing and i didnt see this. We kinda went to talking about festiva safety in general, i dont think anyones saying your a bad or dangerous driver. Im not anyway.
                Vehicles are build to be safe at a collision at one particular speed or amount of force. Anything above or below that gets less safe. That speed is 60km/hr because thats what we crash test at. Airbags work optimally at one speed, proper body weight and hight, sitting proper distance from steering wheel, no digits or limbs in the way.... less so close to that speed or other variables and their harmful farther away from what their set to.
                Same with crumple zones. Designed for a speed differential of 60km/hr. They take the force so your body doesnt. Above that your screwed in any vehicle. Thats where cages come in for racing. Visibility aside if you had it on the street and crash at under 60km/hr differential your car doesnt crumple properly and the force gets transferred to you and you get hurt worse than you otherwise would have.
                But im off topic again, sorry. I have no pictures of a good harness bar for you, sorry.

                This is what you need a roll cage for. When you want to break the world record for the longest jump in a car and you have a wife and 2 kids and you fail. This is a shorter video. Pretty cool. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nwBt5aRhhxI
                Ive watched that so many times. Theres longer videos and the back story and previous attempts are interesting to see. Its really neat how well the car held up and its not often you see a quality video of what happens to a person when you roll violently like that.
                Last edited by ryanprins13; 11-01-2016, 12:28 AM.

                Comment


                • #23
                  were'e likely beating a dead horse at this time but I've got a cage and I'll give my $0.02

                  Here's what we did (Facebook Album)

                  I like having the cage, and I drive my car often (when i've got it running...).
                  - +1 about not getting cocky because you have a cage.
                  - I've hit my head on it playing around in a field before, hurts like hell, and I'd invest in some SFI 45.1 cage padding, stuff still hurts but it wont crack your head open.
                  - these cages can resonate at different speeds making it louder than all get out in your car at certain speeds, ours is around 65mph.
                  - In Rally, it used to be we weren't allowed to add any bars to the engine bay to maintain some of the crumple zones, be careful about adding too much support on the front fork.
                  - Make sure your harness is at the right angle, don't attach it more than 10º angle below your shoulders, but I think you've already got that idea right
                  - like seat belts, with any crash where it's pulled on, you need to replace the webbing. The harness will give a bit but burns out after a decent wreck. It's often overlooked; It shouldn't be.
                  - if you go 5pt harness make sure your lap belts (all belts) are tight; seriously, I still have bad flashbacks about when i learned about loose lap belts...

                  Car #789
                  Sponsors: Williams American Construction, Dewaynes Tire service, Roofing Supply Group
                  1992 Festiva L - BP Swapped, Aspire Swapped, Rally America Sanctioned.
                  1993 Festiva GL - 4sp Automatic and the bluest car i've ever seen...
                  http://www.facebook.com/warally

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by ryanprins13 View Post
                    I realized this 5 or 6 years ago when I started taking courses in frame pulling and started my obsession with watching car crashes on youtube. You are the first other person I have met that has said these things. Everyone i've tried to explain it to thinks I'm nuts. Cool


                    +1





                    I have been collecting photos and looking carefully at everything people post about festivas crashing. I haven't been doing it that long though. What I see Is that festivas hold up well in frontal collisions, and similar to other hatchbacks when rear-ended. Hatches are always worse when rear ended because the rear passengers are closer to the back end than a sedan. Festivas suffer less damage than newer cars in low speed collisions say under 30km/hr (most times the speed differential isnt too high because you manage to slow down before hitting or getting hit.) Where they seem to suffer at higher speeds is that the roof sometimes buckles downward instead of up, possibly hitting an occupant on the head. I haven't seen any festiva that was t-boned. Newer (say 2010 and up) vehicles use higher strength metals on the sides of the car. That way in a perfect senario the vehicle skids sideways without denting in too far. The new dodge dart was said to dent in 4 inches maximum if t-boned by a train, because it would skid sideways after 4 inches. However that is in theory in computer models. When they first started doing that (in cars other than the dart) there was none to little high strength metal connecting the 2 sides so that if you got t-boned and your opposite wheels hit a curb or another car or something the center would crush. An ideal vehicle for being t-boned in is light with a very strong cage. The festiva is light. You got one out of 2. The heavier the vehicle is the stronger the cage needs to be. I would rather be t-boned in a festiva than in a lincoln continental of the same era.

                    To be accident free 99% gaurenteed you need:
                    1 to pay full attention
                    2 be a half decent driver (some people cant drive even while paying attention)
                    3 know what your car can do
                    4 drive within what your car can do

                    driving a festiva and realizing if you hit something you may die gives you #1, its the most important. By that I mean I watch my rearview mirror when slowing down, look both ways before going when the light turns green or a 4 way stop, when going straight through a green look to see if anyone's gonna run their light, paying attention to the people driving not only in front of you but also beside and behind. Pay attention to your exits while driving, always be thinking about if you have to avoid something which ditch is better to take, how wide is the shoulder, anyone around me i would hit if i swerved, is there a semi behind me that would hit me if i stomped on the brakes and so on. Driving takes a lot of concentration. When paying attention like that most collisions that would not have been your fault can also be avoided. I was hit once though. In a 2005 civic. I was stopped on a highway waiting for oncoming traffic to go by so I could turn left and someone didnt see me and rear ended me still doing 65mph. I saw it coming but the best choice was to stay put and hope she saw me. She swerved a little but didnt even brake. If i had had passengers in the back best choice would have been foot off the brake to avoid crumpling, but I didnt so best choice was foot hard on the brake to reduce whiplash. Both cars were destroyed and we were sore for a while.
                    Anyhow, people around me are always buying trucks because 'their so safe!' what that does first is cause them to pay less attention because they have a false sense of security. I generally show this video to show its false. This is perfectly controlled at only 60km/hr
                    2001 Ford F-150 40 mph moderate overlap IIHS crash testOverall evaluation: PoorFull rating at https://www.iihs.org/ratings/vehicle/ford/f-150-extended-cab-pi...

                    This is a video of crashing a smart car and a geo metro ish thing into a concrete barrier at 70mph. not too much metal intruded into the passenger area, geo metro thingy faired better than the smart car. I can gaurentee the driver would have been crushed in a pickup or with a semi with a taller wall. internal injuries from stopping that fast would kill the car guys though.
                    Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

                    volvo getting t-boned. Its not bad, but dont kid yourself, its not good. This is an ideal collision, no speeding by pickup and volvo not moving or being hit again. There are usually secondary collisions, like hitting another car, lightpost, curb, building. A bigger car is no substitute for paying good attention. pause the video at about 24 seconds and have a good look.
                    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nrlE1TXJvuY
                    Ok thank you again I wasn't looking for a substitute for paying attention more of a fail-safe because no one is perfect and I'd rather be safe then sorry but thank you I'll leave the festiva alone cage wise

                    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
                    Festiver
                    93 L find/5 speed
                    BP/g15mr swapped
                    Aspire brake swapped
                    Enough little mods I can spend a week trying to remember and still not get them all
                    stripped and sold due to rust

                    89 festie
                    rustful
                    maybe v8 maybe field buggy wont know till the time comes

                    93 festie
                    advanced suspension
                    kai/skeeter camber
                    b3t/g15mr

                    I will own a bpt cd-5 gtx clone one day

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      This thread went the wrong direction! Not all car mods make sense. Sometimes people do things for them self and not others. Please keep in mind that not everyone here is modding their car for the track. I am modding my car for 3 main reasons. #1 to make me happy! #2 to have a fun to drive daily car #3 to have fun at autocross. For me the track is not life or death kinda thing so number 1 and 2 hold more value!

                      On the cage topic i fully understand what you all have said about the cage. I have my own thoughts on the matter but i will just keep them to myself at this point. I dont think i will make a cage at this point.

                      Just try to keep an open mind when it comes to someones build.
                      1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                      1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                      1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                      19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                      1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        In autocross, you're better off uncaged. Make that car as light as possible and keep as much weight off the rear of the car as possible. If u think this formula makes the car push, you need to learn how to drive it. The trick to driving a lightweight FWD car is not driving it like it's RWD. With that said, all the maneuvers that FWD cars excell at are also the maneuvers that can help you avoid catastrophe in a sticky situation. That's why I'm such a stickler for driving experience. Spending money on performance driving is a bargain if it saves your life 1 time. I can count over a dozen potentially lethal accidents that I've avoided because of my understanding of vehicle control.
                        Adding weight and rigidity to a Festiva makes them more prone to instability issues. They get harder to control. Without lap data and controlled testing, the average driver may report improved handling because the car feels tighter and slides easier. Lap times don't lie though.
                        Last edited by Advancedynamix; 11-01-2016, 10:50 AM.
                        Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Advancedynamix I trust you buddy! I have pretty much followed in your steps. Sure i try stuff out as i can but thats because im new and what to mess around. I take your opinions and words very seriously.
                          1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                          1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                          1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                          19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                          1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            No worries Mike. This is an important topic to me as I have lost a friend who had a fully caged show car. He would have probably been okay if the car hadn't been modified. Your car is your hobby, not mine, but I want to add my .02 to help anyone who may not know about these dangers.
                            Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              +1 on better technique and deliberately avoiding collisions!

                              Ok, lemme throw some money in this piggy bank (2¢, sorry, that was lame). I just so happen to have a fair amount of first hand experience in head on collisions. The first thing I'd like to say is Yes, Festivas are quite a rigid chassis in terms of cornering performance. In a collision, however, they do not hold up above 30mph. High speed collisions are particularly dangerous in a Festiva or other "cheap" car. If you look at the foot wells, the front lower rails attach to the firewall just inside the wheel well hump. This section is one layer of very thin steel. It is not strong under that kind of load and WILL collapse with a strong longitudinal force. If I were going to reinforce anything, that would be first on my list. I would not layer up plating for strength. Rather, I would design bars that will transmit that force behind the human occupant area (for racing, I would go just behind the center hoop. Daily driver, behind the rear seat). Another weak point is the HingePillar-APillar-RoofRail area. That section bends like a scissor jack when the front upper rail is crushed (same concept with the C pillar when rear-ended). Racing, if a cage is used, run a bar from where the hinge pillar and A pillar meet, diagonally down to the rear bottom corner of the door (good idea to attach it to the center hoop where it mounts to the floor. Also, reinforcement bar in the top of the inner door. Daily driver, just the door bar and continue it back to the C pillar, but I would find a way to make a crush zone near the back. This will also add some side protection, but may be a bit high if you are hit by something smaller than a truck. Reinforcing these areas will use more of the designated crumple zones, rather than your lap and head, but add a significant amount of weight behind the front wheels.

                              Some times it's a battle of
                              Performance vs Safety

                              Hope this helped
                              A mechanic knows how; A technician knows why.

                              Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Frankie" 1957 Chevrolet 3100, NA 2bbl 283cuin, Muncy Granny 4sp, 3.90 Open Diff @ ~95K miles

                              Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Alice" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @150k miles

                              Reassembling"Aurora" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @240k miles

                              FB Festiva page: Jared Bennett
                              Instagram: jaredbear82

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                ^ Of the parts you mentioned, the front wheel well/foot box area has me worried the most in a race build, still working towards a solution for that. In a street car, common sense, situation awareness, and impeccable car control are your best bet, same as a motorcycle.
                                No car too fast !

                                Comment

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