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Retrieving Trouble Codes from OBD I Systems

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  • #16
    You step on the brake pedal while the cable is detached - the reason being the brake lights removes any leftover electricity left in the system that might cause the trouble codes to be remembered.

    I think that made sense...
    91 lx 4d hatch - first car and would be my father's dd if he would fix the waterpump
    91 lx 2d hatch - parts car
    92 lx-e - the quick, beat-up rustbucket
    98 se - the luxury dd
    in search of a festy...
    Going quickly in a slow car is more fun than going fast in a fast car, cause anyone can go fast in a fast car, but you take a car that is essentially not that powerful, and make it do things that its not supposed to be able to do, well that's where the real fun is. - Jay Leno

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    • #17
      Originally posted by drof 89 View Post
      Do you leave the STI connected to ground while you do the battery and brake thing? Thanks
      No but if you do it won't hurt anything. Just don't forget and leave the jump wire attached when you close the hood. I personally don't know anyone that's done that before.
      '93 Festiva GL / "HOT ROD"
      '02 F-150 Supercrew
      '02 Excursion 4x4
      '98 Jeep Cherokee Classic Limited

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      • #18
        Originally posted by BigWheel View Post
        No but if you do it won't hurt anything. Just don't forget and leave the jump wire attached when you close the hood. I personally don't know anyone that's done that before.
        OK. Got it.
        Is that someone there ??? 1981 VW diesel pickup---1988.5 Suzuki Samurai tin top---1993 Festiva---1974 Bricklin SV-1 ( very thirsty basket case)---2003 Tracker(bells and whistles)




        )

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        • #19
          Thanks True!
          ENFORCER - Midwest Festiva Inc., Iowa

          #1 '90 Sport to modified Lx - RollazX
          #2 .....Cheesehead
          #3 '91 White - Donor Car
          #4 .....Montana Project
          SOLD----Levistiva for $1500
          Bought her back for $450
          Now that's darn near priceless!!

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          • #20
            Where is the check engine light located? I have a Kia pride and has never seen the CEL turns on. Could someone post a pic of the dash to show me where it is?
            :festiva: 1995 Kia Pride, 1.3 EFI, manual. :fred:

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            • #21
              Originally posted by BigWheel View Post
              Here is the best picture I could find. The STI is the single connector on the right.

              Once you've identified the trouble codes and fixed the problem detach the negative battery cable and step on the break peddle for 5 seconds. The light will go out unless there are other codes to be pulled.
              2 places to put a wire on that single connector, where does the wire go exactly?

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              • #22
                On my '93, it's a single white pigtail connector with yellow wire and a green tracer.

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                • #23
                  ya, I found that little bugger hiding out of the way, I needed a temp senson and now I am getting proper milage ( about 38 to 44)

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                  • #24
                    If you happen to know anyone with a decent scanner they can just plug into it and look at codes and some data as well.
                    We have 3 scanners that will work on tiva's. Genisys, Snap-On and an OTC.
                    Hotrod Forums Directory * D&D Discbrakes 61-67 Econoline Conversions
                    1988 Festy - white 5spd 1.3 * 1992 Festy - red 5spd 1.3 * 1963 Econoline 5 window pu * 1993 Dodge W250 5.9 Cummings * 94 Mustang

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by BigWheel View Post
                      Here is the best picture I could find. The STI is the single connector on the right.

                      Once you've identified the trouble codes and fixed the problem detach the negative battery cable and step on the break peddle for 5 seconds. The light will go out unless there are other codes to be pulled.
                      this confuses me because the connector on the right is a 2 wire.

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by briggs View Post
                        this confuses me because the connector on the right is a 2 wire.
                        There are several on the right side and The STI to pull codes from is a single female spade in black plastic.
                        Last edited by sc72; 05-14-2011, 10:27 PM.
                        An idea can turn to dust or magic, depending on the talent that rubs against it.

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                        • #27
                          Don't forget if there are no codes to display, nothing will happen except the MIL (CEL) will go out and it will just sit there and stare at you.
                          Even worse, if the MIL comes on while driving, shutting the engine off will clear the engine running code. So light on during a drive pull codes before shut down.
                          '88 LX (VIN#30) one of the first Built 12/86
                          '88 L (VIN#55753) Built 12/87
                          '93 GL one of the last Built 5/19/93

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                          • #28
                            code chart
                            '88 LX (VIN#30) one of the first Built 12/86
                            '88 L (VIN#55753) Built 12/87
                            '93 GL one of the last Built 5/19/93

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by XFSE71 View Post
                              Don't forget if there are no codes to display, nothing will happen except the MIL (CEL) will go out and it will just sit there and stare at you.
                              Even worse, if the MIL comes on while driving, shutting the engine off will clear the engine running code. So light on during a drive pull codes before shut down.
                              You know, funny thing about my car. I had long since shut it it down, but later I grounded the connector and still was able to pull the code. Probably just a fluke because it was a coolant sensor, and even with the engine off but the key in the on position, the ecu probably still saw the sensor was faulty because the voltages were out of range.

                              According to the Shop Manual, the coolant sensor is the only one that is at all times giving the ecu feedback, even when cranking cold, so I am guess even when the key is in the on position without the engine running, it still is sending feedback to the ecu.
                              Last edited by TorqueEffect; 03-09-2013, 02:14 AM.
                              1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
                              2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
                              1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

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                              • #30
                                Running codes are different from hard faults. A hard fault is something broken right now (ECT, TPS). Running codes are only out of range right now, not electrically broken (no EGR flow, O2 not switching). You're right it is all about how the PCM (ECA/ECU) tests the input signals.
                                '88 LX (VIN#30) one of the first Built 12/86
                                '88 L (VIN#55753) Built 12/87
                                '93 GL one of the last Built 5/19/93

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