WHAT AM I MISSING?! Crank, no start.

[econoaddict]

According to my '92 wiring manual, no CEL is not indicative of a bigger issue. It just says to check the bulb and the wire that runs from the ECA to the left instrument connector.

Not true, when my vaf died I had no cel.
cel should light when the car is off and the key turned to the run position.
There are many bigger issues that will kill the cel light.

[Movin]

Check fuses with a test light, we need to know that good power is at the fuse on both legs.

[200KGPGTP]

Room fuse was blown, but I replaced that a couple days ago.

I believe a bad alt is what CAUSED all of this.

The seat belt still doesn't work, it just twitches in the forward position so I took the 'belt' fuse out so it wouldn't kill the battery.

All the instrument lights were being dim and seemingly not operating properly at the height of this.

I'll check to see if volts are flowing through the room, meter, and engine fuse ports

[Movin]

You could be right about the alt. If you have a volt meter that is fine too. If you have checked all up to here pin testing power and ground of the ecm would be the next step, this can be done with either a test light or volt meter. If that tests okay it would be safe to try your other ecm. We are not necessarily looking for a blown fuse, we are looking for loss of voltage or loss of ground like a corroded or burned connection. That is why we want the key on and the circuit on if possible. It could test good just sitting there. Incandescent bulbs in test lights sometimes work better at this because they demand way more power to operate than a LED test light or meter, but again we can use what ever you have..

[Movin]

Follow both battery leads, all wires, to where they bolt to. Just seems like we are missing something basic here.

[200KGPGTP]

I've thoroughly gone through the bay like a million times at this point, lol.

What powers the ECM at the ECM?

[200KGPGTP]

WELL WELL WELL...

Although I had done this before and it checked out fine it no longer does...

I checked voltage across the pins for the main fuses again... Main and the one on the right have full voltage. The one on the left (EGI, the one for the comp, etc, right) showed 0.01, so nothing. INTERESTING!!!! At least I have a starting point now... and yes the key was in the on position and the other two inserted when I checked this one.

[200KGPGTP]

Ok. The white wire with blue stripe that comes off of the EGI fuse goes to the 4-pin connector for that relay thats bolted with the coolant overflow bottle. It shows continuity between the fuse block and the pin in the connector, but is getting no power while the other two fuses are??

[avitsefdrof]

gas

Is there gas in it?

[200KGPGTP]

About a quarter tank, but even if it was lower, it would at least sputter, where as it has NOTHING, lol.

[Movin]

You do have mods here, links removed, fuses put in? Ford has a TSB detailing a improved fusible link with higher amp ratings to address known problems here. Make sure connections from the battery to your mods are really good and not building heat until failure here. Normal circuits can cause a bad connection to heat until failure. If all checks out good then your little white/blue stripe has a short to ground somewhere. You can buy a cheap circuit breaker to power that circuit up from the battery or use a headlight bulb wired the same way. If its shorted the headlight will light up bright, other wise the car should start. Feel around for anything getting warm, part of this circuit does go inside to the ignition switch and back. Try unplugging the relay, once you find it you should be able to put your fuse back.

[200KGPGTP]

Again, the fuse isn't blowing anymore. I tore some stuff apart and basically confused the hell out of myself. white/blue provides power to that 4plex plug to the relay. Using a multimeter, I found from white/blue pin to the one diagnal, full voltage. From white/blue pin to the one below, nothing. BUT from white/blue to the one beside it(black/white, .04-.06. So I follow black/white to the 10pin. It has continuity from the 4pin to the 10pin. From white/blue in 4-pin to the MALE 10pin, it had full voltage. But from the same white/blue pin to the black/white pin, again it only had .04ish. So i figured it had to be in one of the connectors... But then I couldn't reproduce those test results again and now I'm just confused as @#@!!%

[Movin]

From your description it sounds like you are doing volt drops between pins, put the black lead on bat neg and probe with the red one. Be sure and check circuits with the key on to load the circuit as much as possible. It wouldn't hurt to recheck power at the coil and an injector..

[93festarosa]

Get rid of the brown box and the fusible links...

[Movin]

Nice !! This one is already done I believe. There may be a bad connection in one of the terminals. There was a bad alt that caused some burned fuses and the possible failure of the seat belt motor and ??