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Carburetor and Timing help

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  • plus the carburetor has been like this for 7 tank of gas or more
    Slacker Sam

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    • Look on the left side of the carb as you face it from the front. With the engine off, turn the throttle linkage so that if the engine were running you would speed it up to about half throttle. The throttle cable is connected to the primary shaft on the carb, that is the one you should be turning. Locate the secondary shaft which is in front of the primary. It should have a small triangle shaped piece of metal attached to the end of it and another piece of metal going back to the primary shaft. With the primary shaft in the half open position, try to turn the secondary shaft by turning the small triangle piece on the end. When you try to turn it, you should feel spring tension on it and it will try to return to the position it was in before you attempted to turn it. If you don't feel any spring tension when you turn it, either the spring on the primary shaft is broken or unhooked.
      You gonna race that thing?
      http://www.sdfcomputers.com/Festivaracing.htm

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      • there is plenty of tension in the spring
        Slacker Sam

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        • Every thing on the carb should be capped off.

          Besides brake booster, 2 lines to the dist and the cruise control.

          There are 3 fuel lines 2 are capped...is one of them supose to vent?

          I will try and test fuel pressure in the morning.

          Right now if I rev the engine and release the gas the engine will die.

          Could this be spark related?

          Problem is gettung worse.

          Fumes burn eyes when car idles.
          Slacker Sam

          Comment


          • Ummm sounds like you capped off the fuel return line........
            91GL BP/F3A with boost
            13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

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            • I tried hooking one of thr lines fro the carb to fuel pump return line but it did not run after that. Does any one have a diaram of this carb?

              Sam
              Slacker Sam

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              • I've attached a picture I did for someone else showing the carb. In the picture, the hose marked "D" should be connected to the pressure side out on the fuel pump, hose letter "B" should be capped. I plugged the top of the bowl vents on my carb so if the car rolled, gas wouldn't run out there. Your vents are open on your carb so you can cap that fitting. The letter "C" fitting is where you connect your distributor vacuum advance. When you say 3 fuel lines, are you talking about the carb or the fuel pump? The carb has only one fuel line and it's marked "D" in my picture. If you are using the stock B3 fuel pump, that has 3 lines. One suction, one to the carb, and one return to the tank. Another thing you might try is blowing through the return line and make sure it is open to the tank. Take the gas cap off the tank first. I won't be available next Monday, but as far as I know, I should be home Tuesday morning.
                You gonna race that thing?
                http://www.sdfcomputers.com/Festivaracing.htm

                Comment


                • I put this in the Weber Carb Tuning thread, thought it might as well go here too:
                  90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
                  09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

                  You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

                  Disaster preparedness

                  Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

                  Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

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                  • hey festy 46,

                    due to aerwork issues we were not allowed into canada.... long story. so we will not be headed east. we are now in iowa headed to MN the n UT. thanks for offering to hel us out on tuesday, but we wont be able to make it.

                    hope to find carb help soon. 23mpg is getting expensive.

                    sam
                    Slacker Sam

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                    • seems to me if you just take off a couple days stop by somenes place and get the car lined out right thenyour wouldn't be replacing engines left and right.idc how new a motor is if you put 20,000 miles on in no time with underlying problems your doing more like 100,000 good miles.by the time u spend money and time to replace engine you could of got it fixed long before needing an engine and probably saved money and time in the long run.there is no such thing as a rolling mechanic. you know someone to work on it while you are driving down the road.lol would be nice tho

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                      • thanks

                        Still waiting to find someone to help tune the arb... Thanks for the suggestions chris.
                        Slacker Sam

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                        • Just saying theres got to be a better way

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                          • There is always a better way
                            Set cruise at 60mph for 160 miles got 26.4mpg...
                            Slacker Sam

                            Comment


                            • Get that fuel pressure checked. I think it's a good possibility you have either too high fuel pressure, a leaking float valve, or a float level set too high.
                              You gonna race that thing?
                              http://www.sdfcomputers.com/Festivaracing.htm

                              Comment


                              • Had a major vacuum leak. And fualty vac adv unit on the dist. Now i have two vacuum ports on the dist. What feeds the vacuum on the top hole and what feeds it on the bottom. So sick of this im installing a wideband fuel/ air sensor today. Thx for all the help.

                                Sam
                                Slacker Sam

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