1989 Ford Festiva low idle and missing vacuum line

[XFSE71]

In picture I see a dashpot circled. In post 52 I see the idle bump vacuum actuator , only one.

What you are calling "the idle bump vacuum actuator" is what is technically the "Throttle Kicker", same thing. There is no need for a dashpot with a throttle kicker. Circled in the picture is the IDL (Idle Switch). There is no dashpot. The Throttle Kicker is not pictured in 52. Because it is not mounted on the carb ... it is mounted on the intake and you can R&R the carb without moving it.
OK guys lets get out the manuals ... has anyone got a shop manual?

[FestYboy]

ok, i'm throwing down at this point: the item circled in post #54 is a DASHPOT, it has no other job than to catch the trottle as it closes before it snapped shut (same as fuelie).
(if it looks like a duck, smells like a duck, tastes like a duck and flys like a duck, it's a flippin' duck). now tell me, what's the job of a dashpot? and doesn't the circled item do the same thing? (yes it does): dashpot.

go to post #52, looc at bottom picture all the way to the left. that small cylindrical object is a dashpot right above the idle set screw. that piece DOES NOT affect the idle in any way no matter what the load on the engine is.

you are correct in stating that the throttle kicker isn't in any pic because it sits on it's own bracket on the intake.

[XFSE71]

ok, i'm throwing down at this point: the item circled in post #54 is a DASHPOT, it has no other job than to catch the trottle as it closes before it snapped shut (same as fuelie).
(if it looks like a duck, smells like a duck, tastes like a duck and flys like a duck, it's a flippin' duck). now tell me, what's the job of a dashpot? and doesn't the circled item do the same thing? (yes it does): dashpot.

go to post #52, looc at bottom picture all the way to the left. that small cylindrical object is a dashpot right above the idle set screw. that piece DOES NOT affect the idle in any way no matter what the load on the engine is.

you are correct in stating that the throttle kicker isn't in any pic because it sits on it's own bracket on the intake.

Wow! I love a good fight, especially when I know I am right and you are sooo wrong. This smells like a duck. To test a dashpot push it with your finger looking for resistance (like a strut) dashpot rod moves slowly. Then release it, it should come out quickly. Try that on the IDL that you call a dashpot. It will fail because that is not how it works. It is an electrical signal to the ECA which then activates the either one or both throttle kicker solenoids using both electricity and vacuum guided by ECA strategy to keep the engine not only from stalling but maintain a steady idle RPM with the AC clutch in and out or electrical loads like stop lights or rear defog that would drag down the alternator and cause a drop in idle speed and cause higher emissions. The dashpot does not do anything like the throttle kicker system does, not even close. Test your throttle kicker by individually disconnecting solenoids on your firewall both the yellow (AC) 1200RPM and brown (ELOAD) 850RPM warm engine running will idle up speeds. You need to look in the manual ...
Let's get technical, do it right the first time. There is no dashpot on the USA destined AISAN 6H26 Carburetor found on any Festiva. The system designed instead is much better at controlling high HCs.

People look to this website for accurate information FordFestiva.com.

[timarellanes]

So how do I get my car to work. Lol. It passed smog today but still running bad. Act like I'm a five year old and your telling me how to put a puzzle together.

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[FestYboy]

Wow! I love a good fight, especially when I know I am right and you are sooo wrong. This smells like a duck. To test a dashpot push it with your finger looking for resistance (like a strut) dashpot rod moves slowly. Then release it, it should come out quickly. Try that on the IDL that you call a dashpot. It will fail because that is not how it works. It is an electrical signal to the ECA which then activates the either one or both throttle kicker solenoids using both electricity and vacuum guided by ECA strategy to keep the engine not only from stalling but maintain a steady idle RPM with the AC clutch in and out or electrical loads like stop lights or rear defog that would drag down the alternator and cause a drop in idle speed and cause higher emissions. The dashpot does not do anything like the throttle kicker system does, not even close. Test your throttle kicker by individually disconnecting solenoids on your firewall both the yellow (AC) 1200RPM and brown (ELOAD) 850RPM warm engine running will idle up speeds. You need to look in the manual ...
Let's get technical, do it right the first time. There is no dashpot on the USA destined AISAN 6H26 Carburetor found on any Festiva. The system designed instead is much better at controlling high HCs.

People look to this website for accurate information FordFestiva.com.

ok, (and please don't think that i'm yelling or getting adgitated ot anything like that) but you havn't explained how that piece works exactly. as i observe it in action (with or without a load), i see it act just like a dashpot (and i have 4 carbies myself, all acting the same way). if i manualy open the throttle and allow it to snap shut, that adjustable screw comes out to meet the throttle linkage before it snaps closes (with or without a load). if i add a load to the engine, that unit does NOTHING (no movement whatsoever) untill i open the throttle, then it extends (just as before with no load) to be ready to catch the linkage when it closes. that opperation screams DASHPOT (smells like a duck).

a rose by any other name....

[XFSE71]

adjustable screw comes out to meet the throttle linkage before it snaps closes (with or without a load). if i add a load to the engine, that unit does NOTHING (no movement whatsoever) .... a rose by any other name....

As stated earlier, the IDL is a switch, it is very similar to your dome light button on the door opening, SPSTNC (Single Pole Single Throw Normally Closed) it sends a 12V/0V (on off) signal to the ECA. Just because the little spring in the idle switch pushed the contact out,still it cannot push the throttle linkage. Again test pins 5 & 6 in the white 6pin connector for continuity while exercising the switch. It is an input signal only, nothing more. Idle is controlled (including snap closed) as previously stated by the ECA using the Throttle Kicker System. The IDL causes the ECA to call up an idle strategy. Other than snitching you out to the ECA for stepping on the gas, it doesn't affect much other than Decel Fuel Shut Off and the Shift Light. You could say your idle switch is just a snitch. The adjustment screw is so you can say when to report the throttle is not closed.

So how do I get my car to work. Lol. It passed smog today but still running bad. Act like I'm a five year old and your telling me how to put a puzzle together.

You are asking a question with no symptom reported other than it runs bad and it passed California Smog Inspection. Did you get a read out from BAR (Bureau of Automotive Repair, State of California) ? We don't have much to go on other than the mechanic that OH'd your carb didn't hook up the electric choke. So now we question his competency. Did you modify (bend) the carburetor as previously suggested? What about your vacuum advance? How did you test it? Did you use your VECI (Vehicle Emission Certification Information) on your hoses? Throw us a bone here. It may come out smelling like a rose.

[timarellanes]

The symptoms are when I put the pedal down it lags and then finally starts to you go it feels like its not getting fuel well too much feel on too much air. Not very much power. And I don't think the second barrel is working at all.

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[XFSE71]

Did you get a read out from BAR (Bureau of Automotive Repair, State of California) ? Did you modify (bend) the carburetor as previously suggested? What about your vacuum advance? How did you test it? Did you use your VECI (Vehicle Emission Certification Information) on your hoses?

What about the print out?

[timarellanes]

I do not have any of that. My friend came over and help some.

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[zoe60]

When I first got my '89, It did all that same crap. Drove me nuts fixing it. My vacuum advance diaphragm was shot so I had a huge vacuum leak.(All you have to do to test it is hook up a clean piece of hose an suck on it with yur mouth. If air comes through it is no good. Save up for a distributor). After I bought a distributor and installed it (timing at 12 btc), it still would hesitate horribly when first starting out and especially in 2nd gear. I was desperate. The only part I hadn't changed was the oxygen sensor. I bought one, put it in, and it was the difference between night and day. I'm pretty sure the feedback carb works mainly from the O2 sensor signal. If it is bad the ECM will make the car run extremely lean which will bring on the hesitation in a big way. The idle up solenoid is mounted on the back of the intake manifold and is connected to the throttle linkage. There is a thing that I always called a dashpot mounted on the carb above where the idle up solenoid is. I never figured out what it did, as far as I know, absolutely nothing.

[Movin]

Post 42, tracking switch and dashpot. Post 42 must not be a pic of a festiva carb? I have none to compare to.

A bad vacuum advance could produce a pass on the emission test but run horrible.
Emission tests love to burn a lot of extra fuel to produce clean air by having timing
not advanced enough to run properly.

[Movin]

Okay, the correct answer is "I see the dashpot in the picture, and this picture is not a Festiva carburetor"

This is :



Tracking switch and no dashpot.

The mechanic mentioned should have set all adjustments and after all this there may be a tracking switch switching somewhat out of adjustment? It likely does not matter as it passed smog and the car dogs bad off idle. Tip in. Several things come in to play during this dynamic transition period. A lean mix from the carb has been discussed, accelerator pump, idle jet ( NOT the mixture screw ) and the float level low. Other fuel possibilities likely would also fail smog. The initial timing adjustment and the vacuum advance has also been discussed and anything causing timing retard can pass but also cause a hesitation.

Methods to test this have all been discussed, if you more help testing for lean mix or checking the vacuum advance and watching the internals move inside the disty cap just ask!

Anyone of us discussing particulars could easily fix your problem but sometimes one little detail can fuzz up what we are talking about , and that is our biggest problem, accurate and effective communications between all of us!

[zoe60]

I'd like to look at it. Might be fun to fix. My feedback carb nearly kicked my butt but I learned a lot. Had it running pretty good but decided to get a Weber. More work and more learning but definitely worth it.

[timarellanes]

The Webber is not smog legal in cali

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[timarellanes]

When I get home to night I will make a video of what I did and what its doing and what we did not do.

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