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Nice tidbit for those with barely any heat

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  • Here is a pic of the blower motor assembly with the dash removed. You have to pop off the control cables from the heater control that you took off with the dash. You have to carefully remove the heater hoses from inside the engine compartment. When you pull the blower motor assembly, be careful not to splash any of the remaining coolant in the heater core onto your carpet. Good luck everyone.
    Last edited by bravekozak; 01-14-2013, 09:41 PM.

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    • O.K. I took my extra blower assembly apart. Be sure to remove this hidden screw before pulling both halves apart. Bad example as it was from an air conditioned car. the evaporator stopped the debris.

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      • Thanks so much, BK! I have an idea for getting to the heater core without removing the dash courtesy of Festivaca that I'm going to try today. If nothing else works, Sasquatch and I will rip apart the dash the next time I go to visit. Hopefully with a combination of an extended vacuum and some compressed air, I can get some junk out of the system today.
        1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc

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        • A few years ago were you and Sasquatch going to try installing a industrial heater and fan assembly?
          It may have been a stand alone product built by Prince? The implication was all of the festy heater stuff would be removed and this bolted under the dash, possible with ducts to any or all vents..?
          Was this ever done?
          Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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          • Originally posted by Movin View Post
            A few years ago were you and Sasquatch going to try installing a industrial heater and fan assembly?
            It may have been a stand alone product built by Prince? The implication was all of the festy heater stuff would be removed and this bolted under the dash, possible with ducts to any or all vents..?
            Was this ever done?
            Possibly sasquatch, but that certainly was not me. Maybe it was sasquatch and leapin' thinking about that? Don't know for certain, personally. My Festiva will remain with the factory setup, even if I have to rip it apart to get it to work properly.
            1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc

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            • Are you talking about blowing compressed air backwards through the floor ducts?

              Just so you know, the air intake path travels to the center of the impeller, where it is pulled through the blades and blown down a narrow curved passgeway until it hits the heater core. If you could remove the blower motor/fan and place a vacuum there, that would be your best bet.
              A second alternative, is to pull off the tube to the center of the blower motor and try to suck the dirt through the blades of the impeller as you blast with compressed air from the floor. Please wear a dust mask. It's going to be nasty.

              Good luck.
              Last edited by bravekozak; 01-15-2013, 03:09 PM.

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              • How hard is it to just remove the blower motor/fan assembly? Has anyone done this and can it be done without pulling the dash apart?
                It looks to me like it should come out the side of the airbox, but the gas pedal may have to be removed to make room? I have to change my blower motor, and I'm curious about what I'm getting myself into. Surley, it can't be much worse than changing the ECU, can it?
                Brian

                93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
                04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
                62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

                1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
                Not enough time or money for any of them

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                • I was told the blower motor could be removed without taking the dash apart. I tried and couldn't wiggle it passed the gas pedal.. there might be a trick to it, but I was having trouble and it was cold so I gave up.
                  -Rafe-

                  Things I have for sale.
                  Random Festiva Parts
                  Festiva Non-Swoopy Power Drivers Mirror

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                  • I did it years ago but don't remember how. I never put the blower back in though because the brushes were toast and I never got around to replacing it before I sold the car.

                    And I will add my opinion that A/C cars have stronger heat. My aqua roasts me while my non A/C 93 isn't near as hot. (Both have correct thermostats and flushed cooling systems.)
                    Last edited by Oren09; 01-15-2013, 05:59 PM.
                    ~Austin
                    Red 88 L (Ocho)

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                    • Originally posted by blkfordsedan View Post
                      Surely, it can't be much worse than changing the ECU, can it?
                      If you have room to get it out, just unplug the two prong connector, remove the three screws and pull straight out.
                      Last edited by bravekozak; 01-15-2013, 06:25 PM.

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                      • LOL, I was told the ECU would come out with just taking a couple screws out! Technically, it did....but it was one of the more frustrating and uncomfortable experiences I've had in a while. Maybe if I was 20yrs younger and about 80lbs lighter...I have a good used blower that SC72 sent me. I took it apart, cleaned it up, soaked the end bushing sponges in oil and put it back together. It works great and still has plenty of life left in the brushes, so it should outlive the rest of the car. I'll probably attempt to change it out in the next couple weeks, so I'll let everyone know how it goes.
                        Brian

                        93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
                        04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
                        62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

                        1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
                        Not enough time or money for any of them

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                        • I think I have a thermostat stuck open on my 1988 Ford festiva. The needle on the temperature gauge barely moves past C. The car takes a long time to heat up and there's barely any heat coming out of the defroster even at full blast. Lastly, I'm only getting 24-26 mpg. Does this sound like a open thermostat? Is there anything I should check before taking the thermostat out and boiling it?

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                          • Have you felt the upper rad hose? Is it warm or hot?
                            Have you felt your heater hoses? Are they warm or hot?
                            Don't remove your thermostat housing if you don't have to. A lot of people crack the thermostat housing. Maybe because they forgot to first remove both bolts.
                            Last edited by bravekozak; 01-23-2013, 08:56 PM.

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                            • ^ usually, the thermostat slips out of it's groove and gets between the head and housing. When the bolts are tightened down, the housing cracks. Use a couple dabs of superglue to hold the thermostat in place before reinstalling the housing.
                              -Zack
                              Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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                              • i need to change my T-stat but in my country it doesn't exist.

                                Do you know what is the opening temperature of this T-stat?

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