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My B3-T setup
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^ wheel hop shatters the spider gears in the diff housing and that allows the diff pin to fly loose and it all goes through the case.
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your theory is sound, but the thing that kills our E-series more often is wheel hop.
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LOL that sounds like alot of work, I'm just gonna buy a performance clutch, hopefully the b3t will be less damaging than a bp or b6t, with the torque delivery being softer. Might upgrade to a larger turbo to make it a more laggy transition into boost. I have a theory that small turbos kill transmissions faster than larger turbos.
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So would it just be easier/cheaper to just swap a better transmission in?Last edited by bobbyspider; 12-20-2011, 11:58 AM.
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metro = swift, both are Suzuki chassis with the same drivetrain (like the Festy, 121, and Pride). you can't find the better clutches listed for the metro that i'm aware of, but you do find them for Swifts.
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Are the Swift/Metro same chassis?
^ You mentioned that the Festiva & Geo are the same input dia/spline count. But you said this is for a SWIFT Clutch Mod.
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The suzuki swift clutch mod...........
It works with the E series ONLY !!!
1. You have to have the flywheel machined completely flat (no more step)
2. You have to grind on the inside of the bellhousing in some spots, mainly close to the starter, and the nose of the starter
3. The flywheel has to have new bolt and guide pin holes drilled.
The festiva and geo metro have the same input shaft diameter and # of splines.
The swift clutch works very well, but will give someone the ability to break the trans easier.
If anyone has ?s on this I have done it and will be glad to help.
It has a 8 inch clutch instead of the festy's 7.125 inch
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Thanks Man! It's no where near what it will be, just the start.Originally posted by bobbyspider View Postanyway this thread has made my taste buds water to boost. good job on the b3t bro.
i know im close to the 100 hp mark already so i know ill def need a clutch upgrade to boost so the swift is an option... what else is there?
I think the swift only works with the F and G trans, not the stock trans. They're are a few different staged upgrade B3 clutches available online.Last edited by BUSTIVA; 12-19-2011, 11:33 PM.
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If you're upgrading a B6, would the Swift clutch fit? Maybe a Stage 2 323 clutch instead?Originally posted by bobbyspider View Postwhere can i find a swift clutch i checked autozone and didnt seem to find it. what mods do you need to do to get the swift clutch in? i have a vj11, aspire mani, oil lines, bov, small dsm i.c., boost controler, a afr guage and some piping that i can peice together with some couplers. i plan on boosting my b6 car as soon as my bp is done and is proven to be reliable. i will be getting a fmu for christmas but ill have to save for a fuel pump and a wideband but hopefully it wont take too long. just got to get this stupid bp done so i have a dd before i go and start anonther project.
anyway this thread has made my taste buds water to boost. good job on the b3t bro.
i know im close to the 100 hp mark already so i know ill def need a clutch upgrade to boost so the swift is an option... what else is there?
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where can i find a swift clutch i checked autozone and didnt seem to find it. what mods do you need to do to get the swift clutch in? i have a vj11, aspire mani, oil lines, bov, small dsm i.c., boost controler, a afr guage and some piping that i can peice together with some couplers. i plan on boosting my b6 car as soon as my bp is done and is proven to be reliable. i will be getting a fmu for christmas but ill have to save for a fuel pump and a wideband but hopefully it wont take too long. just got to get this stupid bp done so i have a dd before i go and start anonther project.Originally posted by festyfreak39 View Posti have a swift clutch with my festiva trans, holds with 13x10 toyo ra1's on a b6T with 14 psi... havnt had a trans break yet either!
anyway this thread has made my taste buds water to boost. good job on the b3t bro.
i know im close to the 100 hp mark already so i know ill def need a clutch upgrade to boost so the swift is an option... what else is there?
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What he said^^^^^Originally posted by FestYboy View Post^ and you clearance for the valves on the block!!
The other factor is compression. The chambers on the B6 head are larger than on the B3...in fact, they are right at the edge of the cylinder wall on the B6. If you install it on a B3, the chambers will extend past the cylinder walls which will kill cylinder filling and combustion. You might be able to remedy this with some block grinding, but the larger chamber will lower the compression, which will make it a pooch out of boost and just take it longer to spool. I think you would be better off to port the B3 head and install slightly larger valves.
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The "9b" represents the model/size of the td04 turbo, its the smaller of the td04 line.
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