how much power can you get out of a 1.3

[Advancedynamix]

There are lots of options, not just b6. B3 turbos are pretty common over here. Here are a few threads to help you catch up.
http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...hlight=Bustiva

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...-My-B3-T-setup

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...t=Welded+turbo

[bhearts]

Wouldn't the b3 have the ideal stroke length for high revs. Like a b3 crank in a b6 block.

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[Advancedynamix]

They have the same stroke, but it does have longer (and also weaker) rods.
The b3 has a weaker crank, rods, pistons and block than its DOHC siblings.

[shorestiva]

All b and z series engines sold in the us have the same stroke just different bores. You have to get your hands on certain imported engines to get the shorter stroke.

[Advancedynamix]

The B8 and BP have an 85mm stroke, B6 B3 and Z engines have 83.6mm.

[bhearts]

You gotta be curious though. Just make sure to use plenty of methanol.

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[shorestiva]

The B8 and BP have an 85mm stroke, B6 B3 and Z engines have 83.6mm.

doh I always forget about the big blocks. They don't exist to me lol

[azgtx]

Thanks Charlie ...Ryan, please don't hang me for simply asking a question, which was graciously answered, and..my apologizing for my opinion...which BTW I rarely do or need to do. Actually we should be thankful that Charlie chimed in with a outstanding overview on the subject at hand. Now I am going out to the garage and pet a B6t.
Thanks

[sketchman]

Repped for "petting a B6t". lol

[beazo]

Wowzers.
I haven't really thrown anything into the mix through the last few pages, as I didn't really think my contribution would have held any standing for the subject matter (for the most part, anyway ).
If anyone wants to ask some questions to get this thread back on track, please flick them through.
I'll try my best to summarize what i can off the top of my head (computer issues, so I'm currently using a phone )
My goal is not power and fuel economy, nor is it to make the worlds fastest aspire.
To put it simply, I am a man who uses what he has. I don't have a b6, or chevy v8 or a veyron motor for that matter. I have a b3, and I am very lucky to have a past that gives me a very large skillset to turn my b3 into (by comparison to stock form) a little rocket ship. One of the main things I brought up is time and money, and to be fair, money is not the most abundant thing for me, but time is. And if I'm not at work, then I don't put a value on my time, as this is my passion and hobby.
Another way i can describe the way I'm looking at this project is by telling you about a video i saw recently, an old school machinist had a fine precision tool making vice where he needed a bolt to apply the pressure to hold the work piece, insted of using an off the shelf (commonly used ) product, he got himself a brass billet and machined away for a significant amount of time to end up with a very shiny bolt, with a multi faceted octagonal head that with all things taken into account, was entirely unnecessary.

Sorry for my own rant here, but felt that getting my mindset out there for you to hopefully understand will really help with the questions of why.

In short though,
I want an unnecessarily shiny bolt

Beazo

[firebush357]

I also enjoy Polishing Turds.

[Advancedynamix]

Nothing wrong with tinkering on what you've got laying around. I just wanted to state the facts before giving any advice.

First off, it's probably not a good plan to machine the pistons. They are weak enough as it is. You can remove a bit of material from the combustion chambers and run a thicker head gasket, but the b3 only has around 9:1 compression from the factory, so you really don't need much. You'll want to maintain a fairly tight squish area or you'll loose efficiency. Your copper head gasket idea should work, but again, don't open the squish area too much. Matt Dickmeyer has done quite a bit of research on the b3 head and may help you out with a good baseline number for your squish.
Now, your going to want to use a smaller turbo than the td04. I'd try a kkk K03 from a VW. They are pretty cheap and easy to find all over the world.
Your going to want to improve the block ventilation. These engines are very sensitive to blowby because the bottom end vents through the valve cover. This is not ideal for a turbo engine. You'll have ring sealing issues under boost. A port should be drilled into the block for this.
Like I stated earlier, these Mazda engines have very high quality rings from the factory. Any aftermarket ring you buy will most likely be inferior and it will consume oil. We've tried a lot of different packages from lots of different sources and nothing works as well as the original rings.
A good harmonic balancer will be much more beneficial than having the crank and rods balanced. These engines are not the most harmonically stable design. The rod ratio is not favorable. The b3 is less susceptible to the harmonic issues than the b6 and way less than the bp, but it's still a problem. You can probably make your own dampener or at least use one from a b6d or bp. You could possibly engineer a fluid filled damper if your keen on harmonics.
All fancied up, with stock internals, your looking at around 120hp that is somewhat reliable. There hasn't been documented results of any B3 turbo that has lived for very long. I've also never seen anyone properly vent the lower end. This is critical.

[beazo]

ok, so popping a hole in the block isn't too hard of a job, I probably have all the tools to do that in the shed at the moment. a good quality oil separator though? could you elaborate on this any? (brand/style/size).
and since the bottom end is relatively stock at the moment, perhaps I'll look into internals a bit further.

I'm hell bent on getting this b3 to make power now (and reliably too).
I picked up some 350cc injectors today as well. and possibly already lined up a smaller turbo off a friend, which I should be off to look at tomorrow afternoon. ordered 6 meters of 2 inch, 304 stainless steel pipe for the exhaust, and the same in 1 and a 1/4 inch to make the manifold with a bunch of elbows too.

250lph fuel pump is on its way from Sydney, which leaves an fmu to be purchased in the very near future. going to upgrade to 1/2 inch fuel pressure lines as well.

and advanced, I 100% appreciate your honesty, and every bit of advice you give will be strongly regarded and taken with me through the build, and that's the same for all posters.

cheers, beazo

[Advancedynamix]

You can make your own separator. Basically just a baffle system designed to wick the oil from the air and then the oil returns to the pan via gravity. A good quality auto draining catch can should do the trick. I make my own separators. Here is one I made for my b6t.


It's mounted to the firewall. The b6t already has ports in the block and oil pan specifically for this type of vent system. This is because of the engine's competition heritage. The same design should do the trick on a b3 as well though.

1/2 inch fuel lines are not going to be necessary, so you can dedicate your efforts to other issues. You may want to make your own rods. This is for strength and to help lubricate, cool and stabilize your pistons. The b3 relies only on splash oiling to the pistons and pins, which works for 63 mighty hp, but falls short at double those figures. Heat buildup in the pistons, as well as harmonic shock loads are going to weaken your pistons long before you reach the flow limits of your 8mm fuel line (8mm line will support more than tripple what that engine is capable of producing.) I've run plenty of 500hp cars on 8mm line. The crank will snap on your b3 long before you top those numbers.
330cc injectors will give you the flow you'll need for 200hp on gasoline or 120hp on Ethanol. That's a pretty good starting point.
The b3 has a smaller oil pump and smaller rod bearings than its higher HP siblings. The engine itself is the same length and the bore pitch is identical to the b6 variations of this engine. If a guy was crafty enough, he could swap a miata crank into his aspire engine and machine a custom pump housing to fit the larger oil pump pack. This would ensure that your getting proper oiling under the extreme loads that it seems like your building this thing for. You'd still have to make custom rods though, because the b3 uses a different piston pin configuration than the b6ze. Since you have more time and materials than money, this shouldn't be a huge task. I would use forged aluminum billets to make the rods. Aluminum rods offer a bit of shock absorption. They have about 1/4 of a service life of forged steel though, so make a few sets at once so that you can swap them every so often and have the other set ndt inspected, heat treated, and rechecked for straightness for their next use.

[bhearts]

so i see three lines going into your oil seperator. one to the valve cover, right side goes to the block, left side goes to atmosphere? and a bottom line that feeds back to the pan?