Power window upgrade

[bravekozak]

I am going to fuse the power windows separately. I am also going to have a separate circuit for my power door locks. I want to have the new fuses clearly identified. I got a Kia Pride fuse block from Germany. I will have to add a couple of terminals for the two additional circuits and simply move a few wires around when I plug them from one block to the other (one at a time, so that I don't get mixed up). The top of the Pride fuse block sits a little closer to the fuse access door. The Festiva block has longer mounting arms.

[Movin]

Windows should be circuit breakered in areas where it might freeze. Power antennae, and wipers
would be a good idea to have on circuit breakers as well.

[bravekozak]

Just a note to anyone else attempting to install a single 13 terminal connector in place of the two separate connectors.
The oval for pushing the connector through the body is very small. I had to cut the plastic mounting slides on both sides of my connectors in order to force them through the hole. I do not ever want to take them off. Friction fit. Stay with two separate connectors.

[Bert]

Windows should be circuit breakered in areas where it might freeze. Power antennae, and wipers
would be a good idea to have on circuit breakers as well.

I have to say this is one hugely ambitious project.
What I enjoy about Festys is that I can turn the crank on the passenger side without leaving the driver's seat. Name me another car that you can do that with.
Movin's caution about preparing against low temperatures, freezing rain and or ice is an extremely good one. There were lots of stories up here 20 years ago of failed power windows at -20, out on the highway. And very few of these conversations were about windows that wouldn't open, mostly about windows that wouldn't close and then about ensuing snow storms, overnight cats moving in, duct tape and shredded garbage bags etc etc before the expensive repairs were effected.

[bravekozak]

This is an addendum to post #60 in this thread. I used the wrong connector for the small Festiva oval from the door well to under the dash. Here is a pic of another 13 pin connector with the pins arranged in three rows instead of two. The two row connector won't fit. I am in the process of moving all of the pins over. If anyone else wants to order these connectors from Eastern Beaver, it is the last one at the bottom of this page. Don't make the same mistake I did.

[bravekozak]

I have never seen a power window 3 door Pride with long door handles. The only proper way to cover the crank hole is to get a new card made. This is the beauty of owning a Festiva. You can start with a flat piece of "real" carbon fiber. I am willing to bet Herb Fraser could help me with this. I am also willing to bet that it would look great with some red-stitched black leather inserts. I will pass on the industrial velcro though, and mill some slots. I believe the same keyway cutter I use for cutting circlip grooves on my mailbox weather covers should work in the carbon fibre. I will get a few pieces and do some tests. I will also post the dimensions of the slots once I measure them. I will obviously have to start with an end mill. I will keep everyone updated.

[bravekozak]

Here is an example of a Woodruff keyway cutter to make slots in order to use the stock clips. The neat thing about locating the door holes is that they will be marked and drilled out perfectly on the clear acrylic plastic templates that I used to make vapor barriers with.

[F3BZ]

just my 2 cents. i suspect possibly that one or both window/motor assemblies might be from a 4 door pride. these had the long armrest with integrated switches for the front windows but the back windows still used a manual crank. the 2 door prides with power windows had momentary switches in the center console. due to the smaller size of a 4 door front window it wouldn't be surprising that it used a different mechanism that is hard to fit into a 2 door festiva. you are going to have the most luck finding these parts on ebay germany. the seller will usually indicate if the part came out of a 2 or 4 door car.
as for power locks, i have a RHD fetiva from japan with all the goodies. it has power locks but there are no switches. all locking and unlocking is accomplished with the key or by pulling up or pushing down the lock buttons. the lock actuator is a common mazda actuator. you would have to fab a sheet metal bracket to fit one in a festy. the actuator that is in the jap stiva will bolt into the US door panel and even uses an unused hole that is already in the US festiva linkage mechanism. i hope this summer to pull this system and provide a wiring and parts diagram that you can use to put power locks in the US festiva.

[bravekozak]

I found the perfect 1" hole filler for the unused hand crank holes in the door cards. The gray plastic buttons from the 97 Dodge Caravan lower passenger sliding door panel are almost identical in color + a perfect fit for the 1/8" thick cards.

[TorqueEffect]

Got my power window kit from ebay coming in tomorrow.

Can't wait to install that, but is going to have to wait till a day where I have more time to do so.

[bravekozak]

Torque what's the eBay item number? In the meantime you can get those two door card hole plugs in post #69. Those holes are ugly at eye level without them. If they are a nice yard, you should get them for free.

[jawbraeka]

Good luck wih the project. The only thing you need now is the Ford power door lock kit from FMS. Ford part number E9FZ-6121BA42-B (switch activated).

http://www.bwbronze.com/festiva/locks.jpg

do they happen to make a 4 door kit?

[TorqueEffect]

Torque what's the eBay item number? In the meantime you can get those two door card hole plugs in post #69. Those holes are ugly at eye level without them. If they are a nice yard, you should get them for free.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=151103028645

Got one of them mounted and installed, works good. Need to do a little bit a gluing to keep the gear from slipping off.

Will do that tomorrow, as well as fix my power lock which I must have knocked loose.

Motor rolls up the window a little slow while running off the battery, but once the engine is running it goes up faster with the extra current.

[F3BZ]

I always thought the round hole covers for the passive seat belt retraction mechanism would be a good fit. they are in the rear seat quarter trim so the color is the same and it has the grain molded into it.

[TorqueEffect]

Got them installed, will video them tomorrow.

Just need something to fit over the hole in the door panel.The Passenger side window on my car is pretty bad (window tilts forward when rolling up.) so the motor struggles with it, but works better when the engine is running, and squirted some lithium grease down the channels to help it roll up since the silicone stuff always dries up.

Really need to get those window parts from Four Green or whatever that site is called.