My last engine swap build thread, FANTASTIVA

[Levitan]

How'd the seal change go ?

I got interrupted by grilled brats! They do not make a seal that will get between a fat man and grilled brats!I'm just sayin'.

[Levitan]

How'd the seal change go ?

I got interrupted by grilled brats! They do not make a seal that will get between a fat man and grilled brats!I'm just sayin'.

[zoom zoom]

Mine were completely compressed to get those measurements, everyone was saying that is the "industry standard."

Did you have to replace that seal on the oil cooler? I need a new one and cannot find it anywhere.

[freshtiva]

The splines will fit, hub to differential, but I don't know if the length will be right, the 02 Kia Rio passenger side axel is pretty much the same length as the xr2 axel. It is a one piece design, and doesn't bolt to the block, just a straight axel.

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...light=rio+axel

I measured the total length of the two capri axles. They measure 37" tip to tip, the span between the tranny and the hub is 7 1/4 less at 29 3/4.

The bracket looks great from my house!

2 thoughts...

1) Permacool make a spin on adapter that fits the oil filter bosses and allows two 1/2" lines to come out. Someday I'm going to step up to a remote filter, with a large Wix 51773. It helps cool the oil, increases capacity, and makes for easier oil changes.

2) Wheels studs are sweet. There's nothing like tossing a light weight wheel/tire combo on there, have it stay, and center itself. Studs are cheap and it takes about 20 minutes for the conversion when the hubs and drums are off the car.

You'll have to take for me for ride in this chariot someday. It's going to be the Prima Festarossa of the MidWest!

Thanks BigElCat, good ideas !! We need to have another Olathe meet. If the car is done by then Id be happy to give you a ride or let you drive it. On idea 1) do you mean in addition to the oil cooler thats already on it ?

It's just a hillbilly thang!

Amen !!

How the seal change go ?

[Levitan]

It's just a hillbilly thang!

Changed that inner tie rod, Fresh. Wow! Had no idea it was so easy. Just used a 22 or 24mm wrench and used that inner hillbilly strength.

[BigElCat]

The bracket looks great from my house!

2 thoughts...

1) Permacool make a spin on adapter that fits the oil filter bosses and allows two 1/2" lines to come out. Someday I'm going to step up to a remote filter, with a large Wix 51773. It helps cool the oil, increases capacity, and makes for easier oil changes.

2) Wheels studs are sweet. There's nothing like tossing a light weight wheel/tire combo on there, have it stay, and center itself. Studs are cheap and it takes about 20 minutes for the conversion when the hubs and drums are off the car.

You'll have to take for me for ride in this chariot someday. It's going to be the Prima Festarossa of the MidWest!

[freshtiva]

Worked on my midshaft bracket. Took some material off the back to get it plumb with the block. Im 100% confident in it now even though it's kind of gawdy looking. Like my buddy Levitan said, I just had to get in touch with my inner hillbilly strength.

[zoom zoom]

Yes, at least thats what I have, I havent tried to see if it fits in the aspire hub yet.

The splines will fit, hub to differential, but I don't know if the length will be right, the 02 Kia Rio passenger side axel is pretty much the same length as the xr2 axel. It is a one piece design, and doesn't bolt to the block, just a straight axel.

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39815&highlight=rio+axel

[Movin]

My brother welds cast all the time using this technique. He usually puts
the part in an oven first (if it will fit) to get it pre-heated.

Another trick we learned when trying to extract a broken bolt out of a cast iron component (like common exhaust bolts broke off in Ford FE block heads). Heat the bolt up to molten state with a torch and then give it a quick blast of oxygen with the torch. It will blow the steel bolt out and leave the cast iron threads perfectly in tact and clean.

Now we've "improved " engine design to the point that trick
doesn't have an application anymore! Darn near have to pull
the head!! Progress

[blkfordsedan]

Preheat the cast with a torch around the welding area. No peening necessary.

My brother welds cast all the time using this technique. He usually puts
the part in an oven first (if it will fit) to get it pre-heated.

Another trick we learned when trying to extract a broken bolt out of a cast iron component (like common exhaust bolts broke off in Ford FE block heads). Heat the bolt up to molten state with a torch and then give it a quick blast of oxygen with the torch. It will blow the steel bolt out and leave the cast iron threads perfectly in tact and clean.

[freshtiva]

Are you using the whole xr2 axel, from the diff to the hubs?

Yes, at least thats what I have, I havent tried to see if it fits in the aspire hub yet.

[crazyrog17]

Accidental post.

[freshtiva]

Good clearance too

[freshtiva]

^ Thanks a lot man !!! As soon as I figure out what Im going to do I'll give you a call. I really appreciate it !!!


Rolling on 14s now ( well sitting anyway ) with aspire shocks. Brand new free Michelins

[BigElCat]

That thing's going to be awesome.

I'm serious about the fab shop. My schedule's pretty flexible in the evenings and the weekends (I'm not much of a morning person).

If you don't have a spare block, bring the whole thing in a truck...you could back right in.

Or you could Festiva on down here to save some gas, and scout the shop out. If you have a good visual memory, we could bump and tack the mount.

I'm dreamin' of the day when I can do a serious build.

A hyraulic clutch is good if you ever use a stout clutch, like a so called stage 2 or 3.