I'll need a non-standard lower rad hose. Because the A/C idler is spaced away from the block I will probably need a non-standard belt for that as well.
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It's tight but it works!!!
I'll need a non-standard lower rad hose. Because the A/C idler is spaced away from the block I will probably need a non-standard belt for that as well. -
End cap on and hole reamed out...
Finished product in place...
Welds are a bit messy but I'm still learning. May have to tweak tings a bit yet but I think it should work. Will need a custom rad hose setup.Leave a comment:
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Looking good! It will be ready for Westiva right?
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Plan 'B'.
Modify the stock Festiva pipe.
Weld up this hole...
Make new hole here...
Weld on piece cut off end of original part...
The idea here is that it clears the A/C compressor and the the downpipe and allows me to use the modified 323 crossover I made earlier.
Hopefully this works, although I do have a plan 'C'. [emoji2]Last edited by fastivaca; 02-09-2016, 09:10 PM.Leave a comment:
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Well it's back to the drawing board. There ends up being no room between the A/C compressor and the collector or whatever it's called coming off the turbo. I have a couple of ideas that might work one of which would still use the modified crossover. Keep watching this space!Originally posted by fastivaca View PostFinished product.
Last edited by fastivaca; 02-08-2016, 09:59 PM.Leave a comment:
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The fitting for the oil send in the block is BPT, for British pipe thread. Autometer sells an adaptor that goes into it and converts it to 1/8 NPT, or standard (north american) pipe thread. From that you can get an adaptor to compression fitting threads, AN style, for which you can get many kinds of hoses and fittings.
Ian you must already have the Autometer adaptor, unless you just tried to force an NPT fitting into the block, which is prone to leaking. So you just need the 1/8 NPT to AN fitting for $5 from Mopac to then attach a conventional braided steel cable oil transfer hose off to a manifold somewhere. (See pic below) The male BPT thread on the send seems to go into a female NPT and seal, whereas the male NPT does not go into a female BPT very well at all. (What that says about sex between Brits and Americans is for another forum)
You could use the port Advance describes on the pump, but it is in behind the alternator, and once that is in place it is really hard to get at. The advantage would be you could leave the original send where it belongs, and just tap your other manifold pieces off of that port.
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eBay actually has the correct thread fitting and if turned correctly it will hold the gauge sensor . I bought a few ten of them when I found em . Number.
351639798688Leave a comment:
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Well i tried to make one, but i used a chunk off the crankshaft cradle of a honda. Drilled and tapped for my 1/8 ports and hooked it up but it leaked everywhere because the aluminum was so incredibly pourous! The amount of air in that aluminum when you cut it was insane. It would weep right through and it leaked around my threads. So my boss felt sorry for me and let me use that one in the picture. We have a bunch of them but he doesnt remember where he got them. They are for pneumatic application but obviously work for oil. If you go to a machine shop or metal supply place you can probably get a chunk of non pourous aluminum and make your own. Would be quite easy if you had a good drill press with a good vice and a set of taps. Or look at local places that specialize in hydraulic or pneumatic fittings. Red-L, greenline, graingier, greggs distributors... Is where i would look in edmonton. Maybe princess auto but i doubt it. I looked on ebay but they cost a lot -$33... Search for 1/8 npt manifold.
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This is what i used. 1 port in and 5 out, plus one hole to bolt it to whatever. All 1/8npt. Obviously you dont need one that big, but you can see how small they are and how it would fit anywhere.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1454697528.746077.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1454697562.009777.jpg
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I did that on my civic, ran a line out and bolted a manifold to my strut tower. Had 4 ports there, oil sender, oil press gauge, bypass filter outlet, oil sample port. Worked good. I switched it out for a sandwich adapter. Pressure gauge on bottom of picture, temp sensor on right, oil sender upper right and bypass filter very top. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1454689928.276446.jpgOriginally posted by Icedawg View Post
But the manifold on the strut tower worked real well, just ended up putting a coolant filter there. But im sure you could find room somewhere!
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If you run a line into a sensor, just use the port on the oil pump. It's got a socket head pipe plug in it and it's right under the alternaror. That port is a common pipe thread, so it's easy to use. I can't remember if it's 1/4 or 1/8 npt, but it's an easy thread to find, rather than that JIP thread up on the block.
Here is the port I'm talking about. I'm using it to prelube the engine before start up in this picture.Last edited by Advancedynamix; 02-05-2016, 08:38 AM.Leave a comment:
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I think that manifold is going to run straight out and hit the large vertical brace for the intake manifold Ian. I had a far shorter one, and had a lot of trouble with clearing the brace. Although it did just clear, by being short enough, it was super annoying to disconnect it whenever I had to pull the engine or tighten it for leaks. I recently switched to running a line out to higher up the fire wall and installing a manifold there.Leave a comment:
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