Ian's B6T Festiva build

[Icedawg]

Ian I used similar tape on a header in my old Omni ice racer that was too close to the starter. Even just the insulating wrap tape designed for headers will do what you need, although reflective is likely better. I no longer remember where I bought it, but between Part Source, Canadian Tire, Mopac, JB's Power Centre and that other auto supplier in Calgary that we do not have in Edmonton (so I forget their name) I am sure you can pick up a roll. Even if it is not reflective. it will do the job.
I get killed on internet shipping from the States on most small orders. Summit wanted $41 US to ship a $4 bag of plastic clips by UPS the other day, and I settled for $12 by USPS, but still steep for an ounce of parts. Of course, they were special clips for racing, so what could I do?

[Advancedynamix]

Same place I buy everything. Lol eBay. I think Summitt, Jeggs and other race supply places carry it.

[fastivaca]

Thanks Charlie. Where would I find that material? I checked at the localMcParts store and they didn't have any.

[Advancedynamix]

Good idea with that pipe Ian! Here's a hint. Buy some fireproof heat reflective sleeve and put it over that pipe. Things get really hot around that pipe with the turbine there and the exhaust manifold. The B6t tends to boil the coolant after you shut it off if you don't protect that pipe. When they boil they can overflow the coolant bottle.
Here are a couple pictures of the sleeve on Tweak. It worked like a charm.

[fastivaca]

^^^ It's a little tight at the block heater outlet so may require a little bit of "adjustment" once I permanently install it.

Now I know the A/C compressor will be OK and I should be able to use the stock lower rad hose.

Ian

[fastivaca]

Ian , you might want to change the lower crossover housing . It's going to be very tight getting a hose on it with the stock ac comp on there .

Got the coolant crossover figured out. Used the Festiva part that bolts up to the water pump so the rad hose will clear the A/C compressor. The Fedtiva pipe will not clear the waste gate actuator so I cut 2.5" put of the B6T pipe and welded it back together. This gives me the correct number of take offs.


Before cutting.


Marked up.


Ready to weld up.


Finished product.

[fastivaca]

This is the duct work out of the red car. All cleaned up and ready to put in the project car. Glad the car had not been smoked in, at least tor the last 13 years

[fastivaca]

Ian , you might want to change the lower crossover housing . It's going to be very tight getting a hose on it with the stock ac comp on there .

I'm going to be looking at that soon. I read Mike's thread on that topic.

[shadetree]

Ian , you might want to change the lower crossover housing . It's going to be very tight getting a hose on it with the stock ac comp on there .

[fastivaca]

Knock box mounted...





Wire was routed through the factory grommet that leads to the wheel well the into the engine compartment...

[fastivaca]

ECU mounted



and with the heater box I'm place



Next up is to permanently mount the knock box up under the fresh air intake.



Almost ready to put the interior back in!

Also bolted up the intake manifold so the engine is almost ready to have the flywheel and clutch installed then mated to the transmission.

Thanks again for your continued interest and encouragement!

[fastivaca]

Got quite a bit done this afternoon in spite of the -10°C (+14°F) temperature. Dash is out, head and intake off, main wiring harness out. Just working in the garage now. Made a 1" spacer for the A/C idler puller bracket out of a spare A/C idler pulley bracket... works like a charm. Just have to paint it and find some longer bolts.

Little bit of an update. Installed the A/C idler bracket along with its new spacer... works like a charm





Ian

[Advancedynamix]

Oh yeah, I forgot how tight things get around there with the b6t. That's another good reason to do the lower rad support mod and move the radiator forward. There is very little space for turbo inlet piping and a radiator and all the other stuff that likes to live over there (air box, upper hose, diverter valve, fan shroud, mini fridge, microwave ect ect.)

[fastivaca]

Are you going to use the stock rad ? Will you be using the stock Capri air box ? Will you be using the Capri turbo inlet?
All these things matter , they all tangle around that area .

Stock rad, yes at this point in the project & it will be the two core one for an automatic.
Air box: I have the 323 GT one. Not sure if I'm using it yet
Turbo inlet: 323GT one on hand and again, not sure yet.

Thanks

Ian

[Icedawg]

What radiator? If a Festiva rad, then using the Festi housing should work well with the stock Festi hose. It will fit at both ends and bend in the right places.
I used the 323 housing, with the stock 323 GT hose, because it is a larger diameter outlet on that housing. But it is too large a hose diam for the festi rad. So I cut a very short length of festi hose and place it on the rad outlet, then fitted the 323 hose over it and double clamped it with silicone sealant on the outside surface of the Festi hose. It works, but needs careful inspection for leaks after assembly.
The hoses are in the way of the air intake a bit so you have to push and shove at everything, and since the 323 hose is longer you can cut it the right size to allow for pushing and shoving. I did not try the Festi hose so I don't know if it is the right length to move around a bit, and account for a slight change in engine position, but it probably is OK.