Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Ian's B6T Festiva build

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • sc72
    replied
    I would like to add my 2 cents, I did the B6D swap with the intentions of doing a rear mount turbo so I also bought the Speck stage 2 kit, it lasted about 500 miles and had to be replaced, so I did what Charlie suggested, I used the Speck pressure plate and bought a new disc from Kentucky clutch with the stipulation that it would hold 125 hp, the fella said no problem, so I bought their disc and am quite happy with it, I do not have the turbo mounted yet so I can't say if it would hold up to the B6T but regardless I will not own another Speck product. I did follow Rob's suggestion about using stock Exedy clutch kits and have had great success.



    Last edited by sc72; 05-03-2016, 06:06 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    That's probably a good plan. Or maybe an Exedy disc and the Spec pressure plate. That's what I'm going to try when I get time to tear Pedro back apart.

    Leave a comment:


  • fastivaca
    replied
    Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
    Your using a spec stage 2, correct?

    They are nearly impossible to drive for the first 500 miles. You'll need to take ALL the slack out of your cable. Maybe even adjust the cable so it's actually disengaging the clutch a bit. It will be almost impossible to shift for at least 500 miles. After that it'll get easier and easier to shift. I hope yours works better than the one I have in Pedro. My clutch chatters on downshifts and sometimes on take off. Very poorly engineered part.
    Yes it is the Spec stage 2 clutch and I'm beginning to think it was not a good choice. I may just bite the bullet and put an Exedy one in right away as I'm not the only one that will be driving the car.

    Ian

    Leave a comment:


  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    Your using a spec stage 2, correct?

    They are nearly impossible to drive for the first 500 miles. You'll need to take ALL the slack out of your cable. Maybe even adjust the cable so it's actually disengaging the clutch a bit. It will be almost impossible to shift for at least 500 miles. After that it'll get easier and easier to shift. I hope yours works better than the one I have in Pedro. My clutch chatters on downshifts and sometimes on take off. Very poorly engineered part.
    Last edited by Advancedynamix; 05-03-2016, 09:35 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • fastivaca
    replied
    Well... good news and bad news.

    The good news: after cleaning the injectors are reinstalling them with the spacer I missed the first time the car started right up and runs fairly well so far. No leaks that I can see, pulling good vacuum, idled right down once it warmed up.

    The bad news: my clutch won't disengage. I've adjusted it as much as I can to no avail. I may just have to drop the transmission and see what I did wrong. I'm 99% sure that I had the disc in the right way and the flywheel had been resurfaced.

    Other little things to work out: tach isn't working and I must have unplugged the daytime running light relay when I was working on the wiring the other day.

    There are a lot of people on this forum that have been incredibly generous with their time and been so willing to share their expertise. Charlie (advancedynamix), Rob (shadetree), Clay (azgtx) and Julian (festyfreak39) come to mind right away. There are many more as well who have made suggestions, provided parts, bought parts and have offered encouragement. I can't say thank you enough to everyone for the support... this is an awesome community and I'm proud to be a part of it.

    Hopefully I will have the car on the road sooner that later.



    Ian
    Last edited by fastivaca; 05-03-2016, 12:13 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    Make sure all those plugs you unplugged and plugged back in are free of corrosion, the terminals are all tight and there are no broken wires. No spark and then randomly getting spark can come back to bight you when it's most inconvenient.
    Last edited by Advancedynamix; 05-02-2016, 08:38 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • fastivaca
    replied
    Injectors are out and going to be cleaned this evening. I did have new seals on them but I think I forgot one of the spacers. Not too happy with myself at the moment.

    Ian

    Leave a comment:


  • azgtx
    replied
    Actually the key is for a new motor or any motor that has been sitting..have the injectors cleaned and flow tested and new kits put on. You have gone to all of the trouble on all of the other stuff but you have left the injectors untouched. Hand on forehead.

    Leave a comment:


  • bhearts
    replied
    Originally posted by fastivaca View Post
    Finally some good news.... we have spark. Not sure what I did but apparently unplugging stuff then plugging it back in works wonders. Still not starting so we're thinking the injectors might be really dirty and not opening... they have been sitting for four or more years. Going to pull the injectors now, give them a good clean and then see what happens. Hopefully we'll be making noise very soon.

    Ian
    If you only had one stuck injector you could just tap on it while cranking. Sometimes it just needs a little convincing. Remember, back flush those injectors first. Getting the junk out of those basket filters is the key

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • fastivaca
    replied
    Finally some good news.... we have spark. Not sure what I did but apparently unplugging stuff then plugging it back in works wonders. Still not starting so we're thinking the injectors might be really dirty and not opening... they have been sitting for four or more years. Going to pull the injectors now, give them a good clean and then see what happens. Hopefully we'll be making noise very soon.

    Ian

    Leave a comment:


  • fastivaca
    replied
    Originally posted by mikemounlio View Post
    How well does the strut tower brace work?
    Can't really say it improves handling by any quantifiable amount but it does "feel" better than running without it.

    Leave a comment:


  • mikemounlio
    replied
    How well does the strut tower brace work?

    Leave a comment:


  • greywolf200
    replied
    Thanks, I got a cup holder from a Taurus, but it looked like it would be in the way.

    Leave a comment:


  • fastivaca
    replied
    The console is stock Festiva with the cup holder assembly coming out of an early Protege. I cut down the internal box of the Festiva console so that the cup holder could fit in. There was a thread a long time ago done by forum member monkeyracing but don't know if that is still around.
    Last edited by fastivaca; 05-01-2016, 11:03 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • greywolf200
    replied
    Originally posted by fastivaca View Post
    Even with the frustration with the car not starting I did mange to get a couple of things done...

    Painted and installed the strut bar...


    I was originally a much different blue than the car and didn't go well with the red valve cover.

    Just about have the rebuilt console ready to go in. The one from the red car had a couple of cracks so I redid one for this car...







    Thanks for your continued interest.
    Cool, where did that console come from?

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X