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Gomez's ULTIMATE build thread Lots of pics

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  • Originally posted by Gomez View Post
    Start of lower radiator support



    some dimensions. these are the numbers that worked for me. use them as a guideline if you want to tackle it. right and left needed





    I will be working on it again shortly (tomorrow or Tuesday when I get a bigger drill bit for the mounts). I will get more pics as welding gets done. My welds aren't the prettiest. I was gonna hire a welder coworker but I really want to do it all myself.
    So....what's the point of a redesigned radiator support? Nice work. Love the pix and the detailed discussions.
    88L - 'Twistiva' - 'The Fusion of Man and Machine'
    88LX - 'Laztiza' - Future Resurrection Project
    91L - 'Mistiva' - My Daughter's DD
    93L - 'Vextiva' - Airport Car

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    • Several reasons. Based on Advancedynamix's R&D, much strengthened front end for better handling and the ability to move the radiator forward. Rad forward allows moving the engine forward allowing more power to be put to the ground during all conditions through better traction.

      After getting the stock support off it became obvious to me the need for more strength and/or a stiffer front end.

      It is also removable for easier engine removal/work etc. plus more room for intercooler. Got a couple ideas on that one already.
      -Bryant

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      • You should reproduce that support
        91GL BP/F3A with boost
        13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

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        • Thanks for the pics Gomez, this is def next on my list of things to do.
          -M3NTAL MARK! Woo!!

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          • Man I need one of those rad supports so bad haha. Having a single core radiator and a high boost B6T is not a great combination...
            1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc

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            • Gomez, here's what you need. I've heard it called a couple of different things... a step drill, a christmas tree bit

              Ian
              Calgary AB, Canada
              93 L B6T: June 2016 FOTM
              59 Austin Healey "Bugeye" Sprite

              "It's infinitely better to fail with courage than to sit idle with fear...." Chip Gaines (pg 167 of Capital Gaines, Smart Things I Learned Doing Stupid Stuff)

              Link to the "Road Trip Starting Points" page of my Econobox Café blog

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              • As much as I hate to say it out loud and jinx myself, the HF kobalt bits are doing pretty good for me so far. You'll need a 1/2" drill tho lol.. I got mine for like $60---80 after a 4 year warranty at lowes.
                Last edited by zoom zoom; 04-08-2014, 04:46 AM.
                2008 Kia Rio- new beater
                1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
                1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
                1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
                1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
                1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
                1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
                1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



                "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

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                • I have to go through just over a 1/2" of material so a step bit won't work. I already have them. I also have to be able to drill a hole into the final piece of angle in a couple spots to be able to fit a 22mm socket into it. HOPEFULLY I will be able to update pics tonight.
                  -Bryant

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                  • Getting ready to weld.








                    Spotted to hold for a bit














                    Welded and with loose fit to show removability.












                    Sway bar bracket bolts drilled in and welded on.





                    Final fitment is good.











                    Now All I need to do is get my radiator and intercooler, fit them and I'm good to go. Well almost. Still need to affix the upper rad support bracket to the lower support. Spacing is near exact as I can tell from the upper support bracket to the lower. should be as simple as can be to do that. Also needs the bumper cover plate with the 5 holes in it for the bottom of the cover. Easy stuff. The hardest part is done.

                    Once everything is mounted I will blast it and powder coat for a nice satin black finish and paint the rest of the engine bay as well. The only hard part of the rest of the build will be the engine mounts. I want them to look either as factory as possible OR as aftermarket as possible. Nothing in between will be accepted. Sometime this summer will be that project.
                    Last edited by Gomez; 04-08-2014, 10:12 PM.
                    -Bryant

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                    • Very nice man!! How thick is that angle iron? 1/4"?

                      1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
                      1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
                      2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

                      1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

                      If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

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                      • Gomez... I tip my hat to you sir. That is awesome work right there. Kudos
                        1988 MAZDA 121- B6T + G5MR SWAP IN PROGRESS.

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                        • Thanks Moz.

                          2x3x1/4 angle. Built this way it nearly matches the stock support exactly in every necessary dimension.
                          -Bryant

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                          • impressive!
                            Never Hire a Boy to do a Man's Job!!

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                            • Question.
                              Will the way this is set up raise or lower the cross member mount on the front?
                              Last edited by moz; 04-09-2014, 08:03 AM.
                              1988 MAZDA 121- B6T + G5MR SWAP IN PROGRESS.

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                              • ^ exactly the same
                                -Bryant

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