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  • Those numbers don't sound out of hand for a fresh build, buy I agree that a comparison is in order.
    Trees aren't kind to me...

    currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
    94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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    • I've got a b6t on an engine stand in my shop. I'll check to see what it spins at tonight.
      Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

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      • Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
        I've got a b6t on an engine stand in my shop. I'll check to see what it spins at tonight.
        I would really appreciate that.

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        • Less than 10 ft.lbs to spin it with plugs out. This engine had been run though.
          Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

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          • Scary. I winder if the fresh hone and packed bearings is making that much of a difference.

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            • First, The Force runs deep with you, wish I had your body and paint skills, amazing work!
              On the engine, I'm assuming you know B series builds and have checked everything thouroly before assembly. The few times i've had one that tight, it proved to be a tight oil ring package (I mean all four). They all ran, but created more friction than I wanted and lead to early heating on the track.
              you might want to fit a bell housing and starter and fill er with oil, crank for 30 seconds, wait 2 minutes and repeat and see if she smoothes out and sounds right. I do this with the plugs out.
              No car too fast !

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              • Are you using stock valve springs or double springs and would that make a difference? Have you tried turning it over with the distributor pulled out to see if that might be binding it up? Idk...just throwing things out there.

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                • Originally posted by Dragonhealer View Post
                  First, The Force runs deep with you, wish I had your body and paint skills, amazing work!
                  On the engine, I'm assuming you know B series builds and have checked everything thouroly before assembly. The few times i've had one that tight, it proved to be a tight oil ring package (I mean all four). They all ran, but created more friction than I wanted and lead to early heating on the track.
                  you might want to fit a bell housing and starter and fill er with oil, crank for 30 seconds, wait 2 minutes and repeat and see if she smoothes out and sounds right. I do this with the plugs out.
                  I'm hoping to have the motor in the bay next weekend. I'll give this a shot. Also, thank you.

                  Originally posted by wwwdotgov View Post
                  Are you using stock valve springs or double springs and would that make a difference? Have you tried turning it over with the distributor pulled out to see if that might be binding it up? Idk...just throwing things out there.
                  I'm using all stock springs. I'm going to dig deeper this afternoon when I wake up.

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                  • I was able to get a little bit of work done this weekend. I'm not going to stress too much about the motor being tight. I'm hoping it't because of the hone but I'm going to run it before I just tear it down. If it runs, I'm only going to run it for a year or so until I finish building my high compression bottom end.

                    Between yesterday I was able to go back and loc tite all of the oil pan bolts, install the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, new bearings and bolt the trans to the motor. The only thing I have left before I can install the motor is cleaning the subframe, moving over some brackets and mounts and removing the old exhaust. Hopefully I can knock this stuff out during the week so I can drop the motor in on saturday.

                    Check out my sweet flywheel locking tool. It was made for my FD but it works great on these motors too.


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                    • Also, I was able to bolt the b3 distributor to the head with no issues. It's not in time yet but I'm not seeing what you guys meant by I'd need to shave something to make it work.

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                      • It's because you won't get enough adjustment with that bolt in there so the cap that is right about the disty with 2 bolts in it " it's the top half of the hole the disty goes in"
                        You shave a bit off this and then it will act as a clamp when you tighten it down

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                        • Hey! Did you get your plate yet?

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                          • I'm not exactly sure what you mean in your post but from what I gather, I won't have enough adjustment. I'm just going to tap for a set screw in the cap that holds the dizzy down. I think that way I can turn it all I want and be able to lock it down.

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                            • Yep sure did I posted in my map thread but I should have pmed you. Thanks man I appreciate it!
                              Right but rather then the set screw just pull that cap take a file grinder belt sander what ever you got and take a bit off the cap where it meets the head this will make it apply pressure to the disty holding it in place .
                              Last edited by william; 03-13-2017, 08:11 PM.

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                              • Oh. Gotcha. I feel ridiculous now

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