Not today, but yesterday, I pulled the transmission and disassembled the inner CV's to plug the diff holes after draining the [pretty nasty] fluid. Found out the rear 'pad' mount for the transmission was completely delaminated from the rubber pad, started cleaning up the 15lbs of grease and dirt that accumulated on the transmission in 200 odd thousand miles. There's a lot of it.
Laid the transmission on top of the new engine, waiting on the input shaft bearing to come in so I can get them perfectly aligned and get a good template for the adapter plate.
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Ordered a stainless CAT and as soon as I measure my muffler inlet OD I'm gonna order the stainless clamps in preparation for my full stainless steel exhaust system install
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Got my Matt Dickmeyer Automotive Engineering max MPG cam today and installed it. Drove to the gas station, filled it up and reset the trip odometer. I got 34.5 on my last tank. Will let everyone know how much MPG improves in about 2 weeks! Driving around I didn't notice any appreciable decrease in performance. Runs about the same. Should be a good experiment. This is on a 1st gen B6 with a Weber 32 36.
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Replaced the brake pads. Found out I don't even have to remove the calipers, and I can compress the piston with my foot. Haha. Going to replace the exhaust tomorrow.
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Originally posted by Christ View PostI'm pretty sure I'd like to see a plug & play diesel swap, personally. Especially if it were something on order of 150HP.
Oh, wait. That's what I'm working on now. Silly me...
[Disclaimer - Mine won't be anything near 150hp, and it's still using the same E-series trans that came with the car... but I'll have a plug and play kit ready to go when it's done for a very common engine that you can get anywhere in the country for cheap and they're easily upgraded to make better power numbers without ultimately sacrificing cruise economy]
...I keep saying things like this and people are going to have an easy guess at which engine I'm using before I even tell them... :/
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Originally posted by bravekozak View PostIt's not the filter. It's how clean the gas is that you are using. Any filter will stay clean without being plugged up by rust from the gas tank and lines from cheap ethanol gas.
I do know I never go for the crappy looking gas stations, I only put Speedway, BP, or Kroger (Local Grocery Store Chain) I make exceptions when it doesn't look like a cheap, or run down gas station. Only station I avoid completely is Sunoco, one time we gassed up at one in our 01 Windstar, and almost immediately the van started sputtering and the Check Engine Light came on, and ran like that until the tank was refilled with clean gas, then it ran just fine.Last edited by TorqueEffect; 09-08-2013, 09:53 AM.
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It's not the filter. It's how clean the gas is that you are using. Any filter will stay clean without being plugged up by rust from the gas tank and lines from cheap ethanol gas.Last edited by bravekozak; 09-08-2013, 06:24 AM.
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Changed the Fuel Filter, and the air filter.
I yanked that old fuel filter out of there, the tightening bolt for the thing that wraps around the filter sheered off with little effort.
Pulling the hoses off took the longest out of the whole thing. Once I got it out, I noticed it was a Motorcraft filter, and it had quite a bit of oxidation, and rust on it. Could this filter really have been in there for 311k miles? If it was, that is one damn good filter, I only changed it because I was fairly certain that it was in there way longer than 60k miles, and was hoping to get some power back from changing it.Last edited by TorqueEffect; 09-07-2013, 11:38 PM.
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I'm pretty sure I'd like to see a plug & play diesel swap, personally. Especially if it were something on order of 150HP.
Oh, wait. That's what I'm working on now. Silly me...
[Disclaimer - Mine won't be anything near 150hp, and it's still using the same E-series trans that came with the car... but I'll have a plug and play kit ready to go when it's done for a very common engine that you can get anywhere in the country for cheap and they're easily upgraded to make better power numbers without ultimately sacrificing cruise economy]
...I keep saying things like this and people are going to have an easy guess at which engine I'm using before I even tell them... :/Last edited by Christ; 09-07-2013, 01:09 PM.
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In a perfect world where everyone loved festivas take it a step further and have preassembled OEM BP+g25's front clips with plug and play harnesses. can you imagine whole subframe and drivetrains on furniture dollies lined up in some guys shop for 2 grand out the door all day long. Most of you can buy an engine and get a BP car going for a grand, but time is money for every party involved.Last edited by getnpsi; 09-07-2013, 12:19 PM.
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Look at how they build train engines that are huge two-stroke diesels... sleeve and piston/rod/pin/rings all pop out at once, they're called 'power units'. They rarely get rebuilt, usually sold to a core rebuilder or another train yard that will use them on mules or on their trains if they're still serviceable.
Kinda wish our engines were something like that in cars/trucks. Drop a piston, remove that whole unit and replace and it'd be the same amount of work as replacing a head gasket, basically.
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Originally posted by greywolf200
For the cost, I think I'll just go with a little more displacement and a little more compression ratio. Thanks though.
Doing it on these throwaway cheap paperweights wouldn't be feasible unless you're really bored and wanted to give something an experiment.
I sleeved an int'l, I think it was $70 for the stock? , cut to length. $200 piston and set of rings, Better then a $6000 rebuild kit,
Many ways to skin a cat.
Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 Pro
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Originally posted by scitzz View PostWe might need to talk realz soon!nthego:
[QUOTE=jason_;616029]Sleeve it! Call Melling, they have decent prices on sleeve stock.
For the cost, I think I'll just go with a little more displacement and a little more compression ratio. Thanks though.
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