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  • Originally posted by navdoc101 View Post
    Picked up 4 AR Estrellas with tires for $70. today. A little curb rash I'll get fixed. 2 good tires, 1 okay tire & 1 crap tire. I have 4 good tires on my car & 4 good tires in the shed, so not worring about tires. Did some cleanup today , used Purple power to degrease. I'm a happy man!!!
    13 or 14"?

    -James
    Est. 1989 "Bringing laughter and festiva awesomeness to the world since birth" banana time

    Comment


    • Originally posted by navdoc101 View Post
      Picked up 4 AR Estrellas with tires for $70. today. A little curb rash I'll get fixed. 2 good tires, 1 okay tire & 1 crap tire. I have 4 good tires on my car & 4 good tires in the shed, so not worring about tires. Did some cleanup today , used Purple power to degrease. I'm a happy man!!!
      I did mine with the lips silver And the rest Plastidip black


      -James
      Est. 1989 "Bringing laughter and festiva awesomeness to the world since birth" banana time

      Comment


      • !3". Do they have Gunmetal gray plastidip?
        If it don't fit, use a bigger hammer!


        '93 Green L - ' Tiva

        Comment


        • Finished the wiring for the cruise control system today. Cannot test it until I reinstall the whole wiring harness. The power for the cruise control was taken from a double wire connection to the green/white wire from the stop switch, through the lower to upper harness connector to the main cruise switch (left hand meter bezel) and then back to the Ford cruise computer. The green/red wire (for the operational light) was open barrel spliced at the existing factory splice in the upper harness in the middle of the meter (instrument cluster). The ground is through the black wire to the side of the body under the dash. It is combined with the ground from the power antenna switch + the ground from the cruise computer. All wiring looks completely stock and has the proper color codes.
          Last edited by bravekozak; 07-06-2013, 06:01 PM.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by navdoc101 View Post
            !3". Do they have Gunmetal gray plastidip?
            If I'm not mistaken from Dipyourcar.com you can get just about any color Plastidip

            -James
            Est. 1989 "Bringing laughter and festiva awesomeness to the world since birth" banana time

            Comment


            • Today I replaced the rear lap belts with sholder/lap belts in Trixie.
              Was fairly easy but I had to enlarge the back holes in the metal pieces that hold the lap belt to the side of the car, and also use the old lap belt bolts there.
              On my 90's and 92's the both holes are the same size but on the 89 the rear holes are larger and the front holes are smaller.
              The holes for attaching the retraction mechanism and the shoulder loop beside the rear window lever are the same.
              Had to drill holes in the molded plastic for the retraction mechanism but there were little circles on the inside showing where and how big to cut the holes.

              All in all a pretty easy job.

              Anyone need a nice set of rear lap belts? I'll post them in the FS forum.

              Comment


              • Installed what must be the first outer tie rod the auto's ever had new.. severely stuck in the knuckle, darn near welded to the inner tie rod. Took forever o_O.

                Also, any tips on getting the inner out without the $50 Harbor Freight tool? The inner is insanely easy to move up/down/over, but doesn't have any in/out movement. I bought new inner/outers for both sides, but the passenger outer was the most important.

                -Joe
                White '92 GL 5-speed BP, G series, Aspire/Rio swapped, "Nancy"
                White '89 LX 5-speed, Aspire swapped, Weber carb
                1988 LX 5-speed
                ​​​1993 L 5-speed B8, E series, Aspire/Rio swapped

                Gone:

                1986 Chevrolet Sprint 1990 L Plus Auto

                Comment


                • Drove it and thought Dang If I dont get to the work on this front end I'm in trouble lol. got major play in the steering. can't figure that 1 out. but I also need ball joints I believe.

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by Spike View Post
                    Installed what must be the first outer tie rod the auto's ever had new.. severely stuck in the knuckle, darn near welded to the inner tie rod. Took forever o_O.

                    Also, any tips on getting the inner out without the $50 Harbor Freight tool? The inner is insanely easy to move up/down/over, but doesn't have any in/out movement. I bought new inner/outers for both sides, but the passenger outer was the most important.

                    -Joe
                    I did mine without any special tools
                    Buck.
                    -1993 Ford Festiva GL, ~200k, B6, Aspire rear, Rio front, 5-speed. '87 Prelude alloys. Happy to be back on the route!!!
                    -1999 Toyota Sienna XLE, 346,000
                    -1996 Chevrolet K1500 Z71, 350 V8, 198k, hauler

                    Comment


                    • Got my replacement mirror glass in the mail, and got that put in.

                      Woo! No more trashy looking broken mirror!!!
                      1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
                      2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
                      1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

                      Comment


                      • I've been without my DD for almost a month and it's been nothing but setbacks since the beginning. Was just going do an oil change and found I was leaking oil all over the bottom of my car. So I decided to do my oil pan gasket and crank seal. While it was down I was going to do my struts and springs. Broke the rear strut bolt on the drivers side trying to unscrew it. Couldn't keep the flywheel from turning when I was trying to get the crank bolt off. I stripped the nuts on the front struts. Now I realized my oil pan gasket I just installed ripped I guess while installing. I broke the blade on my sawzall when I was trying to cut through the rear bolt I snapped and when reinstalling the the engine accessories I found out trying to get that dang timing belt tensioner spring on was probably one of the hardest things I've ever done!!! Finally had a good day yesterday though. Drivers side rear strut finally removed and front strut and spring installed. Tomorrow I'm hoping to finish all the struts and springs and then it's back to that darn oil pan.

                        How my car has looked for the last three weeks.


                        Broken blade! The hardest part about all this is I haven't had a vehicle to make runs to Lowe's or the parts store!


                        Finally got the strut out after cutting through the bolt. I had to cut a piece of the rear beam off the very back so I could get in there at the nut. How structure is that little piece in the rear?


                        I felt so good about finally having something go right I chucked my old strut into my front yard!


                        Front strut and spring installed.


                        Oh and while I had the front struts out I wire wheeled the top and bottom of the mounting points as well as the strut brace plates and painted them all with rustoleum.
                        -Rafe-

                        Things I have for sale.
                        Random Festiva Parts
                        Festiva Non-Swoopy Power Drivers Mirror

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by Spike View Post
                          Installed what must be the first outer tie rod the auto's ever had new.. severely stuck in the knuckle, darn near welded to the inner tie rod. Took forever o_O.

                          Also, any tips on getting the inner out without the $50 Harbor Freight tool? The inner is insanely easy to move up/down/over, but doesn't have any in/out movement. I bought new inner/outers for both sides, but the passenger outer was the most important.

                          -Joe
                          Huge pair of channel locks with some good teeth, or a big visegrip. Don't do it jacked up. Try And get the car on ramps or something really sturdy So you can get underneath of it And crank.
                          Oh, BTW that harbor freight kit won't fit anyways. I tried it, then resorted to the redneck method. Reinstall should be easy. Just a 24mm spanner.

                          -James
                          Est. 1989 "Bringing laughter and festiva awesomeness to the world since birth" banana time

                          Comment


                          • Diggin' the purple springs
                            Barbie Car - '90 L-plus_2nd Gen SOHC B6+rear turbo @ 8 psi
                            Festycul - '9? 5spd_full roll cage, completely gutted, hydro g-series, B6T @ 15psi, rocketchip ecu,Willwood master cylinder, Mit. Galant VR-4 rotors, Hawk racing pads, capri knuckles, 323 LCA's, BrideLow Max seats, 5pt. harness, lexan windows, fuel cell, aluminum radiator, 323 coilovers
                            Elvis - '93 L 5spd_B3+T build in progress
                            WhiteGirl - '93 GL Immaculate shape, deciding what to build with it?

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by Prafeston View Post
                              I've been without my DD for almost a month and it's been nothing but setbacks since the beginning. Was just going do an oil change and found I was leaking oil all over the bottom of my car. So I decided to do my oil pan gasket and crank seal. While it was down I was going to do my struts and springs. Broke the rear strut bolt on the drivers side trying to unscrew it. Couldn't keep the flywheel from turning when I was trying to get the crank bolt off. I stripped the nuts on the front struts. Now I realized my oil pan gasket I just installed ripped I guess while installing. I broke the blade on my sawzall when I was trying to cut through the rear bolt I snapped and when reinstalling the the engine accessories I found out trying to get that dang timing belt tensioner spring on was probably one of the hardest things I've ever done!!! Finally had a good day yesterday though. Drivers side rear strut finally removed and front strut and spring installed. Tomorrow I'm hoping to finish all the struts and springs and then it's back to that darn oil pan.

                              How my car has looked for the last three weeks.


                              Broken blade! The hardest part about all this is I haven't had a vehicle to make runs to Lowe's or the parts store!


                              Finally got the strut out after cutting through the bolt. I had to cut a piece of the rear beam off the very back so I could get in there at the nut. How structure is that little piece in the rear?


                              I felt so good about finally having something go right I chucked my old strut into my front yard!


                              Front strut and spring installed.


                              Oh and while I had the front struts out I wire wheeled the top and bottom of the mounting points as well as the strut brace plates and painted them all with rustoleum.
                              Told ya the sawzall was the way.

                              -James
                              Est. 1989 "Bringing laughter and festiva awesomeness to the world since birth" banana time

                              Comment


                              • Thanks! They are FMS lowering springs that I bought very used and had dennis(gauge) powdercoat them.

                                -Rafe-

                                Things I have for sale.
                                Random Festiva Parts
                                Festiva Non-Swoopy Power Drivers Mirror

                                Comment

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