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What have you done to your Festiva today!?
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Originally posted by Ford Fester View PostGot exhaust put on jr. Found out I made 22k more than last year. Almost cleared 60k. Not bad for a diesel tech 3 years out of school.
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Originally posted by 91blufestiva View PostSo you're not dropping the car off somewhere? haha I think I'm confused
Then he will drive me back home in it.
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Got exhaust put on jr. Found out I made 22k more than last year. Almost cleared 60k. Not bad for a diesel tech 3 years out of school.
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I take it your a High School student. Have someone help you, its easy to do these rear brakes.
No, you don't have to replace the bearings.But you should repack them with fresh grease. But if you ordered new, thats even better.
The most important thing to remember is that one of the nuts on the spindles is REVERSED THREADS!And only do one side at a time. Then you can use the other side for a Chinese Blueprint. Make sure your helper knows this in advance.
As far as "Freeing Up" the E-Brake cable so it works like "NEW" again? That can prove a little more difficult. But you should be able to get it free enough so it doesn't bind. Just don't adjust the adjuster so tight.That when you pull e-brake handle.It becomes so tight you risk breaking rusty cable or pulling cable right through the swagged fittings.
Thanks Heaps,
Kellen
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So you're not dropping the car off somewhere? haha I think I'm confused
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Almost. Stopping in to Joseph's. He's going to tap and helicoil the block where the ac bracket mounts, and do an inner tie rod. I'm meeting him at Danny's, I have wheels for Danny and Joseph has a VERY special car for Danny! Then I give Joseph a ride back to his place. It's going to be a FUN weekend!!!!
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I worked on cream puff a little more to get her ready to deliver. Changed the oil, spark plugs. Installed rear festiva struts and springs (had aspire struts with front festiva springs cut by 2 coils to clear the 15"s), installed a 3 outlet 12 volt supply in the upper console cubby, reattached the door panel skin to the card on the lower rear corner, striped the rear bumper.
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Dont panic dude its fairly easy
Originally posted by kellen302 View PostRegarding my little freakout there, I will order bearings, quantity 2 Timkens from Rockauto, that way no matter what is a "SET" I will get all I need, IF I replace any bearings, it will probably just be the outers due to lack of shop time, I will probably replace the rear brake shoes while I'm in there unfreezing the ebrake pivots. The FSM doesn't say I need to remove any bearings to do the brakes, but the Haynes says I do, I will err on the safe side.Originally posted by kellen302 View Post^^ I'm now thoroughly confuzzled, for doing my rear brakes is it necessary that I do the bearings, they do not make any noise, also It appears that I have to take the outer bearing off to take off the drum off to check brakes, if someone could just PM me a rundown on what is necessary to do to get inside the drum and free up the ebrake and probs replace shoes that'd be sweet, also if someone could gimme a link to the parts that I'll need, on Rockauto it's not clear if the Timken bearing is both inner and outer, or just outer or has a seal or if I need the seal,
Wow that was a lot, thanks heaps
Kellen
No, you don't have to replace the bearings.But you should repack them with fresh grease. But if you ordered new, thats even better.
The most important thing to remember is that one of the nuts on the spindles is REVERSED THREADS!And only do one side at a time. Then you can use the other side for a Chinese Blueprint. Make sure your helper knows this in advance.
As far as "Freeing Up" the E-Brake cable so it works like "NEW" again? That can prove a little more difficult. But you should be able to get it free enough so it doesn't bind. Just don't adjust the adjuster so tight.That when you pull e-brake handle.It becomes so tight you risk breaking rusty cable or pulling cable right through the swagged fittings.Last edited by nitrofarm; 01-26-2012, 10:07 PM.
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All you have to do is remove the nut/cotter pin and just slide the drum off with the bearings in it. A tip, I use both thumbs against the washer as I pull it off as to not drop the outter bearing and washer strait to the ground. If there quiet, I would just plan on buying new inner seals and cleaning the old grease out of the bearing and repacking with clean new bearing grease, only if the grease looks broke down. If you can tell what color the grease was when first used, it probably still ok.
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Regarding my little freakout there, I will order bearings, quantity 2 Timkens from Rockauto, that way no matter what is a "SET" I will get all I need, IF I replace any bearings, it will probably just be the outers due to lack of shop time, I will probably replace the rear brake shoes while I'm in there unfreezing the ebrake pivots. The FSM doesn't say I need to remove any bearings to do the brakes, but the Haynes says I do, I will err on the safe side.
Leave a comment:
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^^ I'm now thoroughly confuzzled, for doing my rear brakes is it necessary that I do the bearings, they do not make any noise, also It appears that I have to take the outer bearing off to take off the drum off to check brakes, if someone could just PM me a rundown on what is necessary to do to get inside the drum and free up the ebrake and probs replace shoes that'd be sweet, also if someone could gimme a link to the parts that I'll need, on Rockauto it's not clear if the Timken bearing is both inner and outer, or just outer or has a seal or if I need the seal,
Wow that was a lot, thanks heaps
Kellen
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