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  • Originally posted by Greywolf View Post
    especially on THESE roads:

    Hey Greywolf, nice video with nice music. Thanks for sharing with us.
    '88 Festiva LX 5 speed, A/C, Carb, restored $$$ body paint, badly wrecked @ 200k.
    '93 Festiva L, 5 speed, Aqua, bought from the original owner,.Zero rust but very nasty otherwise. Awaits the B6T.
    '91 Festiva L, 5 speed, bought to drive while putting the B6T in the '93. now B6ME powered.

    Comment


    • Did a volt drop test to find a goofy charging system problem,added a ground from engine to battery and ran a new lead from alt+ to battery +,all is good.
      Discovered another use for the garden sprayer a flush tee a fitting in the cap and a garden spray makes a great cooling system pressure tester{drll and tap it for a gauge, master cylinders don't like more than 10lbs, 15psi is the limit on cooling systems. So a modified 6$ garden sprayer, can be used as a pressure dispenser to fill transmissions and differentials,pressure bleed or flush brakes,pressure test cooling systems,prewash your engine bay with degreaser,spray anything you don't want to rust or rot with used motor oil,spray soap and water to sponge wash or find leaks in tires,check door and windshield seals,and they will spray diesel to help start a dead one, or degrease whatever. I am sure I've forgot a few. P.S. I don't put brake fluid in it when bleeding just when flushing,brake fluid absorbs moisture so anything left needs to be thrown out or put in a container you can fill to the top,flushing you know your going going to waste fluid,bleeding just keep topping up the master
      Can you guys give me your favorite tips for using the search function,I never can find what I am looking for. Thanks Anyone running anyone running a b6 like a 91 323 b6 please tell me your build and fuel milage,My 89 b3 kills my b6 car for fuel milage not sure if it is the build,the tune or just typical.
      Last edited by ricko1966; 09-23-2018, 12:21 PM.
      30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.

      Comment


      • I Sold one of them today......
        Jerry
        Team Lightning



        Owner of Team Lightning
        90 L "Peewee" B6D. Bought new May 16,1990
        92 L Thunder BP G5M-R Turbo B6T electronics. Jan 2016 FOTM winner SOLD
        93 L Lightning. BP



        Not a user of drugs or alcohol, Just addicted to Festiva's

        Comment


        • Maybe not so much today, but this month I've done a lot for my little rig. Newly rebuilt engine, new clutch, welded the flange back on the exhaust crossover, newer lower control arms, new boots on the steering gear, new front brakes and just tore the shocks and struts out. New ones should be in by the end of the week. In all about $2,000 in parts and machining labor. A lot of people have said I'm crazy, but where else can you get a car that gets 50 mpg for $2k? Paid $750 for it 6 years ago and put 70,000 miles on it already. So long as no one hits me now I figure I'm good for another 100-150k
          20180904_173639.jpg20180828_155016.jpg20180925_184820.jpg
          Last edited by Daveylikey; 09-26-2018, 09:41 PM.
          I paid $750 for it 5 years and 65,000 miles ago. It gets 50 miles a gallon. Tell me again about your Prius?

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          • Unscrewed a push rod tip from the junkyard.
            removed the rubber from the Tracer rod.
            Even though the Festiva tip can push inside the Tracer bore, it would not hurt to guarantee that it be centered.
            You can see the air groove in the rubber washer.
            I have to decide if I should weld an adjuster nut, lathe and thread the Tracer pushrod
            Or, weld a couple of rings on the Festiva tip to hold the Tracer rubber.

            Comment


            • Originally posted by Daveylikey View Post
              Maybe not so much today, but this month I've done a lot for my little rig. Newly rebuilt engine, new clutch, welded the flange back on the exhaust crossover, newer lower control arms, new boots on the steering gear, new front brakes and just tore the shocks and struts out. New ones should be in by the end of the week. In all about $2,000 in parts and machining labor. A lot of people have said I'm crazy, but where else can you get a car that gets 50 mpg for $2k? Paid $750 for it 6 years ago and put 70,000 miles on it already. So long as no one hits me now I figure I'm good for another 100-150k
              [ATTACH=CONFIG]22295[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]22296[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]22297[/ATTACH]
              Very nice! You have any trouble with your strut bearings? I ordered Mevotech bearings/mounts from Rock Auto. Tried to install this weekend; the RH side fit fine other than the bearing pilot (with flats) not fitting into the spring seat. I just cut it off since it really wouldn't serve much of a purpose after assembly. When I opened the second strut mount I could immediately see a difference although it was supposed to be the same part number. The strut bearing packaged with it wouldn't even fit inside it. Took a chance and ordered a cheap Monroe-closeout mount (arriving Thursday), hopefully it will match the first Mevotech.

              About what I've done lately, very similar to yours. New tank, pump, struts and mounts, brakes, hoses, bearings, seals, LH rear spindle, junkyard tires (75% tread). Striving to finish this strut, new steering gear, tie-rod ends this weekend. Getting all this out of the way before I do the fun stuff (engine and trans rebuild).
              Last edited by auburnperson; 10-01-2018, 12:15 PM. Reason: Meant to include quote

              Comment


              • Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
                Welcome Herm.
                What's that strange white stuff all over the ground in the picture?
                Are you in Germany?
                Please post a picture of your dash with the clock installed.
                Thanks.
                Hello bro. I'm sorry its too late to answer. I had a travel out of country and then forget my password!
                White stuff are just Snow (and my car shining because it was parked in garage!)
                In continue i will put some pic of dash and exterior.



                Note: my last post was in page 964
                https://fordfestiva.com/forums/showt...today!/page964
                ============

                NEW clock installed!

                As you know, Dashboard backlights in festiva are Green. Clock light,Gage cluster,Climate controls all back lights are green (Like ford crown victoria). so i decide to change lights to Yellow! (Amber) lets see:

                Before changing Dash backlights)


                So i changed all backlights with replacing Green SMD's with Yellow ones.Like this:


                Note: This type of SMD (LED's) was used for lighting. I bought same model but in yellow color:


                Then Digital clock was a problem! because all of other light sources are SMD but clock is a "seven segment vacuum fluorescent display" which cant change light color.


                Finally i found a similar clock in market that uses SMD for lighting! But in green! however, no problem digits are smd and can change them like other stuff! so it doneeeee!
                This is it:


                FINALLY its new view of dash lights at night:


                (I even changed audio player LCD back color!! so now all backlights are mixed in Yellow and Red!)

                At the end there is some photo and info of my Festiva for bravekozak :
                Exterior :







                Model year : 2011
                Type : sedan SL
                Features : Power steering, power window, power lock, AC, ABS.

                Comment


                • Well not today, but yesterday the shifter fell through the floor saturday night jad to use the car sunday A.M. and all day got through part of the day just yanking it back up every now and then but ended the day with a plastic drinking cup with a hole drilled in the bottom slid down the stick 35 and a 1/2 wraps of electrical tape forming a ledge to keep the stick from sliding through the cup. Very ghetto but works and hopefull will until the snow stops and melts so I can fix it right. Just for fun the drill and a step bit were in the hatch, the cup was on the pass side floorboard and the tape was laying in the median at a stop light. What are the odds on that?Shoulda bought a lottery ticket imiediately afterwards.
                  Last edited by ricko1966; 11-12-2018, 08:36 PM.
                  30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.

                  Comment


                  • Okay it's still cold and snowy. I have to fix this thing right,on my back in the snow. I want to be under and back out in the least time possible. I have my replacement shifter in hand what is the fastest easiest way to remove the shift coupler bolt as If I remember right they are kind of a pain to get to and if I recall right I need two 12mm combination wrenches. Just checking to see if someone has done one more recently than me and has better recollection because I'm hoping to just lay in the snow for two minutes.Go inside warm up change clothes and pull the shifter inside the car after I am warm and dry. t
                    Originally posted by ricko1966 View Post
                    Well not today, but yesterday the shifter fell through the floor saturday night jad to use the car sunday A.M. and all day got through part of the day just yanking it back up every now and then but ended the day with a plastic drinking cup with a hole drilled in the bottom slid down the stick 35 and a 1/2 wraps of electrical tape forming a ledge to keep the stick from sliding through the cup. Very ghetto but works and hopefull will until the snow stops and melts so I can fix it right. Just for fun the drill and a step bit were in the hatch, the cup was on the pass side floorboard and the tape was laying in the median at a stop light. What are the odds on that?Shoulda bought a lottery ticket imiediately afterwards.
                    30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.

                    Comment


                    • You need to do the window weld fix for the fallen shifter I think- is your replacement shifter OE or a short shifter- I think even if you replace the shifter lever and bushings you still need to fill the area between the circles- and window weld works well- search the forums for it

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by harpon View Post
                        You need to do the window weld fix for the fallen shifter I think- is your replacement shifter OE or a short shifter- I think even if you replace the shifter lever and bushings you still need to fill the area between the circles- and window weld works well- search the forums for it
                        Oh, hadn't thought he meant just the shift lever. Your right if his rubber bond failed, but it's too cold there to fix that in the car.
                        Ricko, you'll need to drop the whole assembly and take it indoors to fix, and that will take some time (fixing the rubber, taking the assembly out of the car is fast)
                        2 12mm spanners for the sholder bolt and a 14 for the nut on the steady rod bush.
                        Inside the car are 4 10mm nuts that hold the assembly into the chassis (plus the 2 small plastic tabs, try not to break them, they hold the unit in till you can get the nuts on the studs)
                        The whole works drops straight down after the exhaust pipe is out!
                        I have had luck unhooking all the exhaust rubbers and disconnecting at the olive gland, the pipe can be shifted enough to get the shift assembly buy.
                        Last edited by Dragonhealer; 11-14-2018, 04:16 PM.
                        No car too fast !

                        Comment


                        • Thank you .Already did it this morning yea I knew about the 10mm inside the car was just trying to remember the bottom side, I forgot about about the 14 and had to crawl back out.For what its worth I have removed 4 of these now and installed 3, 1 that I repaired and 2 that were parts car take outs I have figured out that if you push the whole assembly forward then pull it to the drivers side then straight back it comes out without doing anything to the exhaust Also discovered today that if the first bolt you put back in is the coupler bolt you can reach over the convertor with your left hand to hold the 12mm nut then bolt up your support rod.
                          Originally posted by Dragonhealer View Post
                          Oh, hadn't thought he meant just the shift lever. Your right if his rubber bond failed, but it's too cold there to fix that in the car.
                          Ricko, you'll need to drop the whole assembly and take it indoors to fix, and that will take some time (fixing the rubber, taking the assembly out of the car is fast)
                          2 12mm spanners for the sholder bolt and a 14 for the nut on the steady rod bush.
                          Inside the car are 4 10mm nuts that hold the assembly into the chassis (plus the 2 small plastic tabs, try not to break them, they hold the unit in till you can get the nuts on the studs)
                          The whole works drops straight down after the exhaust pipe is out!
                          I have had luck unhooking all the exhaust rubbers and disconnecting at the olive gland, the pipe can be shifted enough to get the shift assembly buy.
                          30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.

                          Comment


                          • Already replaced with good used unit. The last 1 i fixed at midnight cause it broke at midnight and I needed the car in the morning, I put it up the drill press used 2 small bolts 4 washer and 2 nuts was driving again 30min later if I ever have to remove it from that car I'll take a pic. Cause I myself don't remember how I did it but it made sense at the time and 3 years later it's still in the car. Great now it will break.I may do the window weld on the one I took out just to have a spare. Thanks. iUOTE=harpon;759596]You need to do the window weld fix for the fallen shifter I think- is your replacement shifter OE or a short shifter- I think even if you replace the shifter lever and bushings you still need to fill the area between the circles- and window weld works well- search the forums for it[/QUOTE]
                            30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.

                            Comment


                            • Thanks on the removal tip re: exhaust !!!
                              No car too fast !

                              Comment


                              • https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=...9aACCDk&adurl=

                                those springs are header collector springs for a vw header. They are using tension springs attached to tabs. I used two today to fix my leaky head pipe. Used a radiator hose clamp to attach them at the head pipe pulled them tight and hooked them to the convertor flange.If I hadn't had them laying around I think I could have used brake return springs. I like this set up and think I am going to try using it all slip joint connections instead of clamps which crush the pipe making it impossible to remove in the future.

                                Replaced my 3rd festy rack last week,I think I've learned some shortcuts but want to make sure. As you all know I suck at using the search engine . Ryann please point me at the rack installs so I can read them before a post a redundant install post. Thanks. Also figured out how to relocate the spring perches but that a story for another day.
                                Last edited by ricko1966; 11-14-2018, 04:58 PM.
                                30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.

                                Comment

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